Centre Shot In Line With String

dvd8n

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Is there any reason why setting my centre shot of my arrow dead in line with string is wrong?

My last tuning session ended up with my arrow like this and I've never had an issue, but every tuning guide that I've ever read says that the point should be to the left.

Does it matter?
 

bimble

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if it works, no. The 'point to the left' is only a starting position that works for *most*, but that doesn't mean it's the be all and end all.
 

Rik

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Basically, the combination of centre-shot and button tension has a range of solutions, not normally just one.
So if you find one with centre-shot inline, that's not a problem. It's considered more normal to find one that's outside of line (hence "should be to the left", not "shall be").
What matters is the results.

Tuning guides tend to be aimed at the average results, and, sometimes, state as fact things which are simply someone's opinion or conjecture (or that most useless of things - concensus).
 

geoffretired

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Could the idea of needing to be outside have stemmed from the thinking that if the button compressed at the start of the power stroke, then the front of the arrow would move inside the centreline? Setting it outside would get the front about in line when the button compressed. I'm not saying that thinking is correct, just have a feeling I heard that idea way back when I started shooting.
 

WinBase

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I'm not really experienced enough to give anything definitive, but personally found when i first started tuning my bow with arrows a tad too stiff i had clearance issues, and found that moving centreshot to the left helped, but i would have thought that as with anything else in archery, theres no firm rules & if it works for you & your arrows fly well then thats the only thing that matters. PS i now have the correct spine and CS is is in the recommended starter 'just left' position and that works great (for me). GL
 

jerryRTD

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To me it is an indication that your arrows are a little on the stiff side. stiffer than the normal slackening of the button spring can accommodate.
 

dvd8n

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To me it is an indication that your arrows are a little on the stiff side. stiffer than the normal slackening of the button spring can accommodate.
I wondered that myself so I tried a bare shaft and it actually indicated weak shafts.

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To me it is an indication that your arrows are a little on the stiff side. stiffer than the normal slackening of the button spring can accommodate.
I wondered that myself so I tried a bare shaft and it actually indicated weak shafts.
 

jerryRTD

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I wondered that myself so I tried a bare shaft and it actually indicated weak shafts.
What method of tuning are you using that calls for adjustment of the centre shot?
best you go back and do a bare shaft tune with the centre shot set as Easton recommends and leave it there .
In answer to your question yes you are doing some thing wrong.
 

dvd8n

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What method of tuning are you using that calls for adjustment of the centre shot?
best you go back and do a bare shaft tune with the centre shot set as Easton recommends and leave it there .
In answer to your question yes you are doing some thing wrong.
Basically, a walk back test getting the arrows to fall vertically and in line with the middle of the sight window using button pressure and position.

- - - Updated - - -

What method of tuning are you using that calls for adjustment of the centre shot?
best you go back and do a bare shaft tune with the centre shot set as Easton recommends and leave it there .
In answer to your question yes you are doing some thing wrong.
Basically, a walk back test getting the arrows to fall vertically and in line with the middle of the sight window using button pressure and position.
 

jerryRTD

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That explains a lot. The problem with a walk back is that get a good result it has to be done on a dead calm day. Any side wind and the results are useless. Also the sight block must be kept in the same position or any errors due to the sight rail not be square will cause false results.
One other thing, how do you judge where the middle of the sight window is, a small change at the can produce a very large change at the target.
 

Rik

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Basically, a walk back test getting the arrows to fall vertically and in line with the middle of the sight window using button pressure and position.

- - - Updated - - -



Basically, a walk back test getting the arrows to fall vertically and in line with the middle of the sight window using button pressure and position.
Ah. Just remember that the stuff in walk-back guides about: "this pattern means change the pressure, and this pattern means move the button" is actually rubbish... pressure and centre-shot changes interact and you can get similar patterns by (for example) having your sight miss-set.
So you can set the centre-shot and adjust pressure, or set the pressure and adjust centre-shot, with similar results. Both approaches have been "standard" in the past.

Up to a point, you can say that for any particular centre-shot, there is a pressure which will work. Or vice versa.

For walk-back, I would generally just set a centre-shot, then adjust pressure to get a straight line (mostly because adjusting pressure is easier on the bow), only shifting centre-shot if I didn't like the pressure I was finishing with - too soft or hard. But recall that it only works right if you start out with the sight inline.
 

dvd8n

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I'm actually shooting Barebow. Sometimes I set up a temporary sight when tuning and sometimes I just eyeball it and make up for the inconsistency with lots of arrows.

My methodology was always to make the pattern vertical using the button position then shift it on the target using the pressure but was always aware that they interacted and had actually started to suspect that I could do it either way and have it work.

Anyway the last time that I did this the centre shot came out dead centre which I was happy with as it made referencing from the point easier on long shots but all the tuning guides say that it should be to the left......
 
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