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Discuss Which X10s? at the Target Archery within Archery Interchange Forums; Changing from ACEs to X10s. But which X10 spine will be right? Data: Recurve, 29 ...
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    Which X10s?

    Changing from ACEs to X10s. But which X10 spine will be right?
    Data: Recurve, 29 1/4" (nock groove to end of shaft); 43# OTF, want 120grn points.
    Any suggestions re likely correct spine - bearing in mind the Easton charts are usually a bit wrong?





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    It's an X AIUK subscriber. Timid Toad's Avatar
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    What ACEs are you shooting?
    "Time is an illusion. Lunchtime doubly so." Douglas Adams

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    Hi again TT - long time no-see since Auckland! Sadly our majestic greyhound Jazz reached the end of her days a month ago. Great loss. Our lurcher LuLu was knocked back by the loss, and we regret succumbing to pressure and taking in another lurcher as a foster. She's a monster and LuLu hates her...
    The short answer is ACE 670s w/100grn & pin nocks.
    The long answer is....
    - Bow1 (InnoMax limbs) at 36-38# OTF tuned perfectly bare shaft 25m on the 670s - though the vanes pass very close indeed to the riser (have to use low-profile vanes and get the orientation just right). With increased draw length Bow1 is now 38.9# OTF and still tunes great w/670s bare shaft.
    - Bow2 (also InnoMaxs and identical to Bow1 except nominally 4# heavier limbs) was 40# OTF and also tuned well on the 670s. Bow2 is now 42.6# OTF and, incredibly, a quick bare shaft tuning at 25m the other day looked pretty much ok!

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    It's an X AIUK subscriber. Timid Toad's Avatar
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    Hi!
    So sorry about Jazz. It takes such a long time to grieve; dogs too.

    So arrows. You want one set of X10s to work with both set ups? Probably not possible to be honest. You don't say if your buttons are very squashy, or one squashy and one stiffer.
    Do you have access to an arrow cutter? That would make things easier.
    What you currently find works well for you is an excellent guide for arrow selection, as you've already taken into account your release, style etc.
    You want to go up in point weight, so my guess is you should go up to the next spine, ie a 650. I'd guess a 600 would be too stiff.

    Here's the but...

    But I think you should pick up a few off Ebay or similar secondhand, preferably on the long side. That way you can play inexpensively, and you know the first thing you'll do is stick one of your beautiful matched dozen into the wood....
    And I think you should bare shaft tune out to 30m. Heavier point weight and faster limbs (and, in my experience barrelled shafts) need at least 30m to let the arrows settle into their pattern before the bare shaft tells you what you need to know.
    If you are having trouble with clearance, have you tried using the other button hole? You'll need to move the rest too, but it's a good option if you'd like to see if the arrow passes the riser cleanly.

    It's tricky to give accurate advice in this situation, but you do have a good basis in your choice of ACEs.

    Good luck, with the arrows and the Monster!
    "Time is an illusion. Lunchtime doubly so." Douglas Adams

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    Senlac (05-09-17)

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    THANKS. Outstandingly helpful advice. You're a star - or rather a supernova.
    Re button pressures: Beiter buttons and pretty much in the middle of the middle spring.
    I'm only wanting the X10s to work with the 43# bow.
    No, I haven't tried the other button hole - I have never figured out what it was for!
    I was trying to home-in on the most likely spine, then test it - so yes, great suggestion: I'll look for four 600s (two fletched, two unfletched), and see if they can tune-in well.
    Hard for me to express how extraordinarily helpful your advice has been.
    PS. Re "You want to go up in point weight, so my guess is you should go up to the next spine, ie a 650. I'd guess a 600 would be too stiff". Surely if I go up in point weight it would make the arrows flex more i.e. I'd need stiffer spine to compensate?

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    It's an X AIUK subscriber. Timid Toad's Avatar
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    You are using a 670 ACE that is well matched to your set up? Then a 650 X10 will be slightly stiffer, enough to be fiddled with by adjusting point weight if necessary. Point weight won't bring a one spine out of spec arrow into tune. A 600 would probably be a problem, unless you start out with an arrow an inch longer than you currently use, and chop it down 1/4" *from the front*, at a time.
    By the way, check that your second hand shafts have only been cut from the front. Cutting from the back is a dirty way to get arrows to tune, gives tricky results with a recurve, and really messes with the stated spine.
    Have some fun! You'll learn a lot fiddling.
    "Time is an illusion. Lunchtime doubly so." Douglas Adams

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    Senlac (06-09-17)

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