OK, what is the difference between 3-18 560 and a 3-28 500 ACC Shaft?

ElderUK

New member
I'm looking at buying a new set of arrows, using the Easton spine selector 2009, I can use either 3-18 560 or 3-28 500, for my draw weight and length, and both should allow me to go up in limb weight too.

So what is the difference between the two shafts?
Nothing anywhere seems to explain it.
 

ElderUK

New member
Thanks guys.
I'm a recurve shooter. I'll look at the PDF.

It was interesting that it offered the ACC in both those spines for recurve though. I did shoot Beman ICS energies which by all the rules should have been over-stiff by at least one spine weight, but with only buying 8, then smashing 2 into a wall, and losing one outdoors, I've spent the rest of the winter indoor/outdoors shooting my old xx75s. And no matter how I set up the sight, end up having to sight down the left of the string blur (right handed archer), but with the Bemans, I could sight comfortably down the right of the string and shoot much more consistently.

Both those Easton ACC weights according to the spine selector should allow a range of roughly 30-40lb draw weight at my draw length so that should help. Currently using 30lb limbs, but drawing near 30".
 

ElderUK

New member
Ah right, I get it, 3l-28 has thicker, stiffer carbon and thinner aluminium tube than the 3L-18 so the 500 is a smaller spine deflection as the arrow looses and flies.

Cool, not that difficult to get to grips with then, even if working out what works best for me might be a little more complex and expensive.
 

geoffretired

Supporter
Supporter
If you are thinking of going up in weight in the future, it might be worth getting the stiffer arrows. They could be a little stiff for current limbs and a better match for stiffer limbs.
If you get the weaker ones you may find they are too soft for the new limbs.
Another thought is to get the stiffer ones a bit too long and that might soften them enough for the current limbs. Then, if you go up in weight you could shorten them if necessary to stiffen them for the stronger limbs.
Matching can take time and money to find the best arrows. I used to buy three and try them before getting a whole set. Fletch one and leave two bare.
 

ElderUK

New member
If you are thinking of going up in weight in the future, it might be worth getting the stiffer arrows. They could be a little stiff for current limbs and a better match for stiffer limbs.
If you get the weaker ones you may find they are too soft for the new limbs.
Another thought is to get the stiffer ones a bit too long and that might soften them enough for the current limbs. Then, if you go up in weight you could shorten them if necessary to stiffen them for the stronger limbs.
Matching can take time and money to find the best arrows. I used to buy three and try them before getting a whole set. Fletch one and leave two bare.
Pretty much what I thought.
Thanks Geoff.
Time to start counting the pennies and see what I can scrape together.
Want a dozen this time, not 8 and running short with losses and wall smashes like last time.
 

The Meggy

Active member
Just to add a few thoughts. I agree with what Geoff says though!

The charts are just there to guide you to a sensible first choice that should work OK. But due to variations in shooting technique and equipment, it is likely that one of the two spines you mention will work better with your setup than the other. Geoff's suggestion of buying just a few shafts and bare-shaft testing is a good one - I know it's extra trouble to go to, but it can save you shelling out for a full 12 arrows which then turn out to be wrong. I have even seen people just buy two shafts, and shoot one fletched and one unfletched. If you do this enough times, you should be able to have some idea if the spine is going to work or not, and can then invest in more arrows with confidence.
 
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