Fletching arrows

SW41

New member
If I was to start fletching my arrows myself (new to this archery thing!) is it easy and what do I need?
 

Meddler

New member
If I was to start fletching my arrows myself (new to this archery thing!) is it easy and what do I need?
Yes.

Fletching jig
Fletching Glue
Fletchings
Depending on arrows : isopropyl alcohol, acetone
Knife (blunt)
Fine glasspaper
Time

Assuming you are using fletchings and not spin wings or similar...

Prepare arrow surface (clean and key)
Prepare fletching (clean and key)
Clamp fletching in jig clamp
Put arrow in jig
Thin line of glue along the foot of the fletching
Put fletching clamp on jig
Stick fletching on arrow
Allow glue to dry and start again from prepare fletching, until required number of fletchings are on arrow.
If you have another arrow to fletch, start from prepare arrow surface....

Easy peasy. :cheerful:
 

grimsby archer

New member
Yes.

Depending on arrows : isopropyl alcohol, acetone

Fine glasspaper
Time

Easy peasy. :cheerful:
unless you are shooting carbons, (accs, aces etcs) in which case swap the isopropyl alcohol for vodka and washing up liquid. Use the washing up liquid on the arrows to remove grease and drink the vodka!
Also, dont use superglue on carbons as it gets very hot.
also, dont use superglue after drinking vodka as it makes it difficult to put fletchngs,arrows, fletching jigs, glue bottles etc down afterwards
 

ThePinkOne

New member
Yes.

Fletching jig
Fletching Glue
Fletchings
Depending on arrows : isopropyl alcohol, acetone
Knife (blunt)
Fine glasspaper
Time

Assuming you are using fletchings and not spin wings or similar...

Prepare arrow surface (clean and key)
Prepare fletching (clean and key)
Clamp fletching in jig clamp
Put arrow in jig
Thin line of glue along the foot of the fletching
Put fletching clamp on jig
Stick fletching on arrow
Allow glue to dry and start again from prepare fletching, until required number of fletchings are on arrow.
If you have another arrow to fletch, start from prepare arrow surface....

Easy peasy. :cheerful:
What the Meddler hasn't said is that though the process is easy the neatness takes practice....... still, after two or three doz you get the neatness knack plus as you fletch all of the set on one jig you in theory have more consistency although personally I've never been convinced my shooting is good enough to notice the difference!

Also, if you use vinyl wraps on carbons they have 2 advantages: (1) you can fletch using fletching cement and it sets quickly and stronger bond and (2) makes removing fletchings so much easier and quicker with less arrow damage..... and they come in PINK :D :D :D

I have to admit, although I've fletched lots of arrows in my time, all types- carbons, alis, woods with plastic vanes, spinwings, feathers using various fletching glues and tape- the one thing I've never mastered is getting that superglue fletching gel to look neat with no excess glue and no white residue.

P.
 

TWIW

New member
If I was to start fletching my arrows myself (new to this archery thing!) is it easy and what do I need?
Arten fletching jig.
And Superglue. (Works on carbons too, if used sparingly)

Put arrow in jig

Put fletch in the jig so the rear of the fletch is about 3/4" from the base of the nock. (mark the clamp with this position so all your arrows go in the same place)

Put a thin line of superglue on the base of the fletch.

Clip the clamp to the jig and push the clamp firmly but gently against the shaft of the arrow.

Leave for 30 seconds

Open the clamp and slide away from the new fletch/arrow.

Rotate the jig to the next fletch position.

Repeat above until the arrow is fletched.

Colin
 

10x

New member
I have to admit, although I've fletched lots of arrows in my time, all types- carbons, alis, woods with plastic vanes, spinwings, feathers using various fletching glues and tape- the one thing I've never mastered is getting that superglue fletching gel to look neat with no excess glue and no white residue.

P.
That's because you put too much on. Don't run a whole bead of glue along the vane, just put small dots of glue on the glue surface and then run the glue nozzle along it to spread the glue evenly. Whilst the vane is still in the clamp and pressed against the arrow shaft run a Q-tip along the join to remove the excess on both sides.
 

oncea

New member
Carbon Arrow

I am surprised that no one has told you sand the surface of vains so just before you put you glue on the vain give it a light rub down with some light course sand paper as this will give the vain a rough base for the glue to adhere do this to the arrow as well and your vains will stay on the arrow alot longer.
Plus dont buy any expensive tools to get vains off a stanley knife will work just as good lightly glide it along the arrow and under the vain and as sure as eggs are eggs it will come off and a couple of more times to remove the stubborn edges

:cheerful:
 

wingate_52

Active member
Most quality plastic vanes have a concave surface and are clean and ready to glue to the shaft. They dont need rubbing with fine abrasive mine dont, and mine stick. As regard superglue. I use ?Shop superglue, 9 or 12 tubes to the?. A small droplet applied at one end of the vane will run down the vane spreading itself. No spreading by nozzle or finger required. Follow the instructions from "thewayitwas"
 

oncea

New member
Carbon arrows

Most quality plastic vanes do have a concave surface and are clean but smooth surface to smooth surface dont normally bond well thats why its allway advisable to slighty roughen the surface it gives the glue something to grip on to weather its fleathing glue or super glue you use.
:cheerful:
 
Last edited:

phil_r_58

Supporter
Supporter
Ironman
This thread was done ages ago, but I will offer some of my tips again.

Stanley knife blades are quite thick, and can dig into carbons. Most good hardware shops sell the Stanley safety razor blades. They are a very thin, very sharp razor blade, with a stiff metal spine. They cut through old glue easily.

Preparing the shaft. I urge you to try this one, it really, really works on both allys and carbon. Use old fashioned vim scouring powder. It is so much finer than sand paper.
  1. Dampen a clean soft cloth.
  2. Using cloth wrapped round finger tip, dip into vim and rub the fletch area gently, 4 or 5 times.
  3. Rinse off under a tap. Dry with a piece of clean kitchen towel.
  4. Do not touch that part of shaft with fingers at all.

  • The ammonia removes grease
  • The fine powder keys even Carbons gently.

The acid test is to drip a bit of water on the cleaned shaft. If it forms droplets, there is grease still on the surface. If it forms a thin film, the shaft is totally grease free, and has a good keying area for the adhesive.
 
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