Discuss My second attempt at making an Ash bow... failure... at the Bow Building within Archery Interchange Forums; Well after failing with AshBow1 i started on AshBow2...
Similar profile to my first attempt... ...
My second attempt at making an Ash bow... failure...
Well after failing with AshBow1 i started on AshBow2...
Similar profile to my first attempt... 24mm deep belly to back, 30mm wide and about 14mm at the tips, 76" long.
Wood was kiln dried ash turned through 90deg.
After my first attempt i was taking it much slower. Once i could pull the strind past brace height i started to shorten the string (Del thanks for the toggle tip, was working a treat).
I needed the stringer once the string was approx 1.5" shorter than the nocks and once on the tiller and pulling it a few times to warm it up i heard a horrid crack...
As you can see from the picture below a crack has appeared on the back about 10" from the nock!
So, what was i doing wrong?
I had taken it slow,
the brace height was being worked up slowly, went crack with a 4" brace height,
never exceeded 46#.
was starting to look good on the tiller.
I'm tempted to source some differnt wood and try a traditional ring chased chunk of Ash and not one turned through 90 deg, as this stuff seems a little 'brittle'.
I did put on some goggles, a chunky coat and some gloves and pulled her back to 14" to see if anything horrid happened... it didn't, so i'm considering carrying on regardless for practice... even tho i'm now scared it will blow... but i have gloves, goggles and a hard hat!
Still not deterred... but if number three fails my enthusiasm may wane!
Any thoughts or comments much appreciated.
Nah, that'll be alright...
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Thinking about it... i think i'm going to plane a couple of mm of the back - sacrifice draw weight for tiller practice and hopefully reduce the ferocity of the impending 'KAPOW' moment!
Nah, that'll be alright...
I'm suspecting the grain didn't run correctly in the board you chose. On the next board you select go for flat ringed grain (as you suggest), you can then chase it down to a single ring - this will give a back that will not lift a splinter as here. Edge ringed boardsa (yours) are harder to read and even with perfectly straight line on the ace of the board the fibers can still be 'stepped' through.
The best way to save this bow would be as you say remove wood from the back until you are back to sound wood and then back it with maple or ash. This is quite a tricky process as you will have to make the back of your bow PERFECTLY flat for a good glue line and have a good piece of maple or ash for the backing.
In the Blue
I make quite a few self ash bows for re-enactors all using kiln dried ash ive never had a problem with the grain 1/4 sawn, ash does like to be kept dry do you know what moisture the wood is the only way I could ever think ash would give out is being to moist. Also something to look for is white marks that can apear anywhere they will always crack like you have there.
If it had a high moisture content it would not break indeed it would be less likely to break - it would simply take more set. This has broken due to the wood fibers being cut through eg. the orientation of the board in the tree was not parallel to the surface of the tree.
In the Blue
Its 1/4 sawn like the backing of most bows, unless he has done that himself by accident with a plane it shouldn't have happened by its self
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