Arrows - should I upgrade to carbons?

napolienne

Active member
Fonz Awardee
I'm currently shooting xx75's, and me being a midget they are very short (24") 1416's. My problem is that, having tweaked my bow and taken to the gym, I appear to have discovered extra power, with the result that my current arrows are way too flexible - the bare shaft consistently a foot away from the group.

Now, at the moment, being indoors, this doesn't really matter. I'm still getting portsmouth scores around 540, and I'm happy with them. But I presume its going to matter more when we go outdoors.

So, I need to upgrade. But:

1) is there any point in my upgrading to carbons, given that new aluminiums will be short and hence light anyway?

2) what size shaft would i need in carbons? Am I going to have to embarrass myself and buy youth sizes? :boggled:

ta :arc:
 

whisky

Supporter
Supporter
Hi,
before commenting whats your draw weight - either at your draw or 28" and presumably youre shooting a standard length bow?
 

nfinite

New member
Ironman
I would say that it depends on what distance you will be shooting outside.

Carbons are ideal at longer distance ie. lighter,less wind effects,faster

but if your shooting close distance then the x75 should be fine
 

napolienne

Active member
Fonz Awardee
nfinite said:
I would say that it depends on what distance you will be shooting outside.

Carbons are ideal at longer distance ie. lighter,less wind effects,faster

but if your shooting close distance then the x75 should be fine
Hmm will be shooting 60m +. Do you class this as close, or are you one of these 100m types?
 

nfinite

New member
Ironman
You would probally benifit from carbons but if your at a stage where your changing ie draw length , poundage.

then I would stick with x75 untill you settle with a poundage and draw length which is right for you.

other wise you may be buy arrows often as you change .

Could cost a bit....
 

napolienne

Active member
Fonz Awardee
cheers nfinite. I have settled draw length and poundage now. Can't tweak crappy bow any more, and it doesn't take international limbs...
 

Big Boy Blue

New member
Fonz Awardee
Ironman
Ali's will not do to well outside or at the longer distances. I have just had to get my first set of outdoor arrows which I eventually went for ACE's, god are they thin compared to my XX75's.

You can use the Easton program to select the correct spine or any of the other charts. There are programs that will also advise on which are the optimum spines for your setup. I would suggest at this stage, like me you go to your local Archery shop and get them to set you up.

As for draw length, I have seen a 1 inch increase in just 4 month's which has come from better form.

Phil
 

nfinite

New member
Ironman
If you are settled,
Shooting 60m or abouts

then it may be time to invest in some carbons

ACC s should be a good upgrade.
 

whisky

Supporter
Supporter
I'd suggest you keep the XX75 for indoor and invest in carbons, especially if you will be shooting those sorts of distances.

The carbons will be lighter (at the very least 2 grains per inch) than the equivalent alu's so you'll get more speed and thus better sight marks. You can't go wrong with some ACC's or if you want to spend a bit more Navs. Also look at the Cartel triples and Xperts. A lot of people at my club shoot them and rate them very highly. I'd suggest you go for screw in bulge points if they fit and you can then experiment with point weight.

Hope that helps.
 

tel

Active member
Fonz Awardee
I'd definitely go for an 'outdoor' set. There are qite a few posts on here comparing your various options but to put it in a nutshell Triples would appear to give you better value than the ACC by being similar in price, but closer in spec. to the higher eastons (between a nav and an ACE) - after much thread following its the way I went, and can't complain so far.

Good luck

tel
 

whisky

Supporter
Supporter
Bowsports or Alt services appear to be similar in price on bare shafts.
Let us know how you get on with whatever you choose.
 

Kellog

The American
American Shoot
I'd say grab carbons (I like my triples). You *can* make 100yrds/90m with xx75's as I did last year, but barely! Carbons will also give a lot higher and probably better sightmarks :)
 

tel

Active member
Fonz Awardee
I'd like to add that checking out the two suppliers mentioned I found that the difference in going the 'MFI' route for parts and a self-build was a neglible saving on getting the set made to spec (delivered within three days). Note though that if you want curly vanes or some such, it isn't obvious online but it isn't a problem - just state it in your order and its about an extra six quid or so.
Also worth remembering (I didn't, like a prat), if you buy a dozen and intend to tune them, ask them to leave a couple unfletched - nothing more 'twitchy' than ripping newly placed vanes off a new shaft!
Arrow length - cartel points are longer than ACCs - spec to the shaft length as normal but be aware points add a bit more to pull through the clicker -
and finally nocks....beiter, not triple.

think thats it ;)

tel
 

Rik

Supporter
Supporter
tel said:
I'd like to add that checking out the two suppliers mentioned I found that the difference in going the 'MFI' route for parts and a self-build was a neglible saving on getting the set made to spec (delivered within three days).
Well.. yes... but the point of DIY, is that you get to control the quality of the build. No "glueless" points, length a little bit off, or wonky fletching... I don't think it's about saving a few pence.
 

tel

Active member
Fonz Awardee
If you're confident of doing the same job ....
I'm not really bothered about the pence difference, but if they come fully assembled (by someone that knows what they're doing) then to a relative newbie, why struggle? I joined this game to shoot, not manufacture.
 

whisky

Supporter
Supporter
I sort of agree with both Rik and Tel.

If your new to archery then it's probably easiest to get your arrows made up for you. Personally I'd never let a shop do it though (or cut the shafts). The weights of inserts, shafts, points etc can vary quite considerably so if you weigh everything prior to assembly then at least you can make the components up into arrows that are as closely matched as possible. Any good club should have grain scales, arrow cutter etc.

As another examle if I use normal glue for point insertson my indoor arrows (as a shop would) I have found that the heat generated from the speed of the arrow indoors into a boss can unseat the point and/or the insert. So by doing it myself I can use areldite/threadlock etc to stop it all coming away.
 

Bald Eagle

New member
What's normal glue for point insertson? I think most shops use hot melt for point insertion, they have a reputation to uphold and most do a good job of arrow building. Personally, I would ask the shop to cut my shafts to the length of "shaft" I require, not the finished arrow length, if I was self building.
 
Top