Problems Problems Problems

archangel86

New member
Hello guys I think you all would be rather familiar with me now.

So far I have tired various tuning methods to tune my bow to reduce it from vibrating like crazy everytime I release it. It seems like theres no proper way to tune it. The arrow still doesn;t have a straight flight out of my bow etc etc.

I am now considering moving a few poundages up and hence I'm going to buy new limbs. Would it be a good idea to tune the bow now and buy new limbs or tune the bow while buying the new limbs? I feel like going up to a shop to buy a new set of limbs and ask them to help me out with my bow at the same time. I read somewhere someone stating that there was a place I could purchase limbs and exchange them for another set with heavier poundages. Does anyone know anything about this?

Also another thing, I was told that drawing to the side of my lips is not ideal as I'm not drawing a proper straight line if I draw the string back to the center of the lips. Is this the cause of my arrow going wonky on the way to the target if so what can be done? I find drawing to the center of my lips gives me less power and I already cant hit the target at 80 yards.

hehe and another thing, would it be ideal to get Cartel triples? or ACC or Navigators? Cartel fits my tight student budget nicely but I've done loads of research and I am pretty worried that I might get the wrong spine since their shaft selection chart's not spot-on accurate unlike Easton's.

Would it also be necessary to get a set of arrows for indoors?

I know I sound like I'm going to spend loads thats why I'm asking for help, as I plan to get a set that I would use consistenly instead of consistanly upgrading my equipment.
 

Little Miss Purple

The American
Fonz Awardee
Ironman
American Shoot
I'm a newbie myself so I may stand corrected!!!

I am now considering moving a few poundages up and hence I'm going to buy new limbs. Would it be a good idea to tune the bow now and buy new limbs or tune the bow while buying the new limbs?
The new limbs need to be tuned to the bow for good alignment etc - I would expect any good shop to do this as part of their service (maybe we get spoiled at Aardvark!).

I was told that drawing to the side of my lips is not ideal as I'm not drawing a proper straight line if I draw the string back to the center of the lips

I believe it is recommended to find a reference point under your chin - this will also help you to reach 80 yards.

hehe and another thing, would it be ideal to get Cartel triples? or ACC or Navigators? Cartel fits my tight student budget nicely but I've done loads of research and I am pretty worried that I might get the wrong spine since their shaft selection chart's not spot-on accurate unlike Easton's
I have ACC's - buy the best you can afford! :beer:

I hope some of this helps!!
 

jerryRTD

Well-known member
Download the Easton tuning guide read it and then do the bear shaft tuning to get the arrows flying straight. This type of tuning will not make the bow quieter or vibrate. Make sure everthing is tight then look to your stabs and dampers.Just what is the bow doing? what type of sling do you use wrist or finger? If you are just holding the bow without a sling then it may well feel as if the bow is jumping around when you loose. There wil be a certain amount of vibration in the limbs after the arrow is loosed and that is only to be expected.
 
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Rik

Supporter
Supporter
archangel86 said:
Would it be a good idea to tune the bow now and buy new limbs or tune the bow while buying the new limbs? I feel like going up to a shop to buy a new set of limbs and ask them to help me out with my bow at the same time.
If you tune then buy new limbs, you'll have to start tuning all over again... The tune is specific to a particular setup. Even apparently minor stuff, like changing a string, or altering the weights on stabilisers, can throw it off.
Asking a shop to help you set up your new kit sounds like a good idea. It might be an idea to give them advance warning though.
archangel86 said:
I read somewhere someone stating that there was a place I could purchase limbs and exchange them for another set with heavier poundages. Does anyone know anything about this?
I think you're referring to Stylist. They're a UK bow mfr. The only trouble is that they don't make Hoyt fitting limbs, so you'd need to get a whole new bow. I haven't got a link to their site, but I'm sure someone around here has...
archangel86 said:
Also another thing, I was told that drawing to the side of my lips is not ideal as I'm not drawing a proper straight line if I draw the string back to the center of the lips.
Not true. Sometimes a side anchor is the only way to get a good line. It depends on the body structure. A side anchor can be more difficult to get consistently right, though. Unfortunately, there is a certain sub-section of the population who believe you can't get consistency without a front of face reference.
archangel86 said:
Is this the cause of my arrow going wonky on the way to the target if so what can be done?
No. That's to do with your arrow match and tuning, if it happens all the time. Making sure your arrows match your bow, and are properly set up for it, will help.

archangel86 said:
hehe and another thing, would it be ideal to get Cartel triples? or ACC or Navigators? Cartel fits my tight student budget nicely but I've done loads of research and I am pretty worried that I might get the wrong spine since their shaft selection chart's not spot-on accurate unlike Easton's.

