nocking hell...

robbo

New member
having gone from shooting pretty well and feeling confident, my last few sessions have been the opposite. I just couldn't get any grouping going shooting a portsmouth, arrows were going left and right scoring 6's and 7's. I know my loose can be a bit dodgy sometimes so I was really concentrating on my whole technique, which just seemed to make it worse as I was tensing up too much.

Went shooting with numpty today and as it was bit rough outside we decided to shoot another portsmouth, sure enough the trend continued, maybe one or two nines but mainly in the red with no apparent grouping. Started to make a note of the arrows that were most offline to see if it was the same culprits each time, it was. Passed a comment to numpty about the problem and after watching my arrows leave the bow they had a definate left/right kick to them. AAHH he said confidently, took an arrow in hand looked down the nock to see if it was inline with the cock fletching, it wasn't.

checked them all and sure enough they were all slightly out of alignment. We turned them all to the correct position and I banged in a 57 end and it was pleasure to see the arrows fly in a straight line.

I really don't know why I didn't think of checking them before :bang: , they will now get checked on a regular basis. So thank you numpty, I owe you one.
 

numpty

Active member
Cheers Robbo. I'm Glad I was able to help and it's working out. Youve just goto check it every now and again. Not everytime you shoot.
Numpty :jaw-dropp :jaw-dropp :jaw-dropp :jaw-dropp
 

joetapley

New member
Nocks wear, get loose and then start rotating.
Bit of plumbers teflon tape wrapped round insert is standard solution.
 

wingate_52

Active member
My nocks seem to be climbing on the string. Solution, new strings as they were exhibiting wear. I use thread and superglue but was thinking of using heat shrink tubing as the nocking points. Does the Beiter 2 piece nocking points fit over the serving and still fit a No.1 0.088 nock?
 

wingate_52

Active member
Went to the Beiter site. The Beiter nocking points are put onto an unserved string and the servings are then installed on either side to hold them in position and to bulk up the string under the fingers or tab.
 

whisky

Supporter
Supporter
Wingate - when I shot recurve I always used to use the Beiter nock points. They are a bit fiddly to set up but well worth the effort when done. If you buy your strings just take the serving off, you can then serve the nock point in with something decent like Angel
 

LineCutter

Active member
joetapley said:
Nocks wear, get loose and then start rotating.
Bit of plumbers teflon tape wrapped round insert is standard solution.
This can be a bit variable in weight added. The quickest fix is to take the nock out of the shaft & bite it gently. The resulting oval shape will fit snug in the shaft.

Added bonus - most of us carry the required kit to shoots :fight:
 

Bald Eagle

New member
Sorry folks, but you should never "bite your nocks". They don't wear out, it's the serving that gets thinner, always use a serving that suits your nock size. If they rotate in the shaft a small length of dental floss or cling film will keep them in place. I make loads of strings for archers, compound and recurve and use serving to suit the nock they are using. As for Beiter nock points, make your string, hang a bucket of water on the end of it for 3 days (with the twists in) and then serve the centre with the nock point. Works every time! D75 I find gives hardly any creep, S1 is the best!
 

Rik

Supporter
Supporter
LineCutter said:
This can be a bit variable in weight added. The quickest fix is to take the nock out of the shaft & bite it gently. The resulting oval shape will fit snug in the shaft.

Added bonus - most of us carry the required kit to shoots :fight:
:rotfl:
Sorry... but have you ever tried to weigh the amount of PTFE tape it takes to snug up a nock? You're talking tiny fractions of a percent of the shaft weight on even the lightest shafts.

That said, biting the shank is an interesting approach - sounds like it might be a good "quick and dirty" fix. I'm not sure what it would do to the longevity of the nock, though. Or how well it would work on solid shank nocks (X10 in/outs, for example).

Another approach I use is to "paint" the shank with one of my shaft marking pens. Twist the nock into place after it dries and it generally provides enough friction to hold in place.
 
T

TimCroot

Guest
As Joe says the PTFE tape method is good,

I lay the tape across the top of the shaft and push the nock down into the shaft taking the tape with it. trim the excess off just before the nock seats or afterwards.

I have been told a blade of grass will do in quick fix way!!!
 

Dooky

New member
robbo said:
I really don't know why I didn't think of checking them before :bang: , they will now get checked on a regular basis. So thank you numpty, I owe you one.
To make the checking easier, I've draw a lit line on my shaft that lines up with the mould seam on the nock. Therefore no squinting down the shaft, adjusting, squinting, adjusting....
 

robbo

New member
how about hairspray???

sounds daft I know but we use it in the fitness industry to hold on the hand grips on certain types of machines. We spray it into the rubber grip and onto the metal tube, this lubricates it all to make it easier to push on. Then, after a few minutes the hairspray dries off and goes all sticky. It's amazing how long this can last to hold the grips in place. I always keep a can of harmony hairspray in the van for just such a job. Can be tricky explaining to mrs robbo what i've been doing though :fight:

This might also work for holding the nocks in place, with the added bonus of pretty much zero extra weight.

I'll give it a go and let you know the outcome. (you should be able to smell when i'm back online :) )
 

LineCutter

Active member
Bald Eagle said:
Sorry folks, but you should never "bite your nocks". They don't wear out, it's the serving that gets thinner, always use a serving that suits your nock size.
You're biting the wrong end :)

Hang on, I've got an idea... biter nocks. Should sell on the basis of ...err... easy customisation & tuning.

As for the weight thing - I suspect that it doesn't matter much, I've been told to do it without tape (& can't remember the exact reason or it's validity now).

FWIW it works fine with Beiter nocks, so any in-out nock with a visible internal component should be fine.
 
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