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Discuss Compound - finger shooting - what to look for when buying. at the Compound Bow within Archery Interchange UK Forums; As ever I'm itching to spend money and play with something different. I've been (mainly) ...
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    It's an X I've taken part in an AIUK American Shoot.I've taken part in an AIUK Ironman Shoot. hooktonboy's Avatar
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    Compound - finger shooting - what to look for when buying.

    As ever I'm itching to spend money and play with something different. I've been (mainly) a recurve shooter for a good while but I really fancy having a go at compound.

    In the past I've tried compound U/L - release, scope etc. To be honest it isn't for me as I really dislike feeling so "disconnected" from the shot. So, I think I would like to try compound off the fingers.

    On a relatively limited budget, what are the main things I should be looking for in a compound for shooting this way?

    I've heard that you need to look for bows with a relatively long ATA to get a suitable string angle. My recurve draw length is 26.25, so is a 39 - 40" ATA likely to be enough? What are the issues with let-off for finger shooting? Arrow rests - obviously different than for a release shooter but people seem to use so many different things from specific compound rests, to ZT rests with a pressure button?

    I'm pretty baffled, folks, and compound finger shooters appear to be pretty rare around our county - so any help you can offer (or indeed any good links) will be really, really welcomed.

    Thanks
    JFDI


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    Some advice I would give is:

    Look for the longest ATA possible which unless you can afford expensive bows may mean second hand. I would say the more over 40" you can get the better.

    Try the bow before buying it, on recurve you determine the draw length yourself. On a compound the bow determines it and draw length is critical because it will set your elbow into the right position to best apply back tension. Bear in mind compound draw lengths are generally specified to grip throat + 1.75".

    Also bear in mind if you have shot unlimited before that any draw length you were previously used to with a release will be different for fingers as the anchoring place is different and the fingers in front of the string effectively reduce the draw length a compared to fitting a loop.

    Re rests. Generally rests with lower support and side pressure are used for finger shooting not drop away because your finger rolling will impart a degree of side force which will need to be compensated for. I have seen some remarkably good finger shooters just using 6 springy rests. To see more finger shooters, go along to a field archery club where they are more in abundance.

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    It's an X Jerry Tee's Avatar
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    What to look for hummmm. Some people can shoot a shorter a to a bow say around 37" by dropping a finger off and loosing with two finger instead of three, it will depend on how long your draw lenght is. But for starters go for some thing around 40 inches. As an expreienced archer you draw lenght is not likely to change unless you change anchor, so a drawlenght specific to cam bow would not be out of the question. Mathews bows allow a half inch change.
    Some people prefer a agressive cam that will take the string away very quickly on loose, others like a smooth cam. I prefer the smooth option, either way you will need a 65% let off not 80.
    As for arrow rests a ZT will do fine. The Cartel tripple button has a fairly long barrel which you will need as the cut out on the riser of a compound will be greater than a recurve.
    Try what ever you can get your hands on Conquest, Ovation, Constitution maybe an Old Glory, Scepter, may be a Hoyt Pro 38, Bowtech Pro 40.
    just point,pull & squeeze the trigger

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    I went from 20 years of recurve to compound this year.

    I could not for the life of me shoot with a release aid so I shoot fingers, my bow is 35" ATA and I get no finger pinch at all (or not that I notice and I have hands like shovels) and I dont drop any fingers off. The only thing I really struggled with was getting used to not holding a lot of weight on my fingers because of the let off but a couple of weeks and it just comes naturally, I have been back to the recurve a couple of times but only shot a few arrows and thought nahhhhh back to the compound.

    Setting up the arrow rest was my only headache - but with help from Jerry and a couple of others its spot on now. I went for the cheaper option which is made by Hoyt (I'm led to believe) but comes under the brand name Reflex - the model is "SuperSlam", worked out around 260 which included an arrow rest and some basic sights to start off.

    I'm going to upgrade next year but its only because of the shiny stuff syndrome and not that I need to.

    I'm shooting around 570 Portsmouth's which I'm happy with for now.

  6. #5
    indy
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    hooktonboy, as a limited archer i have found my mathews conquest 3 ideal for me with the mini max cam, i also use the simple springy rest which i cut with just enough room for the arrow to sit on, the only problem you may find using a springy is that from time to time it might just whip off a fletching accasionaly, nap do a springy with a button fitted just inside the spring,think you may have to order from states if you wish to try one as i have never seen any for sale in the uk, getting back to the bow itself,a longer ata is the way to go,well for me personally,but i think most limited archers may tell you the same. the conquest 3 is a good price at the moment, got mine at clickers archery which the guy matched and beat other outlets in price.

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    It's an X Jerry Tee's Avatar
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    Indy is right about the minimax cam. I have a Rival Pro that uses the mini max as well an Oneida and it's not bad at all. A little harsher than the oneida but quite good.
    Next you have to decide how you want to shoot . There are two options, you can either shoot the bow like a compound with a peep and a reference or like a recurve with an under the chin anchor and no peep sight. The advantage of the under the chin anchor is that it gives you a lot of back sight elevation which gives a longer range.
    just point,pull & squeeze the trigger

  8. #7
    It's an X I've taken part in an AIUK American Shoot.I've taken part in an AIUK Ironman Shoot. hooktonboy's Avatar
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    ....what to look for

    Gentlemen,

    Your replies are very much appreciated and have removed a lot of the bafflement, I think.

    Budget wise I think I'm going to have to start out quite a bit lower down the budget range - gotta start somewhere. Might have a look at a Maxtry at 40-50 weight as they're 39.5" ATA, brace height near 7 1/2" and have the option of 65% let off. Hopefully the low holding weight will be Ok - I'm used to trying to find a good clean release on a recurve of around 26lb so I may be in with a chance

    Jerry, I'm hoping to shoot recurve style (under chin reference) as this is what I do most naturally these days - I'm definitely looking for more distance. As you can imagine 100yards is rarely a viable option with my recurve these days

    Thanks again for taking the trouble to reply. I'll post to let you know how I'm getting on - provided its not a disaster.
    JFDI

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    compound fingers

    I have found that the longer the a to a the better. I have shot as low as 34" with two fingers. The rests that seem to work the best are the same as the recurve. Flipper style, springy, etc.

    Currently I am shooting an older Hoyt Aspen, made in 2000. With the long Lx Pro limbs the axle length is 47", with a draw of 30" at 51#. The hardest part that I have found with compound fingers, no sights, is getting good arrow flight. If someone were to shoot my bow with a release it would not hit where aimed. I had to run my rest way to the inside of center to successfully walk- back tune.

    The bows that are available are all very different with different shooting characteristics. If you are able to shoot a variety of bows you will be better off making a decision.

    Good luck,
    Tim
    Come to the Dark side...we have cookies.

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