button pressure

tel

Active member
Fonz Awardee
I've had a quick trawl and couldn't find it, but apologies if this has been answered elsewhere.
Is there a simple answer to when a button is too stiff? Or is it never too stiff if it can be wound-in enough to tune the arrow?

tel
 

TJ Mason

Soaring
Supporter
Fonz Awardee
American Shoot
You can have the pressure button completely rigid if you like, but then it won't be "forgiving" of a bad release.

The original purpose of the pressure button, I believe, was to take out some of the excess sideways force in a bad release and prevent the arrow clattering off wildly to one side. It's used these days for more than that, but that's still the main purpose.

For best results, the poundage of the bow should be tuned to match the spine of the arrows, then the pressure button should be used for centreshot and fine tuning. This will tend to result in a soft pressure button. The "stiff plunger" technique in Rick Stonebraker's "Tuning For Tens" system ensures that you're not using the pressure button during tuning to compensate for an incorrectly-spined arrow -- you get the poundage right for the arrow without the masking effects of the pressure button:
http://www.texasarchery.org/Documents/T4T/TuningForTens.pdf
 
R

rgsphoto

Guest
tel said:
I've had a quick trawl and couldn't find it, but apologies if this has been answered elsewhere.
Is there a simple answer to when a button is too stiff? Or is it never too stiff if it can be wound-in enough to tune the arrow?

tel
It may be possible, however you will not be getting an ideal tune, more a compromise. You will find your sight ring is way out of line with your arrow too, either left or right. This will give a poor walkback result too. Oh the doom and gloom of arrow tuning.
 

joetapley

New member
Is there a simple answer to when a button is too stiff?
Button not understood well enough to give an answer. There are archers (hearsay) who use a very stiff button and a negative centreshot to compensate.

Current wisdom (for what it's worth) is that a low button pressure is preffered. A very stiff button makes arrow behaviour unpredictable so tuning becomes an unreliable nightmare.

For "fine tuning" button pressure is optimised so question of "too anything" doesn't arise.

Best approach is use the standard bare shaft method with centreshot defined as a constant in standard position rather than a variable. If bareshaft within acceptable position use poundage adjustment to bring the bareshaft into button spring control (spring can cross over bare/fletched shafts). Always seem to end up with spring in the 3 - 4 Newton range which I suppose you could describe as medium soft.
 

tel

Active member
Fonz Awardee
my reason for asking is that after lengthy discussions on these pages I got a sparkly new set of arrows which appear at first impression to give a 'flimsy' result. Winding the button pressure up to a great extent didn't seem to improve matters much, but then I haven't had chance to 'bare-shaft' yet. I have (today) made adjustments arrow-length wise to allow for the longer point that I didn't anticipate, and maybe the next step is to lighten the points.......but please don't tell me that after probing the board for an eon I've still got the wrong arrows! If so it's a case of make-do - can't change them now. :(
 
R

rgsphoto

Guest
tel said:
my reason for asking is that after lengthy discussions on these pages I got a sparkly new set of arrows which appear at first impression to give a 'flimsy' result. Winding the button pressure up to a great extent didn't seem to improve matters much, but then I haven't had chance to 'bare-shaft' yet. I have (today) made adjustments arrow-length wise to allow for the longer point that I didn't anticipate, and maybe the next step is to lighten the points.......but please don't tell me that after probing the board for an eon I've still got the wrong arrows! If so it's a case of make-do - can't change them now. :(
Give us some numbers to play with Tel..can't be that far out?
 
R

rgsphoto

Guest
tel said:
You must remember the over-worked 'Triple' threads RG?
Oh no not the triple thread? :boggled: Can't remeber if we came to any conclusion on that one?
 

tel

Active member
Fonz Awardee
Depends really on what you were looking for - I had already decided that, in principle, there was nothing wrong with giving triples a try - what I was concerned about was if I was reading the charts correctly, and with Marcus' help (as a purveyor(?) of said arrows) thought I had it sussed - at this moment in time I'm not so sure....
 
R

rgsphoto

Guest
tel said:
Depends really on what you were looking for - I had already decided that, in principle, there was nothing wrong with giving triples a try - what I was concerned about was if I was reading the charts correctly, and with Marcus' help (as a purveyor(?) of said arrows) thought I had it sussed - at this moment in time I'm not so sure....
Here we go again....
My info on triple comparison is:-

Triple / Easton spine equivalent

300 - 424
400 - 525
500 - 554
600 - 623
700 - 665
800 - 798

What did you buy?
 

tel

Active member
Fonz Awardee
Aha, there it is...
I measure 27.5" base of nock to button at full draw, so I'm thinking that translates to 29.25" Draw length, and with 42lb limbs thats 44.5lbs on the fingers.
 
R

rgsphoto

Guest
tel said:
Aha, there it is...
Assuming a 30" or even 29" arrow that spine should be spot on?:boggled: It a case of triple hell. Are the conversion charts right? If anything they may be a little weak if they are 30" long..
 

tel

Active member
Fonz Awardee
I've only picked up the newly adjusted length (my fault entirely) this evening on the way home - so maybe all will turn out fine. The button question was really a reassurance plea so I'd be better informed for the next 'tuning' session.
 

tel

Active member
Fonz Awardee
do I detect a hint of 'no bloody chance'? One thing though, at least I shoot recurve - not as though it needs to be precise.....
 

tel

Active member
Fonz Awardee
Little Miss Purple said:
I was going to tune my bow / button last week but I chickened out!! :sigh:
It would be easy not to bother LMP, especially as the scores haven't been too bad. But the new pointy sticks for outside are just too different to the existing ones to get away with it!
 

joetapley

New member
Winding the button pressure up to a great extent didn't seem to improve matters much, but then I haven't had chance to 'bare-shaft' yet.
Until you do a bare shaft test you won't know if you have tuneable arrows. Sows ear into silk purse with spring pressure alone not possible.
 
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