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Discuss Arrow length and plunger placement in a riser at the Recurve Bow within Archery Interchange UK Forums; Hi Archers, I have two major questions to You. 1. My new riser (INNO CXT) ...
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    Arrow Arrow length and plunger placement in a riser

    Hi Archers,

    I have two major questions to You.

    1. My new riser (INNO CXT) has two holes for mounting plunger. The holes are in line. Which one should i use and what does it change? Currently the hole placed in to the target side i use as a holder for arrow riser while the hole placed on the archer/string side i have plunger. Will this replacement have any effect on arrow tuning ?

    2. I got to the point where my draw length is not going to change. That's why i would like to cut the arrows(ACEs) so they are perfectly matched to me and bow. The question is what is the precisse cutting i should do? Should the arrows point come with contact with the plunger at maximum draw length ? (ACEs point is quite long so there is still some space for clicker area).
    (I understand i will need to tune the arrows after that.)


    I guess the answer on question 1 will affect answer on question 2:

    Thanks for Your help.


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    Single holes are usually above the throat of the grip. An extra hole might help with mounting some rests that fit on the outside of the riser using a bolt.
    If the difference was worth extra points in the target, I guess all risers would have two.

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    The hole closest to you is for the plunger, the one furthest away ( nearer the back of the riser ) is to mount wrap around rests.

    As for cutting arrows, these need to be fine with somebody who has an arrow cutter ( such as the Easton ) and is competent in doing do and gas the expertise in doing so. The recommended length is 1 and 3/4 past the button which typically is about in line with the back of the bow.
    Darryl Ports 582, FITA18 563, FITA70 623

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    Darryl, I think there is a bit of confusion in there.
    Correct arrow length is something that Easton use to help with their charts. 1 3/4" in front of the button is right, but that will be 1" beyond the riser not in line with the back.
    "Correct" arrow length is not necessarily the right, or best arrow length for an individual archer. Some, will cut the arrow to be as short as possible. Others will leave a little extra for safety so they don't accidentally pull the arrow over the rest.

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    Quote Originally Posted by McGregor80 View Post
    Hi Archers,

    I have two major questions to You.

    1. My new riser (INNO CXT) has two holes for mounting plunger. The holes are in line. Which one should i use and what does it change? Currently the hole placed in to the target side i use as a holder for arrow riser while the hole placed on the archer/string side i have plunger. Will this replacement have any effect on arrow tuning ?

    2. I got to the point where my draw length is not going to change. That's why i would like to cut the arrows(ACEs) so they are perfectly matched to me and bow. The question is what is the precisse cutting i should do? Should the arrows point come with contact with the plunger at maximum draw length ? (ACEs point is quite long so there is still some space for clicker area).
    (I understand i will need to tune the arrows after that.)


    I guess the answer on question 1 will affect answer on question 2:

    Thanks for Your help.
    The bushing vertically in line with the grip is the one intended for the pressure button. The second button (further away from the archer) really serves no useful purpose. It was introduced by Hoyt to allow a stiffer arrow to be used. One of the main determinants of the "stiffness" of an arrow is the distance from the nock to the button at full draw. The larger this distance the weaker the arrow. It was never intended to be used for installing beginners wrap around rests.

    Arrow length is not critical - there's no "optimum value". If an arrow is too long it becomes unforgiving to the archer. Usual rule of thumb is the end of the arrow shaft (not point) does not stick in out front of the riser body. That's about it really.
    Joe

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    Quote Originally Posted by geoffretired View Post
    Darryl, I think there is a bit of confusion in there.
    Correct arrow length is something that Easton use to help with their charts. 1 3/4" in front of the button is right, but that will be 1" beyond the riser not in line with the back.
    "Correct" arrow length is not necessarily the right, or best arrow length for an individual archer. Some, will cut the arrow to be as short as possible. Others will leave a little extra for safety so they don't accidentally pull the arrow over the rest.
    Geoff, on the CXT if the button is installed as per the hole closest to the archer (one directly above pivot) then this is 1 and 3/4 inches from center of button to the back of the riser, as it's exactly where my clicker is set on my bow. Secondly I just measured the distance



    Joe, that's interesting as I've never come across anything that mentions that it's for varying the stiffness of the arrow by moving plunger location to be further away from the nocking point. The only thing that I've encountered is that it's used for wrap around rests. Do you have any documentation on the second hole and it's uses (that wasn't meant to be a smutty pun).

