Samick tell you which way to turn, but no mention on limits or anything like that. I should add that this is for a Mizar, in case anyone has any experience with them!Max said:Yep! Basically that's it. Undo any locking screws, screw the limb bolts in for more weight and out for less. Observe the manufacturers recommended minimum settings for the limb bolts though (PSE recommend a minimum number or turns, Hoyt give you a diagram of where the mushroom heads ought not to be, etc, etc.
This is right at the beginner level, where these sort of things haven't really been dealt with in any case - the bow is pretty much as it arrived, and Samick say that's with everything set half way to provide a decent middle groundMax said:Then comes the slightly more tricky bit. Check the tiller settings, check and test the knocking point, check the stability of your sight picture as you draw up - does it want to dip or climb? - if so back to tiller adjustment again).
I may well end up doing that, but I was hoping to do it pretty shortly and am not going to be at the club until next weekend.Max said:If you have not done it before, try to talk to someone who has at your club.
Looking at Samick's web site the Mizar looks like it does use use the main bolt for limb alignment. Trick (assuming the limbs are already aligned) is to put alignment marks on the bolt base aligned with the riser body as and where appropriate. Then if winding the main bolt up/down just bring the marks back into alignment. This will bring the bow back within tweak of perfect alignment very quickly.My guess is that Samick have a similar system in use on all their bows
Ok Merlin - my advice to you would be to leave the riser alone and shoot it as it is initially. The weight adjustment will only give you a small amount of latitude anyway (I am making an assumption here that you might want to take some of the weight out of the bow?). Your riser and limb combination might only give you a positive weight adjustment anyway (like my PSE which supposedly comes with the limb bolts set at the minimum weight setting and my WinEX limbs which are weight rated at the lowest adjustment setting also. At best your combination might get only a couple of pounds either way.Merlin83b said:I may well end up doing that, but I was hoping to do it pretty shortly and am not going to be at the club until next weekend.
Not quite that simple, joe.joetapley said:Looking at Samick's web site the Mizar looks like it does use use the main bolt for limb alignment. Trick (assuming the limbs are already aligned) is to put alignment marks on the bolt base aligned with the riser body as and where appropriate. Then if winding the main bolt up/down just bring the marks back into alignment. This will bring the bow back within tweak of perfect alignment very quickly.
Ah - OK Merlin, now I understand the problem. Typically, a lady will need a bow in the 32 - 36lb draw weight range to be comfortable. My guess is that your Agulla is probably 38 - 40lb? Often we macho males also make the same mistake and buy a heavier bow than we are really comfortable with - there is nothing more likely to scrw up any chance of developing good form and good groups, than an overweight bow. Depending on her size, she might also be better off with a slightly shorter limb - maybe a 66"?Merlin83b said:This isn't for me, Max. I'm getting along fine with my Agulla. My other half is finding the bow very hard to draw and the theory we've developed is that it's simply too heavy for her. We'll probably have a chat about it down at the club when someone more experienced than I can watch and see what's happening.
I would say go with that - as previously stated nothing messes up your form more than trying to shoot a bow thats too heavy - time and practice will bring her to the heavier limbs if she finds she needs them later - until then get the good form in hand and enjoy !Merlin83b said:I'm happy to take advice but I think the way to progress will be to get some limbs at around 26lb and put the 30lb limbs away to be grown into.