How to wax a string?

Thorvald

Active member
Hi.

In order to prolong the life of a string, it should be waxed regularly. In another thread the life span of a string is being discussed. I think that a string can last for several years, if treated properly - and I wouldn't mind to use a string that have been laying in the bow case for several years.

But about waxking a string. I guess the best method is to untwist the string as much as possible, string it on the bow and apply wax to it. I used earlier to prefer to work the wax into the string with a piece of leather, but I have heard that the friction heat can damage the string. So today, when I waxed my string, I worked the wax into the string with my fingers. I actually think it is a good method, because with leather, the leather usually takes some of the wax off the string.

So, how regularly is regularly? I would say that when the string is completely dry - you can't feel any wax on it with your fingers - then it's time to wax it again.
 

clickerati

The American
Fonz Awardee
Ironman
American Shoot
after waxing and twisting, i loop a thread of serving around the string and run it up and down the length a few times. it rounds the string and removes excess wax.
 

Whitehart

Well-known member
after waxing and twisting, i loop a thread of serving around the string and run it up and down the length a few times. it rounds the string and removes excess wax.
Good move too much wax adds weight :)

Not all strings need waxing such as Angel Majesty
 

buzz lite beer

Well-known member
Angel majesty instructions actually encourages the use of a leather pad to generate heat:-
"rub the string several times with a small piece of leather hard and fast to burnish the string. The thermally bonded resin will fill in and work as a membrane. In this way, the thermally bonded resin protects a string from damage by ultraviolet rays and prevents penetration of rain and moisture. The weight of your string will remain unchanged."
 

Thorvald

Active member
Interesting... Can it be that some string materials can handle heat better than others? My strings are of Dynaflight 97 and it was the maker of these strings, who said that he used his fingers in stead of leather to work in the wax. As he said: I don't suggest using leather to work the wax into the string. This method can build up too much heat and damage the string. I just work mine in with my bare fingers.
 

buzz lite beer

Well-known member
You're right most modern bowstrings are fundementely Plastic "HMPE" with a melting point of around 150 degrees centigrade, I've always used just enough bare finger friction to liquify the silcon based wax I use, and on "new" strings I use the method Clicki suggest to remove excess wax that is inherent in the string from the manufacturer.
When I first used Angel Majesty and still to this day after reading the recomendations I have my concerns as to how much heat to apply to melt the thermally bonded resin to form the protective membrane.
 

Thorvald

Active member
Ok then. But do you people out there untwist your string, before wax it or do you just wax it as it is?? Previously I didn't untwist the string (and on compounds, you can't), but yesterday, I thought it might be a good idea.
 

buzz lite beer

Well-known member
Usually I apply wax when twisted (for me), probably because the string is on the bow before I realise that the string needs waxing, probably is a good idea for the drier looking strings to use your inspired idea and un twist, but then if you apply wax once a week or bi-monthly your string really shouldn't get to the state to require this. :cheerful:
 

Whitehart

Well-known member
Coincidentally I received this today from the horses mouth: Perhaps it should go somewhere else as well - quite useful.

The relevent bit to this thread is in the usage section

[Performance of Majesty]
a. The initial modulus of elasticity is increased so much that it makes excellent arrow groups.
Drawing energy is promptly transferred to the limbs by this trait, which in turn then transfers
the limb energy to the nock most effectively.
b. High modulus of elasticity lessens the effect of bad shots by extinguishing amplified string
oscillation caused from a sloppy release. You'll notice that the string is prevented from hitting
your bow arm as it recovers most consistently.
c. The impact of the limbs is absorbed by this superior characteristic of dampened oscillation.
Most vibration of the limbs is extinguished quickly which means less wear chance of damage is
achieved.

[Usage of Majesty]
1. "Majesty" strings should be twisted between 20 and 40 times before installing the string into a
bow.
2. After installing, 10 shots should be done in order to settle the string in.
3. Tune brace height and affix a nocking point. After this is done, rub the string several times
with a small piece of leather hard and fast to burnish the string. The thermally bonded resin will
fill in and work as a membrane. In this way, the thermally bonded resin protects a string from
damage by ultraviolet rays and prevents penetration of rain and moisture. The weight of your
string will remain unchanged.
[Strands]
14 to 18 strands for recurve bows
20 to 24 strands for compound bows.
[Majesty and nocks]
Majesty Bowstring 14 str with Majesty Serving 0.021 : Easton Pin Nock (Small)
Majesty Bowstring 16 str with Majesty Serving 0.021 : Easton G Nock (Small), Pin Nock (Large),
Beiter Nock (12-1)
Majesty Bowstring 18 str with Majesty Serving 0.021 : Easton G Nock (Large),
Beiter Nock (12-2)
 

EVC

New member
Normally I use a piece of leather. However a piece of paper will do too and IMO it is better than bare fingers (for both the string and the fingers.) :)

:beer:

Elder.
 

