Discuss Help needed with an old compound bow .... at the Compound Bow within Archery Interchange Forums; Hi , I am hoping I can find someone who may be able to help ...
Help needed with an old compound bow ....
Hi , I am hoping I can find someone who may be able to help me out with some advice .
Long story short , I used to shoot recurve as a junior 20+ years ago with my dad and my brother (they shot recurve too) , my brother decided he wanted to try a compound , sold his recurve and bought a new Barnett international compound . Life went on , we all gave up archery due to school , work , getting married bla bla . Anyway , I started shooting again last September (recurve again - sorry !!) but my dad got the opportunity to buy my brothers old compound and did . He is just a recreational archer , the bow kind of had sentimental value as it was my brothers and he just shoots it now and again here at my place when he feels like shooting. The problem is that I have no idea if it is set up properly and my brother can't remember how to set it up either . The details on the label of the bow read :-
peak weight 50
draw length 29
draw lenght range 28-30
string length 38
So ... I have set up the bracing height slightly above level with the rest as you would a recurve but apart from that we are not too sure what to do to check it .
There is a plastic disc top and bottom on the cables with a crossed slot in it so you can put the cables in any one of the 4 slot ends labelled 1 to 4 . What are these for - changing the draw length or the poundage ?
Also with regard to the allen bolts that hold the limbs to the riser , are these to be tightened up as much as possible or do they provide some kind of adjustment like on my Hoyt recurve ?
We have replaced the string as we were not sure of the age of the one that was on it .
I just want to get it set up so that it shoots as well as a 20 year old compound should so my dad can enjoy it when he feels the urge to shoot
any and all advice would be much appreciated
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Yes,the little slotted disc's are draw length adjusters.
Originally Posted by britvette
The bolts in the limbs adjust poundage and they dont have to be wound all the way in.
Winding them out evenly top and bottom should reduce the poundage by about 2-3 lbs per turn.
DO NOT OVER DO IT AND DONT GO MORE THAN 4 TURNS FROM FULLY WOUND IN AS THE BOLT COULD COME OUT.
This is a old bow and before you do anything else I would change the string.
Also inspect the cables.
I think they were steel on this bow and the main weakness is where the teardrops hold the string.
If you can see metal cable showing between the teardrop and the plastic cover then change them as failure is waiting to happen.
Thanks for the quick reply , first think we did when he bought it was changed the string so that should be good .... yes it has steel cables - checked them out and no sign of wear and no steel visible anywhere - I really dont think this bow has shot very much since my brother sold it
The discs with the cross of slots(donuts) can adjust draw length.
I believe they make fine adjustments to the cam timing, too. If the cams go off time, one disc is rotated to a different position. That will make it better or worse. If worse, rotate it the other way.
I don't know what wheels are on that bow, but there may be slots in the string side of them. Often there are 3 but sometimes more.The cable will exit out of one of those slots, to the groove round the wheel. Draw length can be adjusted in larger chunks by changing the exit slot used. That requires the bow to be in a press.
Thanks for your reply ..... excuse my lack of knowledge but can you explain what you mean by the cams going off time ??? Not sure what you mean so I don't know if they are on or off time
Originally Posted by geoffretired
When the cams are off time, I mean not in a mirror image position with one another.In other words one of them looks as if it has already turned a little more than the opposite one. You can see this if you look at matching parts of the cams and how those parts align with something like part of the limb that is masking your view the cam. If they are well out of time, you will feel the difference when you get to full draw. There will be a little sort of bump in the draw as one cam reaches its draw limit and then another bump when thew later cam arrives at its limit. On some bows the bumps are not so easy to feel as they are gentle.Betterv to have a friend watching to see if they both contact a cable at the same instant.
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