Button Tuning

radsbow

New member
I use the Tuning for Tens method all the time. I think it works very well indeed. However, I don't actually do the paper tuning part. I think for a finger shooter its not that consistent - I revert back to bareshaft tuning for that section of the tuning guide.</p>

I find once I have completed the stiff plunger tuning, that when I?get to do the walkback tuning I'm pretty much on the mark. So don't realy have to mess much after that.?</p>

I generally do the walkback tuning starting off at 50 or 60 yards - with 5 yard intervals - although, for some reason to do with physics I presume, I have start off at 15 or 20 yards because starting off at 5 yards from the target, then moving to 10 the arrows group together - no help :)</p>

Have you had a look at JoeTapley's pages - there is a wealth of info on different tuning methods....http://homepage.ntlworld.com/joetapley/</p>
 

celticjedi

New member
Thanks, I'm planning to give it a go this afternoon and was also planning to skip the paper tune bit too as a)I'm also too inconsistent and b)dont have any un-fletched shafts atm.

Have seen Joe's site, very interesting but this seemed a bit more straightforward, albeit that I was a little suspiscious of the 3/4" match technique! :)
 

Barry C

New member
I don't, I am one of those people that is not a big believer in the information paper tuning can give a recurve shooter. The arrow is flexing all the way to the target so you will probably never get a straight tear.</p>

To be honest I don't really bother too much about tuning. As long as my arrows is flying well and groups ok I just leave it alone. Maybe to my own detriment but I'm lazy :)</p>
 
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