Dajjal

New member
i watched a tutorial on string making on youtube (the font of all knowledge!) and on that video they used wax rubbed in with kitchen foil.

they did then do the serving loop as clicki stated to remove excess
 

Tropicalshot

New member
Interesting... Can it be that some string materials can handle heat better than others? My strings are of Dynaflight 97 and it was the maker of these strings, who said that he used his fingers in stead of leather to work in the wax. As he said: I don't suggest using leather to work the wax into the string. This method can build up too much heat and damage the string. I just work mine in with my bare fingers.
I manufacture strings and have done for the last 10 years, for myself and others,
I use Dyna97 as for me its the material that works for me,
I find that the string material has enough wax impregnated into it already and does not need rewaxing, though i do live in the tropics with heat excessive of 30 Deg C daily,maybe the heat keeps the wax more fluid instead of solidifying too much like it would in colder climes.
I am currently shooting in the monsoonal wet season we get through summer and the string is working fine and not retaining moisture,(average 33 Deg C and 80% Humidity) I shoot a new string in for 3 months then that becomes a spare put into a plastic zip lock, i have three spares and when my current string goes i pull out the 3rd spare and use that, (rotation of my strings means they are on average 9 months old each)
When i make the string and have twisted up to brace height i, then use the method clickerati uses to ensure the roundness of the string and to remove any excess wax, we call this Garroting over here,
You have to remember that the String material you buy could be several years old before you have purchased it and eventually use it, My current spools are over 5 yrs old each, ( iamstuck with the same colour for the rest of my archery career, they last too long ) :(
 

Thorvald

Active member
#Tropicalshoot. When I got my bow in middle of 2008, I had also ordered 4 strings of different colors together with the bow (from USA). I like the strings a lot - made as flemish strings they are quite beautiful. The strings I don't use I have in their plastic bags. In the beginning the strings definetely feeled very well waxed - but after some time, it feeled more dry. Maybe - as you say - it has something to do with the climate. I haven't shot outdoors with this bow yet - so the strings are in my bow case in my apartment (the string I use, is not in the plastic bag). Then a small trip, ? hour, on bike to the indoor shooting range, through cold weather (we have had an unusual cold and long winter this year and still have). Then shooting in the indoor range - what the temperature is there, I don't know.

It is my intention to change between the strings from time to time - maybe having 2 strings for outdoor and 2 for indoor.
 

Tropicalshot

New member
Waxing your strin will definitely not hurt it unless you put too much on,
When my string looks dry or fluffy, i just rub it with leather or lightly garott it again to warm the wax up and make it smooth and round again,
but my string stays on my bow (strung up) from the time i put it on until the time i change it, ( unless i have to fly) i ususally only have to change a string once a year,
 

Thorvald

Active member
Waxing your strin will definitely not hurt it unless you put too much on,
When my string looks dry or fluffy, i just rub it with leather or lightly garott it again to warm the wax up and make it smooth and round again,
but my string stays on my bow (strung up) from the time i put it on until the time i change it, ( unless i have to fly) i ususally only have to change a string once a year,
Ok. Eeeh, do you shoot recurve? And your bow is always stringed? Well I know that with modern bows it can be ok to have it always stringed, but I am still a little surprised.
 

Tropicalshot

New member
Ok. Eeeh, do you shoot recurve? And your bow is always stringed? Well I know that with modern bows it can be ok to have it always stringed, but I am still a little surprised.
I have alway kept my recurve Strung up between shoots and have noticed no detriment to the limbs at all, somewhere in this forum you will find a statement from Gtek of Hoyt who mentions having a bow strung up in his appartment for 16 yrs and is still fine, Of course i have to be careful with storage in high temps living in the tropics but no damage done yet,

Original Quote From Gtek was on another forum HERE, but i knew i read it somewhere
 
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