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Thread: arrow weight

  1. #1
    In the Blue
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    arrow weight

    a bit of a tricky one to answer I know but...I was at my club sunday and someone put out a target at 100yds. they were using a recurve. I thought I would have a pop, at max elevation I managed to get 1 to reach. I am thinking maybe my arrows are too heavy they come in at 34 grms . my bow is a bamboo backed trilam at 50# what is the lightest arrow I could get away with without it being like a dry fire?

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  3. #2
    It's an X Del the Cat's Avatar
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    Yes your arrows are too heavy. They are about 525 grains. (We generally talk in grains for arrow weight)
    There is a lot of nonsense spoken about "you should shoot 10 grains per pound", but that is for just for hunting to provide some decent kinetic energy.
    You can safely go down to 350 grains. (7 grains per pound)
    Bear in mind, I'm entering the 50# ELB flight class at the end of the month and my flight arrows are in the range of 250 300 grains. Mind a bare shaft weighs about 300 grains.
    For long range, taper the shaft front and rear, fit a 50 gn or lighter point* and short low profile fletchings it will make a vast difference.
    Make sure you arrows are only as long as your draw length to the back of the pile (or maybe enough extra to allow them to be re-pointed in the event of a point snapping off)... use 5/16" shafts and don't shoot full 32" shafts, they are heavier and less aerodynamic.
    One more thing, make sure you are getting to full draw and getting a good clean loose, most people I see shooting don't draw as far as they think they are!
    Del
    * use 1/4" points to go on a tapered shaft... Quicks do a 20 grain 1/4" OD brass bullet pile.
    Health Warning:- These posts may contain traces of nut.

  4. #3
    In the Black Lammas's Avatar
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    There is a lot of nonsense spoken about "you should shoot 10 grains per pound", but that is for just for hunting to provide some decent kinetic energy.
    You can safely go down to 350 grains. (7 grains per pound)
    That depends. Some Mariner bows (Chinese style horse bows) for example recommend a 12 or 13 gpp minimum for their bows.
    If the manufacturer of the bow has a recommendation, go with it.
    If not, try 7 gpp, and see if you feel a difference. If you sense notably more handshock, better go up.

    And yes, high FOC is good for stability and quick correction, but not for maximal distance.
    A lighter tip (less FOC) will worsen flight characteristics, but flatten the trajectory.

  5. #4
    In the Blue
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    thankyou for the information. the arrows I used were 11/32 at 32" with a 3" feather, so def some some weight can be lost. I has some 5/16 arrows from my lighter bows and will cut them down and go from there. must suss this grain business

  6. #5
    In the Red
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    I use the stiffest 5/16" I can get (usually 40#) and 40-50gn piles with no bigger than 2" fletches.
    I have tried tapered arrows for distance shooting but found no appreciable advantage and find that you will smash your nocks with a bad release. Taking a razor blade to your fletches makes a bigger difference initially.
    If you have a long draw length you at a disadvantage to someone with a short draw length as their arrows will be lighter (shorter) and have less drag. For the same nominal spine your arrows will be considerably more flexible and this will certainly be a disadvantage on a windy day with straw bosses.

  7. #6
    In the Blue
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    I got myself some ally piles that are only 30 grn, feathers will be 'modified' a little.

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