First bow advice

XoSo

New member
Hi Everyone

I am a novice, just coming to the end of a six week beginners course and enjoying the sport tremendously. I am looking at options to buy my first bow but not in any rush as I will continue to use the club bows for a while. I'd like to get my own though fairly soon because although I use the same bow each week I generally find someone else has used it and changed the sights etc. I am left eye dominant and so using a LH bow at the moment so will probably continue to do that although the bow I am using is probably slightly under-powered at 22lbs (I am a six foot male, although 56 years old so not as strong as some but even so feel I should be using something a little more powerful?). I think with my arm span I should be looking at a 68" bow.

I don't know whether its the best route to take but my thoughts were to spend more on the riser and less on the limbs as I will probably be needing to uprate the poundage of the limbs quite often until I find my ideal weight. I'm fortunate to be able to uindulge myself a little bit but at the same time I don't want to go overboard and look like the guy with 'all the gear but no idea' so I set myself a budget of ?400 for the basic bow

Looking on Merlin Archery's website and speaking to them a little via email I have put together some components that would come in at this budget and would appreciate any thoughts on this setup:


Win & Win Rapido Riser ?210
Mybo Synergy Limbs (not the carbon ones) ?99
Reign Recurve Bowstring ?17.95
Spigarelli Recurve Rest ?9.58
Shibuya DX Gold Tip Button ?21.74
Joomong Scorpion Sight ?22.96
Soma Fivics Sight Pin ?15.16

By my calculation that lot comes to about ?396. Two things I'm really not sure enough are the button, because we don't use those on the club bows (are they necessary) and the sight pin (assume if you buy a sight they don't come with pins included?).

Anyway, would appreciate any advise you guys can give. Having been a member of guitar forums for years I know that if I get ten replies I will get ten different recommendations but that's all good - I can learn from differing opinions. The only response that I won't really find that helpful is "go to an archery shop and try out various makes" - I fully intend to do exactly that but Merlin can only get the riser in as a special order so I have to commit to that beforehand if thats the route I'm going down and its helpful to go forearmed with knowledge about the component I'm considering or knowledge of alternatives.

Thanks in advance

PS The one thing I forgot to ask was what other accessories would you consider essential - case, bow stand? And arrows have me completely confused- some advise on those would be greatly appreciated
 

frustratatosk

New member
More rounded advice on the way I'm sure... But from.my own experience,
The Decut button (about ?20 if I remember right) is V good and indexed - adjustable on the fly rather than getting the Allen keys out.
I've got the Mybo synergy limbs (long) and very happy with them.
Gotta have a bow stand!
Arrows - depends on a lot of things, draw length, poundage, how much you want to spend :)
There's nothing much wrong with most aluminium arrows to get going (if the length and spine are approximatly right)
Good luck
Rick
 

Bertybobby

New member
Quiver, stringer, arrows, bow stand....

SF forged plus is a good riser. I can recommend the Avalon Tec One sight. Sights nearly always come with a pin. The Tec One does.

Yes, you will need a button. A cheaper one will do you for a while, while your form settles.

Arrows XX75s - decent quality and price. Set of 8 needed to cover shooting 6s outdoors, about ?70.
 

Bertybobby

New member
Arrows - ask at your club to measure your draw length, advise what poundage you want to shoot, and they will help you fathom length and spine.
 

Corax67

Well-known member
Most of the guys at our club have bought SF Forged + risers after their beginners courses - it has the advantage of coming complete with a magnetic arrow rest and a button.

They also tend towards Stringflex strings which are cheaper (a tenner) and extremely hard wearing.

You cannot go wrong with a set of Easton XX75 Platinum Plus as your arrow choice but you'll need to get measured for those - budget around ?60 for 8.

I don't know how good the sight is but it will certainly come with a sight pin fitted.

Add a bow stand and tab & you are in business.


Happy shooting




Karl
 

Alison

New member
Also a quiver, bow stringer, arm guard. I bought an intermediate SF kit when I started 3 years ago. Whole kit for about ?350, including a long rod.
 

fbirder

Member
Riser: I agree with those suggesting the SF Forged+. A darned good riser that will last you a couple of years at least.

Button: The Shibuya is an excellent choice. You spend a while setting your button to suit your arrows, then you never change it again (unless you change arrows - and I prefer to have a different Shibuya button for different arrows).

