Arrows hitting left!

bern47

New member
Hi Guys,
I'm in need of help, I have been coaching a young lady now for 2yrs, in this period I have upgraded her equipment to bring her into her correct age group! the problem I am experiencing is that no matter what spine arrow we use, the arrows always hit left of the target at 18meters, plus minus 12inches from center, and in order for her to get the arrows into the gold, she needs to aim off to the right the same distance! gap gets bigger the further she goes back, she is 13yrs and is shooting in the U15 Girls recurve, her draw weight is 26# at her drawlength of 25.5" tested with a bowpoundage tester, arrow spine for that is 800sp carbon 6mm shafts.
I have paper tuned and at 2M+2M arrows make a perfect entry through the paper, I have done all the checks to make sure the riser is not twisted, limbs are not twisted, alignment is spot on! I'll try and upload photos but I'm not sure if Photobucket still works, I've not used it for a number of years,

all help will be appreciated,
Bern47
 
Last edited:

JackC

New member
I'd double check her eye dominance. We have had a few beginners who were left eye dominant but wanted to shoot right handed and whenever they forgot to close their left eye their arrows strayed to the left of the target.


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geoffretired

Supporter
Supporter
Eye dominance has been suggested as worth checking and it's 2 of us for that one.
I also suggest standing directly behind the archer so she is between you and the target. From that position move your position a little till you can view her bow and see the string down the centre of the limbs when she has it at full draw. When that can be seen, you are directly behind her bow when it is at full draw. You can then look to see which way the bow is facing. If the bow looks as if it is lined up to the left of the gold, and the arrows seem to be flying the way the bow is facing, it could be she has the string blur too far over to her right. From her point of view the string blur might be over to the right of the riser at the sight window.
 

geoffretired

Supporter
Supporter
Eye dominance has been suggested as worth checking and it's 2 of us for that one.
I also suggest standing directly behind the archer so she is between you and the target. From that position move your position a little till you can view her bow and see the string down the centre of the limbs when she has it at full draw. When that can be seen, you are directly behind her bow when it is at full draw. You can then look to see which way the bow is facing. If the bow looks as if it is lined up to the left of the gold, and the arrows seem to be flying the way the bow is facing, it could be she has the string blur too far over to her right. From her point of view the string blur might be over to the right of the riser at the sight window.
 

Timid Toad

Moderator
Staff member
Supporter
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Ironman
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JohnK

Well-known member
Check string alignment and eye dominance, as suggested above.

Also, forget paper tuning. It's reasonably useful for checking nocking point height, but otherwise it's mostly useless for recurve. Bareshaft, starting at 18m and working back to 30m, is all you need to get a good basic tune.
 

ben tarrow

Well-known member
I've spent 20 years hearing people talk about paper tuning for recurve.
Think about it in terms of archers paradox.
An arrow coming out of a recurve flexes left and right, so how on earth are you ever going to get a nice clean bullet hole?
 

ben tarrow

Well-known member
I've spent 20 years hearing people talk about paper tuning for recurve.
Think about it in terms of archers paradox.
An arrow coming out of a recurve flexes left and right, so how on earth are you ever going to get a nice clean bullet hole?
 

Mistake

New member
Ironman
I've spent 20 years hearing people talk about paper tuning for recurve.
Think about it in terms of archers paradox.
An arrow coming out of a recurve flexes left and right, so how on earth are you ever going to get a nice clean bullet hole?
You can't, the goal is to get as small a tear as possible, you may even end up like with my set up where you get a hole with a slight tear either side.

The thinking is that the smaller the tear, the faster the archer's paradox is settling down, so the better the arrow flight.
 

AndyS

Supporter
Supporter
Another vote for the eye dominance and string alignment checks here.
Also .800 spine sounds rather stiff for 26# @ 25.5", my wife shoots .810 spine Carbon Ones that tune nicely with 34# at 27" (100gn, Beiter pin nocks & 4"impulses) and a quick look at the Easton chart seems to suggest a spine somewhere around 1.200 for 26# @ 26". Have you tried bareshaft with the .800s at all?
 

morphymick

The American
Supporter
American Shoot
AIUK Saviour
Also .800 spine sounds rather stiff for 26# @ 25.5", my wife shoots .810 spine Carbon Ones that tune nicely with 34# at 27" (100gn, Beiter pin nocks & 4"impulses) and a quick look at the Easton chart seems to suggest a spine somewhere around 1.200 for 26# @ 26". Have you tried bareshaft with the .800s at all?
Totally agree, .800s are way too stiff. Check Easton's Youth Selection Chart.

Mick
 
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