New Bow(Black Douglas)

atr

New member
Before I start with my questions I would like to say hello to all on the forum for all the information I have picked up over the last few months.Not being of the younger generation,I have had a strong leaning to give bowhunter class a go before I pop my clogs.
So question 1.- I have just bought Black Douglas from a club member and the details of the bow are as follows.
It is 66" with xp30 limbs @ 34#
The refernce number is 4086FL
I have been shooting x7 2014's from it.
My questions are
1.Is the draw weight suitable for field target?
2.Are the arrows I have been shooting suitable?
3.Could someone give me as much information as possible on the bow and limbs?
4.Have I jumped in at the deep end and should I have gone down a more economical route to start with?
P.S.Having seen a lot of bows over the years I have to say that I am extremely happy with the look and style of the bow itself.With the finger grooves and colouring it was what I thought would be the ideal bow for this style of shooting.
Last but not least,should I give feathers a go, because I would prefer to shoot off the shelf?.I am at present using plastics off a rest.
Long winded I know but any help and comments would be greatly appreciated.
Andy.
 

rusty craine

New member
I didn't notice that you stated what draw lenght you had. for a 28" draw I think the arrows might be a little stiff????

if your are shooting the BD barebow you likely will need to figure out an aiming system for the 80yd target. I don't think you can get to 80yds with your point on the target somewhere with an AL arrow.

if you would mention where your anchor point is and if you are loosing split finger or 3under, also what your draw lenght is some of the guys could give your a lot better idea of arrow spine and 80 yd hold.

rusty
 

rusty craine

New member
BTW - bow is very suitable of field. it will make a wonderful field bow. you just have to figure out your gaps if shooting bare bow. if you had the budget to couple the bow with some light weight carbon arrows it would make that 80 yds seem a little closer :)

rusty
 

atr

New member
Thanks Rusty.
Draw length-28"
Split finger.
Anchor point-eye tooth.
If I were to use carbons,what type - spine would you suggest I start with?.
The window is only about4".
Andy
 

rusty craine

New member
Andy - I am not a expert and can only go by what I get good results from. My draw is 28" also but I anchor on a back molar and down on jaw bone a litle lower than most. i have a 35# kit that is a pretty hot recurve. I get my best tune from a static spine in the .650 range. the 2014 has a static spine of 0.579" and would be a little stiff for me so i'd have to run the arrow longer. this make the longer range gapping a little harder if you are gapping of the point. with short sight windows I gapp off the point.

if the 690 redlines are not to pricey they will run more than a 100 gr lighter than a 2013 or 2014 lenght tuned for me to 35# draw. the 2013 @ 28" ready to shot weigh 380 gr (close). i don't have any 2014's. redlines give me another 20 yds (about) for point on. that is a good thing

of course all that is subject to how well my release is working. I can put a redline 690 right in front of the 80 yd be creeping a little :)

rusty
 

rusty craine

New member
i think you will really enjoy your Black Douglas. I have a 46# 62". 46# is right at what I can just handle for a 3 round field match. I got to work out a bit :)

rusty
 

atr

New member


Thanks again Rusty for your help.Here is a pic of my bow.It's the one on the right with the finger grooves.
I will try out the arrows you suggest at the club next week and take it from there.What a WALLY!That is a left handed bow,mine is right handed.
Andy.
 
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rusty craine

New member
let us know how things work out for you. I am always interested in how other archers get a tune on their bow. I learn every time :)

rusty
 

irbis

New member
Disclaimer: I am a 3d-shotter, and I am a happy owner of a black douglas.

1.Is the draw weight suitable for field target?
My experience is that I had to use heavier arrows than expected. By easton tables, I should be using 75gr, 2212 at my open. The bow opened as if it were softer than my draw weight, but the kind of arrow is like it had more poundage that measured -in fact, I am now using 125gr, w/strong helicoidal 5''. It is not the same a 34# on a 100$ bow than a 34# border bow.

2.Are the arrows I have been shooting suitable?
Best use whatever works best for you.


