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Thread: bare shaft tuning wooden arrows

  1. #1
    In the White
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    Exclamation bare shaft tuning wooden arrows

    My Oak Ridge Dymond recurve trad bow is 50lbs on the fingers at full draw 29" (45lbs at 28"). According to the spine charts I should be using 60/65 arrows 11/32 size with 5 inch feathers, 125 gr points (Henry Bodnick chart). Following several YouTube and other sources about bare shaft tuning I have tried to do this but firing a 32" bare shaft into the target at 3 yards I get a big nock left. I have cut nearly 2 inches off it and still get a big nock left. When fired from 7 yards they snap. Fletched with 5" feathers at 31.50" (point tip to nock groove - actual shaft is 30.25") they fly OK but obviously the 5" parabolic feathers are doing their job but how much better could they be if they didn't have to do so much correcting? Should I go to 65/70 arrows - that seems over the top for a 50lb bow; lighter points is an option but that would make the arrows very light. Any advice please?

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    In the Blue
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    I have shot POC, Sitka and Douglas Fir for years out of Border and various other recurves. I have yet to see any bare shaft come out of my bows straight, regardless of spine allowance. Like yourself, anything over 10yds just snaps the shaft. I personally think bare shafting woods from a recurve is a waste of time IMO. I have always calculated my arrow spine (past centre cut bow) by bow weight plus 5lb at 28inch then add 5lb for every inch of shaft over 28inch or subtract 5lb for every inch under 28inch, working with a 100g pile. This has always given me a great place to start and then fine tuning of fletched shafts with either a decrease or increase of pile weight. I did once just to see, bare shafted a 85lb spine surewood shaft cut to 28inch with a 100g pile from a 44lb Border CH recurve. 15yds to boss and the arrow hit hugely nock left and snapped! That was the last time I ever tried to BS woodies.

  4. The Following User Says Thank You to RMH For This Useful Post:

    Michael Burrows (09-02-19)

  5. #3
    It's an X Del the Cat's Avatar
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    @RMH
    A refreshing post! I totally agree
    Too much reliance is placed on charts, and IMO bare shaft testing is daft... try asking a test pilot to try a new plane before you've put on the tailplane
    People need to do their own experiments more, then we may get more informed opinions, better understanding and fewer "armchair experts"

    An interesting test is to lightly grip a bare shaft at its centre between two small soft blocks in a vice. Pull back the ends an inch or so and release. It will oscillate for several seconds.
    So the chance of a bare shaft hitting anything straight on at close range is minimal!
    Del
    Health Warning:- These posts may contain traces of nut.

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    In the White
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    Interesting and yet here is just one example of it being done https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IGOPiriLbcM&t=388s

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    In the Blue
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    I have watched many examples of BS tuning woodies but have never been able to replicate it myself. I have tried hugely over spined arrow shafts for a bow, all with pretty much the same results, massively weak at 15-20yds. For me drawing 29inch I always ended up around 10-15lb spine above bow weight and as previously said, fine tuned with pile weight using Tophat shaft adaptors allowing screw in points.

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    It's an X
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    We have a new archer at the club where I shoot. He has gone into barebow and trad bow with wooden arrows. His fletched arrows shoot 1 foot right of his aiming point at 20y ( left handed archer.)
    He tried bare shafts and they were almost perpendicular to the boss, but not so close to his fletched ones. They were nearer his aiming point.( if I have remembered correctly)

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