Arrow falling off rest - why?

Newalpost

New member
For some reason over the last few weeks something in my draw or whatever must have changed. Every so often when I get to the last few inches, the arrow will gently fall off the rest.

I've had a word with the club instructor and he's given me some pointers but if anybody would care to add a few clues as to why I'd appreciate the help.

BTW: It's a recurve bow. No change in arrows or string or tab or anything else I can think of.

Thxs
 

vivilanco

Member
What type of rest is it (metal (magnetic) / plastic)?

I had a very similar issue with a basic SF Archery magnetic rest that came with my riser. Upon inspection it appeared I had bent the rest when packing my riser away (joys of the woods!). Luckily I had a spare Hoyt Super Rest (plastic) and to be honest I've kept it on and I haven't looked back since.
 

Newalpost

New member
What type of rest is it (metal (magnetic) / plastic)?

I had a very similar issue with a basic SF Archery magnetic rest that came with my riser. Upon inspection it appeared I had bent the rest when packing my riser away (joys of the woods!). Luckily I had a spare Hoyt Super Rest (plastic) and to be honest I've kept it on and I haven't looked back since.
It's the same rest as yours. It's a thought so I'll check it out - thanks.
 

geoffretired

Supporter
Supporter
In many cases of arrows falling off the rest at the end of the draw, it is down to the second finger, the one below the arrow nock. As the draw lengthens, the string angle sharpens and pushes that finger up against the nock, lifting the arrow up from underneath.Then it falls off the rest.
Another reason can be the rest arm is slightly bent downwards; but the arrow tends to fall sooner when that is the case.
 

Newalpost

New member
In many cases of arrows falling off the rest at the end of the draw, it is down to the second finger, the one below the arrow nock. As the draw lengthens, the string angle sharpens and pushes that finger up against the nock, lifting the arrow up from underneath.Then it falls off the rest.
Another reason can be the rest arm is slightly bent downwards; but the arrow tends to fall sooner when that is the case.
Geoff....

Thanks - that's the same thing our instructor said. He mentioned that I should consider making the finger separator on my tab thicker to spread my 1st and 2nd finger. Any thoughts on how to do this? Sugru perhaps.
 

geoffretired

Supporter
Supporter
Two things to consider. One is the finger or fingers. If the second finger is set on the string too close to the nock, it will be pressed against it and lift the arrow off the rest. If the finger is set further below the nock, it might cure the problem.... but only if that finger takes its fair share of the load. If the second finger weakens, it gets pressed against the nock. That second finger can be helped a good deal by having the third finger helping by taking a share of the load, too. Often the third finger just rests against the string, doing next to no work.
The bigger spacer is a good idea, too. Sugru is good stuff but very expensive and takes ages to dry.( it did for me anyway)
I like to use car body filler. It is easy to shape and sets quickly so any mods can be tackled quickly.
One of my favourites is Polymorph. It has to be boiled to melt it but it is very strong , sets as it cools and can be re shaped by warming afterwards. It ends up as a white plastic, which could be similar to the original spacer. Wrapping leather round is also good and is comfortable when in place. Some spacers start off as a roll of leather screwed through to the tab's plate.
 

ThomVis

Active member
See if your stringhand wrist is relaxed, only tension should be in the 3 fingers hanging on to the string. Usually when the wrist is not relaxed there is unwanted tension in the fingers as well, squeezing the arrow. If it is relaxed a thicker fingerspacer might help, but don't overdo it (with a too thick a spacer the fingertips can curls together again).
And do your tab-face and -backing give enough space around the arrow?
 

Newalpost

New member
Thanks everyone for the advice...plenty to think about.

I may try padding out the tab spacer bit by bit until - hopefully - I see and improvement. Then think about something more permanent.

As for the tab front and back - well this has been worrying me recently. Firstly the backing, being not stuck all over the front face, comes loose and I sometimes have to fiddle about to get it around the string aligned with the front face. Secondly I now think that it may also close up i.e reduce the gap as I wrap my fingers around the string. Not my fingers closing but the tab 'fingers' closing up. I think some adjustment may be in order.
 

geoffretired

Supporter
Supporter
The front face and back face should be fixed together so that they cannot twist one over the other; but the fingers should be able to separate front from back, in order for them to bend more easily.
 

Rik

Supporter
Supporter
One version of this I saw with a flip rest was due to creeping forward at the end of the shot. There was just enough friction that as the shaft moved forward slightly, it took the rest arm with it. Fixed by stopping the creeping (clicker).

But it's usually lifting. Or the rest giving way (or damaged in some other fashion). Or, in some cases, pressing down rather than lifting. Some rests will distort enough for the shaft to slip off under pressure.

I'm not a fan of big spacers as a cure, however. I'm not sure they work, and probably don't deal with the underlying problem.
 

WinBase

Member
Far be it from me to offer advice, but i had a similar thing a few years ago, a few months after i started, especially outdoors in a bit of wind. what i did in my initial setup was use a nail clipper to cut a bit off the hook of the hoyt stick on rest, as id read somewhere that was the thing to do to prevent it potentially fouling the vane. I think i cut too much off because it was almost flat, and as it wore down a tad more thats when i had this problem, so investing ?1.75 & putting a new rest on cured the issue. I didnt clip any of the hooked bit off and havent since, as it didnt seem to make any difference to the arror flight. it was probably compounded a bit by an inconsistent release as well, but it sorted it out none the less. GL
 

Newalpost

New member
Thanks everyone.

Another consideration. I was too embarrassed on previous post to mention the almighty dry fire I had on the last end at the last session. I think I was focusing too much on the arrow falling off problem. Anyway a massive dry fire and I now have a bruise on my arm which looks like the Northern Lights - which we get here in the winter. This prompted me to buy a longer armguard. :)

However, I also took a look at my tab and wondered if it was a little on the small size. I have large hands. Reading a review on Merlin, one reviewer had similar problems, including the multi-coloured arm, and pinned it down to having a deep hook (like me) which then caused the nock to hit the tab plate and come off the string. The solution was to move the finger spacer forward, and hence the plate further back.

I'm going to give it a try but I'm not going to my usual session tomorrow as I want to give my arm as much chance as possible to resume normal service. It's not painful but certainly causes some interest.

Thanks
Colin
 

Newalpost

New member
Apologies for a delayed response but yesterday was the first time that I'd manage to get back on the range.

ThomVis.... thanks for the picture. Your tab is similar to mine although the finger material on mine is much longer and I'm reluctant to cut it back.

The good news is that moving the finger spacer forward and spreading the tab material further apart has helped. Also I'm more conscious of spreading my fingers on the string so as not to touch the nock. Not a single dry fire and not a single incident of the arrow coming off the rest.

So, I think this problem has been overcome - now to address all the others :)

Colin
 
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