Tab, quiver, stand, stringer, as advised by others. I'd also consider a chest guard.
 

Bobc

Member
Just as an exercise I put myself in the position of a raw beginner and looked at the minimum I could get away with equipment wise to "learn archery".
If I was starting out now.. and I wanted the kit to build experience on.. I think this is where I'd be.

Cartel Fantom Recurve Riser - 25" ?75
SF Premium Recurve Limbs - 66 30# ?56
Hoyt super rest ?0.95 x3
Fivics-Soma LVT Stabilizer with Dampener $18
SF Axiom Sight ?20
SF Forged Pressure Button ?11
Aco Hockii Tab ?9
shoelace finger sling ?1
Cartel CR-4 Arm Guard ?2
Avalon Classic Quiver ?7
Cartel Plate Magnetic Clicker ?8
No chest guard


Bow sling Mybo Stringer ?6
Cartel RX-103 (Standard) Bow Stand ?7
Easton T Gauge ?7




club should have fletching jig and arrow cutter so Learn to build arrows
arrows 2014 xx75 (given 30 inch draw) x12 ?36
Bohning 1.5" Shield X Vanes ?8
Easton G-Nock - Small Groove x20 ?7
superglue ?1
Easton Nib3b - 2014 x12 ?10
Bohning Ferr-L-Tite Hot-Melt (orange) ?2


club should have string jig:Learn to make strings
BCY B55 Dacron - 1/4lb ?7
BCY #400 Nylon Serving ?4
Cartel Serving Tool '2' ?4

Total = ?308
 

ThomVis

Active member
At every beginners course we run when it's time to talk equipment the same questions pop up. "What do I need?", "What should I buy?", "Is [make/model] any good?", "But that one's cheaper!".

We measure their draw length and recommend a draw weight range and advise them to go to one of the brick&mortar shops and let the shop personnel guide them. This is the email I send them (Dutch text removed) as a guideline what they should bring back.
We also point them at the second hand market, with a strong recommendation to email an instructor the link of the ad and have him/her scan over it before they commit.

ThomVis said:
<-----<< <-----<< <-----<< >>-----> >>-----> >>----->

The list of things to get for an Olympic recurve bow. If you shoot barebow you can skip or change things (fingertab), but you can still use the list as a guide.
Know your own drawlength and drawweight, whats printed on the limbs is not what you eventually draw.

<-----<< <-----<< <-----<< >>-----> >>-----> >>----->

- Riser (middenstuk):
A good one, that will last you a while: Sebastien Flute (SF) Forged+
Cheaper options are the SF Premium, SF Premium+, Core Spark or Mybo Rio. Talk to the guys in the shop and if you can't decide, shoot it and choose the one that feels best.

- Limbs (latten/werparmen):
SF Axiom is the cheapest option, and not that bad, you'll probably be upgrading within a year, whatever you're buying now.
SF Premiums or anything they recommend that isn't too expensive will do too.

- String (pees):
It's on the list cause you need one. Fast Flight will do, don't get a dacron one or the more modern materials.

- Button/plunger:
Get one. SF Forged+ new comes with button and arrow rest. Lots of options, get a cheaper one. For barebow you want one where you can easily adjust springtension.

- Arrow rest (pijlsteun):
See button. Don't get the cheapest plastic stick on ones.

- Sight (vizier):
Anything they recommend is probably fine, as long as it's not a cheap plastic one.

- Arrows (pijlen):
I recommend aluminum, Easton XX75 Platinum Plus or Easton X7 Eclipse. They will let you shoot some to determine the right ones. Carbon arrow are better for longer distances, but they get damaged easier. Carbon shards/dust is dangerous.

- Quiver (pijlentas):
Preferably with separate belt, whatever you like. These can last you a while.

- Chest protector (borstbeschermer):
Fit it and buy one you like.

- Finger sling:
A shoelace or some paracord (see movie below). Or you can buy one ready made at the shop. Do not get a bowsling.

- Arm protector (armbeschermer):
Whatever you like, but get one!

- Finger tab:
The right finger tab is a very personal thing. I recommend the Fivics Saker 1, but it has a pointy thing on it to keep your hand straight, the Saker 2 doesn't. Some people loath the pointy thing and can't shoot with it, I have one with it and I don't notice it anymore. My recommendation would be the 1, but you have been warned (http://www.fivics.com/fivics2013/product/product_fingertap_23.html).
But see which feels good, the tab should be a little smaller than your hand.