Would it also be necessary to get a set of arrows for indoors?
In reverse order. I wouldn't bother getting a separate set of arrows for indoors. Some people will say 'fat arrows will get you more points' but any benefit is marginal at best. Most archers won't notice the odd point or so they might gain, and many would lose points through using arrows which aren't ideal for their setup...

The trick with Cartels seems to be to take experienced advice. If you can find someone who shoots them with something close to your setup, that might help your selection.
There was a thread on comparing Triples and Easton shafts here.
 

geoffretired

Supporter
Supporter
Problems sometimes come in batches, they are cheaper that way?!
Sometimes a problem shows itself in different ways and we think there are several when there's only one. The bow may need setting up or it could be the way you are using it. I would spend no money until you find out which is the cause of the vibrations. Are the vibrations very rapid like buzzing or slower like a wobble? Slow wobbles can often be related to tiller so that would be a good starting place. Rapid buzzing vibrations often get heard rather than felt unless you grip the bow.
 

wingate_52

Active member
Sort out the vibrations. There is something loose somewhere. String your bow(there are twists in your string?) check brace height. Make sure arrow rest is in the correct position. Is the button secure. With no extra equipment fitted shoot your arrows. any improvement to the vibration problem. Add one piece of equipment at a time and test.
 

Bald Eagle

New member
It sounds to me that your arrow spine is way too stiff, unless you have a 30"draw. Start at basic bow set up, weigh yor bow at your reference point and check your arrow length and spine, then check tiller, bracing height, button etc. etc.
 

Flandyman

New member
archangel86 said:
The arrow still doesn;t have a straight flight out of my bow etc etc.
So far lots of good advice, but worth mentioning - your release will also cause the arrow to 'corkscrew' to the target - be careful that you dont change kit when it is a form issue - most likely it is form and kit tuning. I think it has already been said but dont spend money until you have isolated the fault it is too easy to replace bits with an expectation it will help but it does not and you get more depressed, your form goes down and it is a self defeating spiral - are you in a club ?? if so grab a coach/senior archer ( most are only too happy to help if asked ) and ask them to check your form and look at the tune, they should be able to help.
 

tel

Active member
Fonz Awardee
archangel86 said:
...would it be ideal to get Cartel triples? or ACC or Navigators? Cartel fits my tight student budget nicely but I've done loads of research and I am pretty worried that I might get the wrong spine since their shaft selection chart's not spot-on accurate unlike Easton's.
On this point of the several raised - "spot-on accurate unlike Easton's" ? - says who? Trawl the threads on this and point me to a definitive yes/no as far as arrow selection is concerned!

Reference point - it's what suits you. A good coach may point you in the right direction, but again it's not 'black & white' - no point in forcing a position that you are never going to be comfortable with.

Limbs? We both know you need the limbs to match the riser ;) - then, and only then, tune away....
 

archangel86

New member
Wow thanks everyone for the prompt replies and great advices. It a great thing to take a break form studying and reading everything that's just been posted.

I think I'm slightly misunderstood here. I'm not buying new limbs to get rid of the problem. I'm seriously considering buying new limbs because I find that the draw weight is too low for me. Besides that I've tired drawing higher poundages and find no problem with it. I was just thinknig whether it was worth the effort to tune the bow first before getting new limbs. :)

Yeap senior archers have looked at my style of shooting and comented that there's nothing worng with my shooting form. Although I do have to admit that I do hunch a little. And the arrows start to drop when I sub conciously hunch :shy:

The vibration is both actually its very loud and the bow wobbles/vibrates about badly for about 5-6 seconds after the shot is taken. Nothing is lose really its the string thats loud. There are about 20 twisit in my string currently.

Yep everyone finds my bow weird.

Cool I will be scouting around the AUIK fourum to look for people who have similar setup and cartel Triples too.

Tel, haha yeah I am seriously considering those SHC limbs, but I'm torn between them and the Winex. Hehe depends on how much I can earn during the 4 months of summer holidays, I might be mad enough to go for the SF Sight and SF Quiver and SF Stabilisers hehehe. BTW I'm not sure if it was really Sebastien Flute, but I wrote to the SF and asked for a bow manual for tuning and the replied email was signed "Sebastien Flute" :D
 

jerryRTD

Well-known member
Yes it is worthwhile to tune the bow before you get the new limbs.You can practice and you will need to tune the bow again if you get new limbs.
 

