Bow choice (take down)?

52BIGSBY

Member
Hello all,
I tried a search on this and failed to come up with much, so apologies if this has already been covered and thanks for any links to previous threads.
I am a new archer, currently shooting target on a KG Premier 66" 28lb recurve take down (1992). I like it. I am very much drawn to the 3D Field discipline, as it looks the most fun and falls readily into my attempts at "instinctive" shooting. I have noted that this is done at a fort near me and I would really like to try that!
My problem is this. I know that my drawing weight and length (to a lesser degree) will increase from my starting point as of now. I cannot estimate by how much. Most of the bows designed for this are shorter one piece jobs, so I would be buying and selling as I progress (which I will) resulting in quite an outlay that I really have not got. It makes sense for me to buy a take down with a short riser that will enable me to swap the limbs as I change. I see an ACS 12" riser for sale, but realise that this is a top of the range product, and that it only takes "ACS CX" limbs. I expect these limbs are expensive, unless there is a cheaper compatible make?
I further complicate things for myself by having a preference for attractive wood equipment, I expect a link with canoeing and wooden paddles and the general feel of it.
Any suggestions of how I can go about this will be gratefully received thank you.
Richard.
 

Timid Toad

Moderator
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Ironman
A lot depends on your budget. Lots of manufacturers make wood risers with ILF fittings so you can use just about any ILF limbs and your choices are vast.
You are going to end up paying about the same for a seriously good quality wood riser as for a metal one. Check out Border's FB page: Border-Archery for lots of stunning pics. They also run a page on this forum.
 

Timid Toad

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Staff member
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You can, yes.
If I were you I'd be open to finding an ILF compatible riser of some kind. That way you can up your poundage and change drawlength as you go along relatively inexpensively. Then you can make the big expensive decision a little way down the line.
 

steve Morley

New member
Or, I use what I have.........
I would suggest keep using what you have until you've done a few competitions and get a better feel of the various shooting divs. KG make nice bows and 28# will get the job done for most 3D shots. Chances are you will shoot with somebody with a stunning wood bow and you will fall in love with it........no rush just give yourself a chance to see what's available.

IXPE in the Netherlands has about the widest range of Trad bows available in Europe, it's a good starting place just get some idea the range of bows out there, custom bows are very personal and not all of them shoot better than stock bows for 1/2 the money. Takedown bows allow you to build the draw weight slowly, for example you existing 28# and jumping to say 45# is a huge increase, but a reasonable priced T/D with 35# limbs and moving up to 40# or 45# over 12-18 months will help develop you shooting Form during that time, if you over bow yourself at this early stage you end up with form errors that can be very difficult to unlearn.

Traditional Bows
 

52BIGSBY

Member
Thank you all,
Sounds sound to me. I will await patiently for a short cheapish riser that is ILF compatible to pop up on thebay or here, and then work with that. I can see some interesting mental maths coming up with consideration to limb length, draw length, and resulting poundage with a short riser.
 

52BIGSBY

Member
Regarding my last is there a chart that can be used as a reference? i.e. draw length, limb length, limb weight, riser size?
That would interest me.
Richard.
 

52BIGSBY

Member
Errrrrr nothing? Surely there must be some kind of guide regarding this?
I can see field archers buying short ILF risers and having lots of fun playing with all sorts of limbs that fit.
15" riser with long limbs? Is this is what the Hoyt Buffalo is doing?
There could be a big custom thing here with short Samick risers that are ILF compatible being tailored to all sorts of limbs.
If already covered please point me in the right direction.
Richard.
 

English Bowman

Well-known member
I don't know of any chart, but I do have a question for you, the answer may help us come up with suggestions for you.
Why do you want a short riser, what do you expect it do do for you?
 

52BIGSBY

Member
Hello English,
Save money! Have a field bow with interchangeable limbs. I am interested in the concept that the shorter the riser the more draw weight effect, but also I need to consider that the limbs should be drawn to a satisfactory level, so it is not as straightforward as buying a junior take down riser and popping bigger limbs on it......something like the equivalent of a Ragim Black bear with interchangeable limbs.
I have just spotted a Samick Red Fox, but there is little on it, and my local Quicks do not stock Samick. Doh!
On another subject I am very pleased to have my own(ish) outdoor range! I will dig out my mountaineering rescue whistle......It should suit my shift work allowing archery during the daytime.
I hope that my field bow ideas are not nonsensical to you seasoned people, but I am just starting this fun, and am learning.
Thank you,
Richard.
 

English Bowman

Well-known member
The first thing I'd say is to forget the idea that there are field bows and target bows. It's just a label. There are bows, we use them to shoot at targets. These targets may be round ones, in a field or in the woods, or animal shaped ones in the woods, it's all using a bow to shoot at a target.

A shorter bow (made with a short riser perhaps) has some advantages, particularly in woods. It will give a faster arrow speed for a given draw weight, and it will be less likely to get caught in trees or bushes, but there are disadvantages too. It will feel harder to draw for a given draw weight, and it will have a more acute angle of the string at full draw which will make it more likely that you pinch the nock. Also the sight window is smaller cutting down on what you can see, which can mean at short distances you can't see the target when you are on aim, not a good thing.

A 66" bow is not a hugely long bow, and would be fine on any field / 3D course I've ever shot on, so my advice is to use the bow that you've got and stop worrying about short risers. When you are ready for an upgrade, decide if you want a bow primarily for field / barebow, and if so see if there are any club members that can lend you bows to try, or take a trip to a dealers and try some out.

Where are you btw, as you say the the Fort near you runs a field shoot? I'm curious as I run a Fort field shoot at our club near Portsmouth. (Fort Purbrook)
 

52BIGSBY

Member
Hello English,
Just down the road in Emsworth. I will keep at it with my KG. I like it and although old I think it has plenty of life yet for me.
Richard.
 

English Bowman

Well-known member
I wondered if it was Purbrook that you were talking about. If you want to come up and have a chat face to face you're welcome to come along any club night. Tuesday or Thursday 7 - 8:30pm.
We have a few archers who can shoot fairly well without sights, who will be happy to help if you want any advice. (2 former GB Champions in the Trad category, and I've won a few things with a longbow in my time.)
 

52BIGSBY

Member
Thank you English,
I will definately do so. I work shifts so it may be a while before I can attend. Do you meet at the Fort itself?
Are you the most local field/3D archers to me, and what is the process I should attempt once I feel up to giving it a go (skill wise)?
Anthony our club main chap is bringing in a Bickerstaff(?) bow that I can try. I expect that will be interesting.......
Richard.
 

blakey

Active member
Errrrrr nothing? Surely there must be some kind of guide regarding this?
I can see field archers buying short ILF risers and having lots of fun playing with all sorts of limbs that fit.
15" riser with long limbs? Is this is what the Hoyt Buffalo is doing?
There could be a big custom thing here with short Samick risers that are ILF compatible being tailored to all sorts of limbs.
If already covered please point me in the right direction.
Richard.
The Yanks do a lot with the short riser thing, mainly for hunting rigs and power. I would def advise against it. It plays havoc with poundage, string length, etc and you end up with a very short sight window. Much better to stay with a conventional riser length. :)
 
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