Is it about the bow?

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wheeljem

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Good morning everyone,

I took up archery about 4 months ago using a second hand wooden recurve from border archery (I guess of 70's or 80's vintage) shooting barebow (my understanding of this is that I can use no artifical pullers, no sites, etc.) although I do use easton 1914 arrows whereas I believe that for competition I would have to use wooden arrows.

Anyway, my question is, how much difference does the bow make. I can understand that a more powerful bow gives you a flatter trajectory but does the quality of the bow make that much difference. I love the bow I have as a piece of art but I'm interested to know given that I hope to compete this summer.

Before you say it, I know it's more about ability and practice. To give you an idea of where I'm at, I shoot a 4" spread at c.15m and a 9" spread at 35m. When I get beyond 35m the neighbours are in danger so more practice is needed!

Thanks
wheeljem
 

JohnK

Well-known member
Welcome to the sport, and the fun of barebow shooting :)

First of all, the arrows and equipment you can use depends entirely on which discipline you decide to shoot with which society.

With your bow, you have the following options:

Shoot the FITA barebow category - no sights, no stabilisers, any type of arrow.

Shoot field archery with the NFAS. You can either enter the Hunting Tackle discipline (wooden arrows, no sights, no stabilisers, mediterranean-style loose (one finger above the arrow, two below) or barebow (no sights, one stabiliser permitted, any type of arrow).

There are others, and more details for each discipline, but broadly speaking that's it.

With a more modern bow you will get a flatter trajectory, and this will make distance judgement less critical should you decide to do field archery. Your Border bow is probably a lovely piece of kit and if you enjoy shooting it then there's no reason for you to change. One thing to note is if it is quite old it may not be a good idea to shoot carbon arrows through it. Then again you could try a more up-to-date Border field bow (such as the Black Douglas Mirage - which can take carbon arrows and modern string materials) or even go down the route of shooting with a metal riser and wood/glass, wood/carbon or even entirely synthetic limbs.

Anyway, a 9in group at 35m after four months is something to be pleased with. I hope you continue to progress and enjoy the sport, whatever discipline you end up shooting.
 

Macbow

New member
With your current set up you could should IFAA Bowhunter Recurve - check the rules but I believe you are allowed a short stabiliser. There is obviously the factor of the archer behind the bow but yes the equipment makes a huge difference. Up my way nearly everyone shoots Border bows and they can command their top end prices because you get exactly what you pay for, especially in traditional archery. Border invest massively in R&D and are always pushing the performance barrier resulting in bows and limbs that are highly respected around the world. Fast and flat is the key to accurate tournament shooting and the new Border recurves are capable of shooting superlight arrows at blisteringly fast speeds without blowing the riser and limbs apart. Buying into that pedigree won't make you a better archer but when you become a better archer it could give you the performance edge to beat the next guy. And it's that aspect that sets new records.
 

robtattoo

New member
Malc's got it spot on. Top quality equipment won't make you a better archer, but poor equipment will stop you becoming one!

You absolutely get what you pay for, bow-wise. Starting off with a top quality bow (as you have) can pay great dividends in bringing you to a certain level, once this level is acheived, however, then it could be the equipment holding you back. I'd give it a few more months shooting your current setup (if you want to, it's up to you!) & learn to shoot it to the best of it's & your abilities. You've got no reason to worry about being competetive with it, that's more down to you than the bow :)
 

wheeljem

New member
It looks like, for once, I did the right thing with my choice of kit. As the bow ages I assume it is the stiffness of carbon arrows that could cause damage. From what you guys have told me it sounds like I should keep on with what I have until I a)break it or b)come in to some unforseen money and then visit the boys at border archery for a nice new one.

With regard to FITA barebow, is this a category that is fairly well supported? When I first looked at the possibility of doing some competitions, the past results sheets appeared to be 3 "billy no-mates" and his dog.

Thanks for the encouraging feedback.

Macbow - I am also "up here" living in Fife working in Edinburgh, whereabouts do you shoot?
 

Macbow

New member
Hi wheeljem - I'm in Elgin and shoot at Inverness Field Archery Club. Whereabout do you shoot?
As far as carbons go it isn't the stiffness but the light weight of most carbons that can damage a bow. Some carbons are so light it is almost like dry firing a bow - the bow will sound loud and harsh and damage can occur. However I am a huge carbon fan and given the choice would shoot nothing else if the IFAA longbow rules allowed. The Carbon Express Heritage 150 shafts I use (for bows of 35-55lbs) weigh 10 grains per inch and are perfectly safe to shoot from any tradbow.
 

wheeljem

New member
Macbow,

It's interesting what you say about the lightness of the arrows. When I first got the bow I bought some very cheap arrows on the assumption (a correct assumption I may say) that I would be hitting everything but the target. Having lost, broken and generally destroyed them and invested in a proper butt I bought my set of Easton 1914's. I selected these based upon the Easton charts (my bow is rated at 34# at 28") but the bow does feel more harsh now.

Perhaps I should borrow a set of slightly heavier arrows to guage the response.

As for where I'm shooting, I only shoot at home. I'm fortunate enough to have sufficient space that, as long as the dog is behind me, the only thing that's going to get hurt is my pride.

For something that's basically a stick and a piece of string, this all gets very complex.....and I've still to understand the various competition rules!
 

robtattoo

New member
Just something to try, rather than buying heavier arrows; Remove the nock )or pile, whichever) from your allys, instert strimmer cord into the arrow unti 1" pokes out of the end & then re-insert the nock/pile so that it wrinkles up the strimmer cord inside the shaft. This adds extra weight, without altering your arrow's spine :) Works a treat on carbons too (if you can weigh the cord first, it helps a lot. A good batting average is to aim for 8-10 grains of arrow weight for every # of bow weight at your draw ie; for your bow 340gn if you draw 28" would be ideal) I use a combination of 250lb fishing line & 4mm surgical tubing in my Carbon Express Terminators to get my arrow weight up to 550gn for a 57# bow. Cheap, effective & as long as you can weigh it accurately, very consistent :D
 

wheeljem

New member
robotattoo,

strimmer string worked a treat! Ace idea AND as I used the last of the spool I'll have more time for tea and cake between ends.
 
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