Thunk

Well-known member
Ironman
Re the anchor position: I think achoring on the nose/centre of chin is the easiest to be consistent with. Most of the people I know who use a side anchor around the corner of the mouth wear glasses - the nose section of the frame gets in the way of the string picture if they anchor in the centre. But in reality, it's whatever works for you. The essential bit is that it is consistent.
 

Rik

Supporter
Supporter
archangel86 said:
...BTW I'm not sure if it was really Sebastien Flute, but I wrote to the SF and asked for a bow manual for tuning and the replied email was signed "Sebastien Flute" :D
Could well be. I've exchanged emails with Rick McKinney and GT before. Archery is a small enough world that even the 'famous' guys are willing to talk to the rest of us :). I had a nice little chat with Don Rabska about using a pair of binoculars as an ad-hoc 'super zoom' for a digital camera, while waiting for the doors to open on a Quicks seminar...
 

Random_guy

New member
I think all of SF's emails are signed 'sebastian flute', as i got the same when i emailed asking what size screws the riser took in the hole to attach the sight for a friend (the screws with his sx-10 didn't fit it, turns out they use imperial screws?!), so i'm guessing it's a general signiture, unless he answers all emails personally....
 

Rik

Supporter
Supporter
Random_guy said:
I think all of SF's emails are signed 'sebastian flute', as i got the same when i emailed asking what size screws the riser took in the hole to attach the sight for a friend (the screws with his sx-10 didn't fit it, turns out they use imperial screws?!), so i'm guessing it's a general signiture, unless he answers all emails personally....
Well, some archery companies are very small :)
 

Rik

Supporter
Supporter
JohnK said:
And others are far away. Small . . . far away. ;)

(Sorry - Father Ted was great) :D
"Ted, Ted! Can I shoot yet? Can I?"
"No Dougall. The man has to finish setting up the targets first..."
"DRINK! DRINK!"
"No Father Jack. Archery and drink don't mix, you'll have to wait."
"GIRLS?"...
 

Whitehart

Well-known member
Use your local pro shop

It sounds like you could have any number of problems (Bracing height, tiller, limb weights screws too far out, wrong length string/ not enough strands to name a few). I would go back to the pro shop you bought the kit from and ask for help. If you bought it over the internet and cannot visit them I would suggest speaking to your local pro shop to help you out, expect to pay for their time but it will save you a lot of messing around and they will also help out with advice on technique.
 

archangel86

New member
Here's an update on how my tuning has progressed.

After getting the the new limbs, things have started to quite down a little. There was less virbation and the noisy died down quite significantly.

Today I just acquired a new string since one of the club member was selling one. Fast flight its called. I could say now that the bow vibrates very very little and the feeling after firing a shot is great.

Bracing hight is in the recomended range as stated in the SF bow manual too.

Today the club's coach came to the training session. He gave me some insighful tips to improve my shooting and mentioned that there's nothing worng with my technique.

Now he gave me two things to ponder about. Firstly about alinging the string before shooting. Till today I have NEVER aligned the string at full draw with some part of the bow. I didn't know there were such things. He says that this should control the horizontal positions of where the arrows land. and I have to say that this does work...though for some strange reason my arrows are grouping at the right.

He also mentioned that getting ACE's now would actually do me no good as they are less forgiving. He suggested either X7's or ACC for they are less forgiving to a bad shot. I am now sort of thinking along those lines but rather thinking that those arrows are less forgiving to my pocket HAHAHAHA.

He also mentioned to me that using limb savers would dampen the vibration out of the bow. However the limb savers he showed me on his bow was rather interesting. They were warped around the limbs something like button on rather than the stick on ones you normally see.

Well can anyone give me an insight on their views of thelast 3 paragraphs above ?
 

geoffretired

Supporter
Supporter
Glad you have resolved the vibration problem.
String alignment is a bit like the back sight on a rifle. The sight is just in front of the eye. With a recurve, there is no back sight but with the string almost in front of the eye, it helps control the left to right shots. In the past, before you saw the string, it was probably to the right of your eye( out of sight)that would point the bow slightly to the left. Now that the string is nearer your eye, it has moved further to the left sending the arrows slightly right.
As to the limb savers, I think the glue on ones are more common(they are where I shoot) the ones you describe sound like they wrap round the limbs so perhaps they do not fit quite so firmly to the limbs.That could be a problem if they slide up or down.
I can't help with the arrows apart from saying the ACC's are good.I can't afford ACE's and have never shot them seriously.
I hope some of this helps
 
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