Ongoing clearance issues - Right handed archer

nig295

New member
I am still having clearance issues, my bareshaft is 1" right at 20yds, 3" right at 30yds but if I come back to 50yds it swings away to the left. The only way for me to get clearance seems to be shooting the arrows very weak, as in the bareshaft is 4" right at 20yds, it's definately the button as I have done the lipstick test.

I have spent 4 weeks tuning, moving the nocking point, center shot and button pressure from one extreme to the other and as I say the only time I get clearance is with a very weak arrow. Before I take up a different sport does anybody have any clues what else I can try? Is it possible to shoot Bowman scores and above with weak arrows, or do some of you shoot with a weak arrow all the time?

Nige
 

geoffretired

Supporter
Supporter
I'm not sure about what is happening here. Do you use the same arrows all the time or do you have some that are weaker than others?
Arrows tend to be too stiff or too weak but rarely can be both.Altering the button won't change weak arrows into stiff ones. Shooting bare shaft arrows and comparing them with the same shafts with fletchings on will show up whether they are weak or stiff. Normally, if you shoot both bare and fletched arrows, the gap between the two groups gets bigger as you shoot from further away. If you alter the button, the arrows will all fly further to one side of centre and the gap between groups may widen or get smaller, or stay about the same.
If you need stiffer arrows, you usually need to buy some that are stiffer, according to the charts.
 

nig295

New member
I have two sets of G3 limbs 36# & 40# The arrows are tuned (bareshaft with fletched at 20yds) with the 36# half way in, but that means the button rips the fletch off. The only time I get clearance is when I have the 40# limbs on, but then the bareshaft is 4" right at 20yds which is very weak.

My problem is that I get no clearance on the button when the arrows are "tuned" even after weeks of changing button, knock and centreshot positions.

I am slowly coming to the conclusion that I will have to permanantly shoot with weak arrows.
 

Timid Toad

Moderator
Staff member
Supporter
Fonz Awardee
Ironman
What spine are your arrows? What is your draw length?

If the arrows are striking the riser or rest or button and damaging fletchings, they are not tuned. They are losing alignment and energy by hitting you bow and it is mere fluke the bare shaft is with your group.

My guess is they are to stiff for the 36lb set and too weak for the 40lb set, but without knowing your DL, spine and arrow length, it is only a rough guess.
 

Mark31121

Member
Ironman
I have spent 4 weeks tuning, moving the nocking point, center shot and button pressure from one extreme to the other
I'm assuming that you've also tried different brace heights and made sure that your nock fit is good?
 

carl7

New member
So hard to diagnose these things unless you have the bow and arrows in hand so you can look at everything personally, one person's description of normal alignment may be far from correct.
 

Mark31121

Member
Ironman
also have you tried twisting your nocks a little? I shoot with a beiter rest and they suggest putting the fletchings in a Y shape rather than the standard -< shape for recurve.

And another point, what fletchings are you using? if they are spinwings etc are they the right handed version?
 

geoffretired

Supporter
Supporter
I agree with Timid Toad ,I think the contacts are giving false readings and that is a dead end. You can't get clearance with the arrows so perhaps they need to be changed.If you know another archer who shoots similar weight bow to you,would you be able to borrow those arrows to try out?Assuming they are the right length for you, too.
 

BillM

Member
I recently encountered a similar situation with one of the barebow archers at the field club. His tillering was way out (18mm) so I reset it to 4mm and in the process somehow dropped the draw weight about 5#. this caused an arrow clearance problem which was obvious by the noise and colour appearing on his arrow rest. I took his bow home with me after shooting last weekend and upped the draw weigh and checked the bow over. The grub screw on the button locking ring was also loose and the button had moved. I shot his arrows on the newly set up bow and the arrows still didn't fly the way I would have expected. They are 1820 alloys and the nearest I have to that was ace 720's. They shot beautifully and impacted at right angles in a group while his arrows did not. Conclusion - his arrows are slightly stiff and he should try as many different arrow spines as he can before buying more arrows. I know that he can adjust to shooting the current arrows but he can do better and will only get frustrated if he can't continue to improve his scores.

BillM
 

Ar-Pe-Lo

Member
I have two sets of G3 limbs 36# & 40# The arrows are tuned (bareshaft with fletched at 20yds) with the 36# half way in, but that means the button rips the fletch off. The only time I get clearance is when I have the 40# limbs on, but then the bareshaft is 4" right at 20yds which is very weak.

My problem is that I get no clearance on the button when the arrows are "tuned" even after weeks of changing button, knock and centreshot positions.

I am slowly coming to the conclusion that I will have to permanantly shoot with weak arrows.
If you ripping fletching off then your bareshaft test (and any tuning) is pointless..... first thing - you have to get no contact and then do bareshaft.

Usualy there is contact if you shooting too weak arrows not stiffer......I think there is different problem there....hard to say what over the net
 

Timid Toad

Moderator
Staff member
Supporter
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Ironman
Contact is possible on both too weak or too stiff arrows. As said above, cure the contact then tune.
 
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