- Bowstand (Boogstandaard):
Get a low one, not a high one. Other than that, anything that keeps your bow off the floor will do, you choose.

- Bow stringer (spankoord):
Get one. Personally I'm not a big fan of the tip-tip versions, so I recommend a tip-limb one.

- Backpack or case (Rugtas/koffer):
Something to transport your bow in. A backpack version is nicer if you cycle or walk to the club.

- Stabilizer:
Get a longrod. For now you can get the cheapest, and you don't need a full system with v-bars and all, but if you do decide on it, do get an extender with it.

- Arrow puller (pijlentrekker):
Any will do. Might not need it right away, but you will some day, unannounced.

- Bowsquare (peeshaak/booghaak):
String tools : SF BOW SQUARE.
Preferably that specific SF one. No plastic one.

These are the things that are probably replaced soon:
- Limbs
- Arrows
The rest can last you a while, and you could consider to buy a better (more expensive) part. All depends on you eagerness and budget, but you won't shoot better with it.
 

Bobc

Member
yep pretty much where I'd be with a couple of exceptions:

0]- Arrow rest(pijlsteun):
See button. Don't get the cheapest plastic stick on ones. Tell that to half the Korean team and Khatuna Lorig ;)
1]Dacron.. When you're learning how to make strings you make a lot ( more than ten) before you get it right. Hence cheap materials because there is a lot of wastage
2] Riser: Here I differ- I bought an SF Forged +..it is a very good riser but expensive. When you start you really cant tell the difference. After around 50,000 arrows I knew it wasn't the riser for me despite having a Jaeger grip (which I still use on an Inno max). The cartel has all the holes is good to 42 pounds draw and once youve shot a lot of arrows..you dont feel bad about upgrading.
3]Arrow puller for arrows shot with 30 pound bow...no ;)..better to build strength to pull them by hand ;)
4] As you say... looking to upgrade arrows and limbs next.... ?100 for 38 pound limbs (cheapest ILF) and correctly spined xx75s. With the upgrade you can shoot >500 on a 720 round easy..
5] Obviously I'm a "use the clickjer from day one" fan

The above set up should make you competative on all indoor rounds and Frostbites (80cm target at 30m). If you use a target at 50m..your sight will be at the bottom and allow you to deveop your form throughout the complete range of motion..
 

ThomVis

Active member
0] Arrow rest is always a debate. There is nothing wrong with the plastic ones, once you know where and how to stick it on precisely. Beginners can change their arrows a lot. Having an adjustable rest makes it easier to switch, instead of trying to remove the stick on plastic one in one piece, search for double-sided-tape and try to get it back in the right spot. YMMV.
1] We're talking beginners here, so shop bought strings. Different bows take different string, and we talk about that. Generally for an ILF rig you can't go wrong with FF. String making is jumping a few chapters ahead.
2] Most general comment made "I want a riser that can last me a while". There are no rubbish risers as far as I know, so they can buy anything they want. It's just that the SF Forged+ is a very popular riser, and comes with button and rest. For the ladies we tell them about the Mybo Rio being lightweight.
3] Or save your strength for shooting instead of pulling arrows. Our lanes are not covered, so with a little rain the arrows tend to get slippery. And of course the occasional arrow in the frame case.
4] So you agree?
5] When they are drawing and lining up correctly, yes. Before that, focusing on drawing through the clicker is more of a hinder to good form IMHO. Most tend to buy a clicker right away.
 

Bobc

Member
Hey Thomas..we mostly agree.. probably philosophical differences more than anything..I do see many beginners wanting a riser that will last...paying a lot then quitting. Shops I have some reservations with now. I have seen too many beginners come back from shops with well setup bows that cost them ?1000... this is way too much and I think that's its more valuable to learn how to set up bows with cheap kit and get some understanding of the thing. The other thing is that these shop setup bows do fall out of setup... and the poor guy has no idea how to fix it.. Story of one guy I know who checked his brace height..found it changed then did a 60 mile round trip to the shop- to get them to put twists in the string...