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    Hi Darryl. Thanks for that. I'm glad you sorted that for me,too.I have often wondered about some of the "standards" used in archery and this is one that seems "flexible".

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    Quote Originally Posted by geoffretired View Post
    Hi Darryl. Thanks for that. I'm glad you sorted that for me,too.I have often wondered about some of the "standards" used in archery and this is one that seems "flexible".
    Achieving as close to 1 and 3/4 from the button/rest is there for safety so that you don't draw off the rest and so that the arrow is at the optimum length. Having said that I wonder how many of the top archers who are settled in their draw length go past this 1 and 3/4 guide and have it closer to the rest?

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    I think the 1.75 is for broadheads on hunting arrows, pull those to far and it's a form of self surgery.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Darryl View Post


    Joe, that's interesting as I've never come across anything that mentions that it's for varying the stiffness of the arrow by moving plunger location to be further away from the nocking point. The only thing that I've encountered is that it's used for wrap around rests. Do you have any documentation on the second hole and it's uses (that wasn't meant to be a smutty pun).
    Oooerr missis!

    If you have a read of Rick McKinney's book, ("The Simple Art of Winning"), you will find some information there. Definitely used in the way Joe described - to effectively weaken the arrow a little. I think Mr McKinney used this a lot - many of the photos (of Rick's gear) show the plunger in the furthest hole...
    JFDI

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    Quote Originally Posted by geoffretired View Post
    Darryl, I think there is a bit of confusion in there.
    Correct arrow length is something that Easton use to help with their charts. 1 3/4" in front of the button is right, but that will be 1" beyond the riser not in line with the back.
    "Correct" arrow length is not necessarily the right, or best arrow length for an individual archer. Some, will cut the arrow to be as short as possible. Others will leave a little extra for safety so they don't accidentally pull the arrow over the rest.
    Geoff I think you're mixing up a couple of things. The 1 3/4" comes from the AMO standards for measuring draw length. Easton recommend (in the Tuning Guide) arrow length an inch beyond the most forward part of the arrow rest for target. They're two different things, I suspect.
    JFDI

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    I can appreciate that the forward hole could be used to weaken the arrows. Having said that, that doesn't mean the designers put in a second hole for that purpose.
    Weight adjustment on recurves; is that there to allow the user some choice of draw weight according to their fitness level at any particular time;or is it to match arrows more closely to the bow rather than buying different arrows? Someone did it for a reason; perhaps later another use was found for it.

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    Hi hooktonboy, Yes, I am confusing two things.1.75" for draw length and I believe draw weight is done at 28" again from string to 1.75" beyond the button or throat.
    I was a bit confused by the arrow being 1.75 " in front of the button and still in line with the far side of the riser.( in Darryl's post) I didn't think that was typical.
    Thanks again for the help.

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    Quote Originally Posted by geoffretired View Post
    I can appreciate that the forward hole could be used to weaken the arrows. Having said that, that doesn't mean the designers put in a second hole for that purpose.
    Weight adjustment on recurves; is that there to allow the user some choice of draw weight according to their fitness level at any particular time;or is it to match arrows more closely to the bow rather than buying different arrows? Someone did it for a reason; perhaps later another use was found for it.
    This is a link to an interesting thread elsewhere

    OK, whats the 2nd plunger hole for?
    JFDI

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    Quote Originally Posted by geoffretired View Post
    I think the 1.75 is for broadheads on hunting arrows, pull those to far and it's a form of self surgery.

    This is whati have heard for AMO draw length,

    Thoughi did also read or see somewhere the sencond hole is perfect for fitting your sight knob in to protect your rest when travelling
    Portsmouth PB 15-09-10 was 579 now 587

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