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Thread: Ace can't get em flying well!

  1. #1
    In the White
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    Ace can't get em flying well!

    I'm shooting 70" Uukha with 42 otf arrows are 30.5" ACE 520
    these arrows shoot well at 70m but inside at 18m they don't do well at all.

    If I follow all the normal tuning procedures:
    nocking point is easy to find with paper tuning
    but left/right is a nightmare - the arrows consistently want to shoot way right (indicating weak setup?) but bare shaft goes left of fletched (indicating stiff setup)
    I just end up by setting arrow pointing well left with Hardish Spring pressure then as I said before they go good at long distances.
    im keen to get the. &@ things shooting straight at all distance!
    anybody have any ideas
    cheers

  2. #2
    It's an X
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    When you shoot through paper, do you use fletched or bareshafts?
    If you shoot both, are there differences in the tears that might indicate contact with fletchings against something?
    If the bareshafts go left of the fletched arrows, that is normal for stiff shafts, yes? In other words the fletched arrows will be expected to go right of the bareshafts. When your fletched arrows go right; are you saying they are going right, compared to where they should be going?
    Is there a chance for someone to watch you shoot from directly behind you? They stand so they can watch which way you are aiming the bow and the string and the arrow. They should see the string appearing down the centre of the limbs with the sight on the gold.

  3. #3
    It's an X I've taken part in an AIUK Ironman Shoot.The Fonz Award.AIUK subscriber. Timid Toad's Avatar
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    Paper tuning is a waste of time really for recurve set ups. If you are happy with your nocking point, get out to 30m and bareshaft as a starting point, then tune for groups at 70m. If you can't get a bareshaft into your group at 30m you have the wrong spine. If it's only a bit out you could try lightening your points but it'll make a minor difference.
    Faster bows and modern skinny arrows are hard to tune for indoor rounds, which is why most people consider a separate set up for indoors: fat heavy slow arrows "settle" into their flight much more quickly, are easier to tune for short distances and have line-cutter benefits. If you want to shoot the same arrows for both disciplines you'll need to retune, bringing your arrow closer to centre shot and going from there. It's not easy, and it's altogether preferable to go for some dedicated indoor shafts. You can go a little bit stiff, a little bit longer and with heavier points than your ACEs can cope with.
    "Time is an illusion. Lunchtime doubly so." Douglas Adams

  4. #4
    It's an X jerryRTD's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Timid Toad View Post
    Paper tuning is a waste of time really for recurve set ups. If you are happy with your nocking point, get out to 30m and bareshaft as a starting point, then tune for groups at 70m. If you can't get a bareshaft into your group at 30m you have the wrong spine. If it's only a bit out you could try lightening your points but it'll make a minor difference.
    Faster bows and modern skinny arrows are hard to tune for indoor rounds, which is why most people consider a separate set up for indoors: fat heavy slow arrows "settle" into their flight much more quickly, are easier to tune for short distances and have line-cutter benefits. If you want to shoot the same arrows for both disciplines you'll need to retune, bringing your arrow closer to centre shot and going from there. It's not easy, and it's altogether preferable to go for some dedicated indoor shafts. You can go a little bit stiff, a little bit longer and with heavier points than your ACEs can cope with.
    Agreed, save a lot pf wear and tear on the ACES' and get some alloys.
    just point,pull & click the mouse button

  5. #5
    In the White
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    thanks for all your help - lots to think about!

  6. #6
    In the Blue
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    When you did the bare shaft testing, did you check your rest placement, centre shot, tiller etc first? If the bare shafts are showing stiff, then you need to get that fixed. How far left are the bare shafts at 30m?

    I shoot uukah VX1000 too and found they need arrows that are a spine softer than the chart recommends.

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