Compound Bow Need a bow for recovering from a broken arm.

Simian

Supporter
Supporter
I broke my left (string) arm fairly badly last year and unsurprisingly had to stop shooting. Soon I should be allowed to start putting a bit more stress on it, so obviously I'm trying to work out what I can shoot.

I've got a fair bit muscle wastage, and even without that 6 months out of archery is going make it difficult hold my C4 steady, let alone pull 50lb or so. Also, I'll need to gradually increase the draw weight over the next year from a fairly low (maybe 20lb) starting point.

So what I think I need is a bow with a wide range of draw weights for whatever my draw length is now - it was 27.5" - and one that's not too heavy so I can hold it for an entire round.

I've had a look around, and the (deep breath) Bowtech Diamond Infinite Edge SP-1 looks like it might fit the bill. It'll go down to 18lb peak at 27", and up to 50-something, and it only weighs around 1.6Kg. The other advantage of the SP-1 is that it comes in left handed and it has 1/2 inch draw length adjustment.

Anyway, what I really want to know is: are there any better, preferably cheaper, bows out there that will do the job?


Cheers,

Simon.
 

geoffretired

Supporter
Supporter
What I did when I was recovering from a year out was to use cables that were 3/4" longer than standard. That reduced the weight by 15-20lbs.
Rather than buy or make new cables and go through the process of fitting them etc, I made two loops of bow string. I fitted one loop into the end loop of each cable, just like fitting elastic bands together to make a chain. I then fitted the loops over the pegs on each cam and let off the bow press.
The end result was a bow that was still in sync and a draw length almost unchanged. The longer cables allow the limbs to unbend, the equivalent of unwinding the limb bolts but without the dangers that would bring.
The loops of bowstring were just like making a short bowstring. I wind round a couple of nails about twenty times and tie the ends very securely. The ugly knots don't get in the way, so no need to bother about them.
I had a bow then, with the same draw profile and low weight. After the recovery I can remove the loops and put the bow cables back on their pegs and bingo.
In your situation you may want to go for 1" loops and unwind the limb bolts. Shoot a while then gradually wind down the bolts. When they reach max. unwind again and fit slightly shorter loops. Then repeat.
 

jerryRTD

Well-known member
I don't think that would on a single cam conquest 4 Geoff.
Aim Archery are3 selling a Bowtech Prisom 309 pounds It's a little slower than the Edge.
 

geoffretired

Supporter
Supporter
Heehee, I wondered who would be first to spot that deliberate mistake!!!!
Seriously, I hadn't factored in a single cam.
However, the point is, I was able to let the limbs appear to relax without unwinding the limb bolts beyond their safety margin.
With a single cam bow, the principle is the same. The method then becomes one where the string and cable are increased in length.
With the string being doubled over the top wheel, an increase of say 1" on the cable, requires 2" on the string.
That can be managed in two different ways. A 1" loop on each end will keep the nocking point in place.( more or less) A 2" loop on one end will be less work at that stage but require the nocking point to be re positioned.
The cost is almost zero, the advantage is you use your own bow, with its own draw profile.
 

jerryRTD

Well-known member
So that just leaves the C4's weight and a possible change in draw length. No better get a bow more suitable for the circumstances rather than risk the recovery.
 

geoffretired

Supporter
Supporter
Perhaps you are right. I wonder if the bow arm has been used for holding other items over the non shooting time. Might it be able to manage the mass weight? Possibly remove weights from the stabs.
 

Simian

Supporter
Supporter
However, the point is, I was able to let the limbs appear to relax without unwinding the limb bolts beyond their safety margin.
With a single cam bow, the principle is the same. The method then becomes one where the string and cable are increased in length.
With the string being doubled over the top wheel, an increase of say 1" on the cable, requires 2" on the string.
That can be managed in two different ways. A 1" loop on each end will keep the nocking point in place.( more or less) A 2" loop on one end will be less work at that stage but require the nocking point to be re positioned.
The cost is almost zero, the advantage is you use your own bow, with its own draw profile.
Cheers Geoff, unfortunately I think the chances of me doing that and ending up with a safe, straight shooting bow are pretty low. I've not even made a recurve string for a couple of years.

Also, the C4 is an unwieldy front heavy bow, something smaller and lighter will just be easier.
 

Z28

Member
Hi, I shoot an Infinite Edge as a "second" bow and find it very light in the hand but still very good quick bow to shoot. Good fun, with all the adjustability you could want.
 

Yew Selfbow

Active member
Don't buy a bow .... buy a couple of bags of rubber bands and form a chain. As your strength returns add another rubber band chain.
 

Simian

Supporter
Supporter
Don't buy a bow .... buy a couple of bags of rubber bands and form a chain. As your strength returns add another rubber band chain.
I've got stacks of stretchy bands - well, rolls of them, I guess - that I've been using for physio and also a bow trainer.

What I want to do now is shoot something.
 

Simian

Supporter
Supporter
Hi, I shoot an Infinite Edge as a "second" bow and find it very light in the hand but still very good quick bow to shoot. Good fun, with all the adjustability you could want.
"Second bow" - gotta love compounders. Although this will actually be the third bow I own, really should sell my old one. Anyway, thanks, I've ordered a Prism and they all seem to be based on the same bits so it should be similar.
 

Simian

Supporter
Supporter
Shot with the Prism for the first time this weekend. 15lb draw weight, some old W&W challenger arrows, and just enough weight up front (used a spare side rod) to stop it rolling backwards after the shot.

It's a bit weird shooting such a short ATA bow and even weirder being able to put the peep in without a bow press, but I can shoot a full Portsmouth without pain. Albeit 50 points below my scores from before the accident.

Cheers to everyone who offered advice - being back on the shooting line feels like a bit of normality has returned.
 
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