[English Longbow] Seasoning Elm

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stu_1961

Guest
Can anyone give me advice on the best way to season and prepare Elm staves?
Eg.
1- Do I leave the bark on?
2- Do I split into staves prior to seasoning or leave as a log (120mm diameter) or half log?
3- Could I rough out the bow shape while green?

Any advice would be welcome!
 
D

Deleted member 7654

Guest
120mm is about right for splitting (or sawing) into 2. Probably won't get 4 staves.
Split in 2, paint the ends with PVA or old paint, this stops the ends drying too quickly and splitting (checking). Leave for 6-9 months then de bark, then leave until they've had a year then they are seasoned.
You can also de-bark immediately as it may come off the green wood easier, but some woods can dry too quickly (probably ok with Elm)
If you want to get on with making a bow, then take one stave de-bark and work it green, but don't flex it too much.
You can clamp it to a former while green and it will dry out taking the shape of the former (E.G reflexed tips, or deflexed at the centre reflexed at the tips).
As a rule of thumb they say a year per inch thickness, so if it is worked down to bow dimensions it will season in a few months.
You can speed it further by putting it somewhere warm but there is a risk of splitting.
See my website (google delsbows) The Hazel bows section has one worked green and one done in about a month.
What sort of bow are you aiming for longbow or primitive flatbow. I'd think Elm would make a lovely primitive.
Del
 
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stu_1961

Guest
Thanks Del
I will take the long road with one half and rough out with the second one.
I want to make one longbow and one flatbow, not sure which to do first.
The log will only be about 174cm, so I thought the longbow could be a shorter Welsh type!
Any suggestions for dimensions for such a bow?

Stuart
 
D

Deleted member 7654

Guest
Depends on how long it is, what draw weight you want etc.
Here are the finished dimensions of a 60# Yew longbow 71" long nock to nock.
28mm wide x 26mm deep at the grip tapered down to 17 x 15 at the tips.
The Elm may not be as stiff, but the you prob' won't want as much draw weight.
Make it as long as you can, it can always be shortened later, which will also increase the draw weight if you've made it a bit under weight, which is easy to do when you are first making bows.
Have a look at my bowyers diary which has been running for well over a year now, and has every thing from harvesting logs to making horn nocks. Google 'bowyers diary' to find it.
I'm making a 90# Yew longbow on there at the moment. :)
Del
 

Raven's_Eye

Active member
Ironman
Just passing on what I've read, not really had any experience with seasoning. But in the traditional bowyer's bible it says that if you rough out the stave while the wood is still un seasoned, when it dries its more likely to take a bend.

As to which to make first I would suggest making the flatbow first as because it isn't as thick them the wood will be seasoned faster than that of the longbow.

Its quite an interesting read the bowyers bible, when talking about bow design saying the flatbow is more efficient in the design for the power to the arrow, the longbow survives the stresses of hunting and warfare better, so in effect lasts longer.
 
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stu_1961

Guest
Thanks guys
Not only is this my first bow made from Elm, it will be my first using harvested wood and being able to use the natural sapwood for the back of the bow.
All the bows I've made so far were from milled timber ( boards) and working down the back to a growth ring.
Most of the bows I've made are around 80-90lbs, so I would like to make the Elm longbow the same. My normal length is 78in but this log will only be about 70in.
That's a good idea to rough out the flat bow first. Maybe I can get to work on finishing it after about 6 months air drying?
I'll make sure the bows are clamped to a straight edge while drying

Stuart
 

blakey

Active member
Not only is this my first bow made from Elm, it will be my first using harvested wood and being able to use the natural sapwood for the back of the bow.
Most of the bows I've made are around 80-90lbs, so I would like to make the Elm longbow the same. My normal length is 78in but this log will only be about 70in.
Stuart
Hi Stuart. I picked up a log of wych elm cut down by the Council. It was about 5" in diameter and 66" long. I split it and ended up with 3 staves, left the bark on and painted the ends and forgot about them for a year or so. It made 3 bows and I still use them regularly. The heaviest is 62 lbs. Although 66" is very short they seem to be unbreakable. They were a great success, I think because I left the bark on till they were finished. I've gone seriously downhill since and have broken dozens of various other timbers and combinations. This winter I've made up my mind to sneak out one night and cut one down. They're not a native here and quite hard to find. I'm eyeing one up in the grounds of Government House. Cheers
 
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stu_1961

Guest
Thanks Blakey
Interesting, I think I'll leave the bark on . How hard is it to remove once seasoned with the stave?
The Elm I've got is Golden Elm, not sure how suitable it will be!
So you've got the balls to grab a log from Goverment House? go for it I say!

Stuart
 

blakey

Active member
So you've got the balls to grab a log from Goverment House? go for it I say!

Stuart
Must be in the genes. Carrying on the tradition of my convict ancestors. Nobody would notice here in the winter. The Guv goes to Queensland for the sun. The bark comes off quite easily if you leave it. I found it just fell off in bits with all the flexing every time you shoot the bow. I don't know anything about Golden Elm. Is that a Chinese variety? We have quite a few varieties of Chinese Elms over here. You've put another idea into my head. Maybe I'll check out some of the ornamental gardens too? it would be great to find an alternative to Wych. Thanks for that. Cheers
 
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