I was "fortunate" in getting minor injury six months into my journey and was reduced to 500 arrows a week with a light bow. In the spare time I learnt to make strings. I personally found the insight string making gave me into recurve archery as a whole to be very very valuable. It isnt that hard and Youtube has some really good videos! The more you know your bow - the more you love it..

Clickers...the debate will rage.. The magnetic clicker I suggest is good for messing around with different arrow lengths and is easier to pick up with peripheral vision.
 

4d4m

Active member
"Reduced to 500 arrows a week"... and had spare time to learn string making!

I've not counted them but I go to the club two or three times a week, feel like I'm shooting quite a lot, but probably shooting in the region of 200-300 arrows per week. What is this "spare time" of which you speak? I'm guessing you didn't have a young family. ;)

Back on topic, I'm pretty happy with the kit I bought last October as a beginner, with the possible exception of arrows which were under-spine and borderline too short when I got them, and properly too short in five months. This was the SF Forged+ riser, SF Elite limbs, stick-on Hoyt plastic rest.
I've learnt arrow building since October after upgrading the arrows but there's no way I would have been ready for string making back then. Having to learn to make your own string before you can shoot your shiny new bow seems like a good way to put people off. Plus I don't believe our club has a string making jig. We've only just purchased an arrow saw.
 

XoSo

New member
Thanks to all of you who took time out to reply and offer advice. I've also spoken to a few people at my club and decided on my bow. I have placed the order with Merlin today so hopefully should be able to pick it up in a couple of weeks (the riser is special order). This is the configuration I've gone for:

Win&Win Rapido riser (carbon black)

Mybo Synergy Air Limbs

Reign Recurve Bowstring

Shibuya Magnetic Rest

Shibuya DX Gold Tip Button

Shibuya Dual Click sight

In the end I needed to raise my budget a little but this still comes in at about ?480 so I'm only a little over and my business has been doing well recently so I thought I could treat myself. I reckon I've got some pretty decent components on that bow which will last me a good couple of years which is quite remarkable really. Spend less than ?500 on most sports and you still only get the real cheap end of the product ranges available (think golf for one). The main item that bust the budget was the sight. I considered all of the options suggested alongside my original choice but reading reviews on them all there was always someone who had a niggle with them breaking or coming loose. Sloppy engineering annoys the hell out of me so I thought it was worth spending the extra for something that would be rock solid (couldn't find a bad review about the the Shibuya). I've still got to buy things like arrows, rest, quiver and case but I'm pretty chuffed to have got the bow sorted. The only thing I'm not sure about now is what poundage to get the limbs. Currently the training bow I use at the club is 18lb but they have suggested going for 28lb. I will seek advice in the shop when I pick up the bow but does 28lb sound about right or is that a bit of a leap from 18lb?
 

Bertybobby

New member
If you have a short draw length that should be OK. Will take a bit of getting used too, but after a few weeks you will settle into the increased poundage.
 

XoSo

New member
I think my draw length is 29" but thats probably fairly average rather than short isn't it? Should I go for lighter poundage?
 

Corax67

Well-known member
You need to try those 28lb limbs for a while - a 10lb jump in poundage is a fair old step even if the start point is quite low. 29" draw is not short, mine is only 28" which seems pretty average for the guys I shoot with weekly as short is around the 25-26" mark.


Karl
 

4d4m

Active member
I see no need to drop lower than 28lb unless you have an injury or are particularly slight build. I'm 6'3", on the heavy side but have an office job and don't do any regular exercise apart from archery. I went for 30lb long limbs straight away and I have a longer draw: initially 31.5", pulling 36 lb. I had no problem with this apart from tiring after an hour or two of shooting but within 5 months had wound them up and was drawing more with 41 on the fingers and can now pull these all day.
 

ThomVis

Active member
If you worry about the 28# limbs better settle on 26#. Or if you think you can handle them after some training, limit the amount of arrows you're shooting in the first weeks. 2 instead of 3 an end, 4 instead of 6 and end, and stop when you're getting tired and/or your groups open up.
 

JohnK

Well-known member
26 to 28lbs on the fingers is probably okay, although without watching you shoot it's impossible to be sure.

And always, *always* learn on a light bow. Many people are capable of shooting with a high 30s/low 40s bow not long after starting out, and can even become pretty competent. However, it is much more difficult for them to learn good form from the start. Been there, done that, got the t-shirt :)
 
Top