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Thread: Arrows going left as the distance gets further out.

  1. #1
    In the Blue
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    Arrows going left as the distance gets further out.

    My arrows seem to be flying OK but I'm not performing quite as well outdoors compared to indoors. Indoors I shot nice chunky 2114 X7s. I got great grouping and good scores. If I was to be critical of the tuning of the arrow I would say that the fletching was always to the right of the point but I was getting good scores so left that alone.

    I use a different pressure button and string for outdoors (the string is identical but it allows me to adjust the nocking point).

    Whilst outdoors as I go further away I have to move my sight further left. The difference between 30m and 60m is enough to go from around the middle of the adjustment (Shibuya Ultima) to hitting the end before getting it back on the gold.

    According to the Easton charts the arrows I'm shooting should be right, however a bareshaft test also isn't great. At 10m and 20m the bareshaft lands to the left of the fletched group. At 30m it looks like it takes a left turn in the air and misses the boss altogether!

    I'm holding 38lbs OTF. Arrow length is approx 29.5". Arrows are ACC 620.

    It was suggested that using walkback or french tuning might be good to tune them better so that I don't get this moving left with distance.

    The only sort of test I did today was to set left and right for 60yards to get them in the middle - then shoot at 3yards which maintained the same left and right. They went high on the target but it was in line with the centre of the boss where I was aiming.


  3. #2
    It's an X I've taken part in an AIUK Ironman Shoot.The Fonz Award.AIUK subscriber. bimble's Avatar
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    Two other things to consider would be;
    is your sightbar parallel to the riser? If not you would want to straighten that up so your not adding windage by moving your sight up or down.

    and, are you holding the bow vertical when you shoot? If you're canting the bow one way or the other, that will send the arrows off as well.
    Knowing is half the battle, the other half is violence

  4. #3
    It's an X I've taken part in an AIUK Ironman Shoot.The Fonz Award.AIUK subscriber. Timid Toad's Avatar
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    You are right handed? Your arrows are too stiff. The Easton chart is only a guide. Tuning at anything less than 30m gives poor, sometimes false results. It's much more reliable at 30m. (How many times have I said this now???)
    What's the point weight of your ACCs? A major tweak *might* show a small difference.
    "Time is an illusion. Lunchtime doubly so." Douglas Adams

  5. #4
    In the Blue LionOfNarnia's Avatar
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    Hope this gets a solution. coz I've noticed the opposite in the last 2 weeks.

    Well I say opposite, it's sort of exactly the same only I start at 60 yds & work back (Windsor rounds) By the time I get to 40yds I'm cranked against the stop to the right. Pretty sure the sight is fine (Avalon Tec X) & I'm deffo not canting. I've never had the chance to do any bareshaft checks though. The bow was set up by Merlin.
    "Cavete ira Leonis"

  6. #5
    In the Blue
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    Yes I'm right handed.

    Yes I think the arrows might be a little stiff.

    No I'm not canting and had someone check this today.

    Point weight is 102gn. Should I try increasing this? If so what to?

    Sight bar is parallel to the riser, the amount it moves would have to be a very bent bar and would be easily noticeable. It did it with my previous sight and I've just upgraded to a Shibuya sight and it still does it.

    (Sorry for the sharp sounding responses - they weren't intended to be - It's just that I wrote it all out then it failed to submit - so made them short and sweet this time )

  7. #6
    In the Black
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    Another vote for "sounds too stiff" I had a similar experience a few years back when shooting 500 ACCs selected from the chart - the bareshafts at 30m were just on the left edge of the boss after seeing a big kick left (I also shoot RH) - My limb bolts were already most of the way in, so I ended up going a full spine weaker (560s) to get the 30m bareshafts into the group. There's no way to prove it was because of the spine change, but my average scores for the rest of that outdoor season were noticeably better than beforehand.

    One thing the charts don't cover is limb type - the same weight on the fingers from a light fast 68" limb is likely to give you a significantly different arrow speed to a basic glass 70" limb - and so will likely need a different spine - but both limbs would be the same "T" number on the charts!

    In terms of tweaking what you have, then as well as adding weight up front, if you can lose any weight from the back (spinnies instead of plastic vanes / no wrap / shorter serving / etc..) then that will also help them act a bit weaker - I've found weight at the back seems to have more effect than the same weight change at the front, but end weight isn't going to move them half a boss.

    Alternatively you could maybe get a couple of weaker bareshafts made up and see if they perform better.

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