4.Have I jumped in at the deep end and should I have gone down a more economical route to start with?
I don't know how long have you have been shooting, but a border is for lifetime. The doubt if this would be your final poundage.

Last but not least,should I give feathers a go, because I would prefer to shoot off the shelf?.I am at present using plastics off a rest.
Sorry, I am instinctive shooter and use natural feather. And I am really happy with natural feathers, and I would not change them for plastics.
 

English Bowman

Well-known member
1.Is the draw weight suitable for field target?
2.Are the arrows I have been shooting suitable?
3.Could someone give me as much information as possible on the bow and limbs?
4.Have I jumped in at the deep end and should I have gone down a more economical route to start with?
5.Last but not least,should I give feathers a go, because I would prefer to shoot off the shelf?.I am at present using plastics off a rest.
1 Yes, depending on how you get on with the weight. You should shoot the heaviest bow you can shoot COMFORTABLY all day
2 Depends on the length as said above
3 I'll leave that one to Sid
4 Yes you have jumped in at the deep end, but why not, the bow will last a life time, and you can always stick new limbs on the riser
5 Why do you want to shoot from the shelf? An arrow rest is more forgiving in my opinion and I would always use one on a modern recurve bow. As for feathers, yes give them a go, they are great except when it rains.
 

atr

New member
Thank You Irbis and EB,I am very much a beginner compared with you guys but I'm learning all the time.Arrow selection, for me anyway,will be very much trial and error.It's good that the members of my club are so helpful and patient when it comes to this part of shooting because they let me try out different arrows.
EB,I want to shoot off the shelf because this will give me a bigger sight window,which in theory will help me come to a conclusion about which arrow will be best suited to my shooting.I also thought that there would be less influence from the riser if I used feathers.
I wait in painful anticipation for Sid's responce to my original post about the bow itself because I am absolutely delighted with it.I know I may have jumped in at the deep end now but I felt it was important to spend as much as I could on what I believed to be the best available(it made more sense,fiscally),than to try bows in a lower price range which I would invariably wish to upgrade at a later date.
Andy.
 

bkupris

Supporter
Supporter
American Shoot
AIUK Saviour
atr

IMHO if you are going to shoot off the shelf feathers are the only way to go...
 

irbis

New member
Thank You Irbis and EB,I am very much a beginner compared with you guys

I am not exactly a top rated archer, and I have shooted less than a year.

but I'm learning all the time.Arrow selection, for me anyway,will be very much trial and error.
I thought that truth was at easton tables, and I was said that truth was at easton tables. But I test the recommended shafts and point weights recommended by easton tables and... worked worst than beginners arrows.

Then I begun to make tests, and found what worked best for me.

So the best is that you keep in mind the least weight of the arrow by the bow manufacturer -that is really important to keep-, and use easton tables as a reference. But best to do lots of tests, and use whatever best fits for you.

EB,I want to shoot off the shelf because this will give me a bigger sight window,which in theory will help me come to a conclusion about which arrow will be best suited to my shooting.I also thought that there would be less influence from the riser if I used feathers.
I shoot better off the shelf and using high grip. I think that is related to the fact that I shoot purely instinctive, that allows the arrow keep the same line than the arm; and so far I know how to point with my finger without calculating distance, I know how to point with my arrow without calculating distance.

Natural feathers are perfect for me, but for a different reason. I have to stabilice a 31'' arrow. Natural feathers allows to put four 5'' helicoidal feathers without putting too much weight on the arrow. The arrows flight straigh 45 meters doing a cool sound, and fall between 45 and 50 meters abruptly, but under 35 meters -longest distance on 3D using spanish rules- works perfectly. Plastic ones are heavier and I should need a really heavy point to keep POV.


nful anticipation for Sid's responce to my original post about the bow itself because I am absolutely delighted with it.I know I may have jumped in at the deep end now but I felt it was important to spend as much as I could on what I believed to be the best available(it made more sense,fiscally),than to try bows in a lower price range which I would invariably wish to upgrade at a later date.
Andy.
You did it right. As i use more my border, I like it more.
 
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