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Thread: Nocking Point Tuning

  1. #1
    In the Gold
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    Nocking Point Tuning

    I have just been reading a reply my friend received from an archery retailer with regard to bow tuning.

    He was advised to set the bow with +6mm tiller BUT with a string that allowed only 1 - 4 mm of the lower string groove showing.

    Bare shafts are not used! Instead shoot for groups at 30 yd/m and adjust the nocking point for the best groups. Then twist the string to gradually increase the brace height, but keep the nocking point the same as previously found, until he got the best groups and a quiet bow.

    Has anyone come across this method? All the articles/books I have read say use bare shafts.

    Out of curiosity I made a string with a single loop and a bowyers knot that allowed me to get that setup. My brace height was (initially) 6 1/2" on my Fiberbow (recommended is 8 1/2" - 9 1/4")!

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  3. #2
    It's an X Whitehart's Avatar
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    You can only tune nocking point height with a "balanced" bareshaft test as this also takes into consideration hand pressure, torque and stabiliser set up and will tell you if your arrow spine is tuneable.

    IMO anything that is just about a number is just a starting point to work from, as is how much limb groove is showing when the bow is braced but this again is just an observation/starting point for bracing height and looking at the pretension profile of the limbs.

    There is no substitute for actually doing it rather than looking for short cuts.

  4. #3
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    The method seems like it is designed for bows with no pressure button, unless it is just a way to set nocking point and brace height. The end result will be the setting that produces best groups which would seem to be a good thing. I wonder why nocking point is set first then brace height afterwards. Would a final test after that be to move the nocking point a little at a time to see if a better position can be found after setting the bh?

  5. #4
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    I found it strange a way to setup a recurve bow (with a button fitted).

  6. #5
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    From starting archery in 1982, I have Been fascinated by the whole process that is often called " tuning".
    The initial setting up of a bow, is usually done in the shop, by the seller, so the new archer ( me) at one time, could shoot the bow.

    I shot the bow and chose the one I liked and thought nothing more about it. If I had been given a new string I would have fitted the nocking point so the arrow was at 90 deg. not 3mm above square.I would have set the button so the arrow was on the centre line of the bow, not 3mm out from centre. The bow would have shot well enough I feel. But experience has shown ( of other archers, not much experience) that 3mm above square and 3mm out from centre works better for most archers.
    That is good enough but, there is always a doubt that it is the best it can be for any individual. That doubt brings us to the stage where we want to find out for ourselves, if there is a better set up. What we do then is , I suppose trial and error or trial and improve.What changes do we try. What changes can we try?
    Just about anything, really! Change fletchings! Fletch angles! Brace height! Tiller difference. Centre shot! Button stiffness! Draw weight!
    We could try all of these variables, and test the results. If we use bare shafts during some of those tests, we may see changes more easily. We may be more convinced by those results because they are so clear.(usually).But in the end we will use fletched arrows to test what happens in the real shooting environment.
    How many variables we use and how many arrows we shoot during testing, is up to us! It depends on how seriously we approach such matters.

  7. #6
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    but then there are the tuning processes that dont stand up to scrutiny.
    Too many people regurgitate the litany because they were told by someone else.

    There are much myth and myth-information, sorry misinformation in the black arts of archery.

    My favourite is paper tuning, which was sited by many as the way to tune a recurve. A well tuned recurve will produce a single "bullet hole" they said. But if you consider how an arrow flies (archers paradox etc) if an arrow is flexed at the point it reaches the paper it can't possibly produce anything other than a tear, a rip, something that is NOT a bullet hole.

    Walkback tuning is 50% mystery to me. Sure, if the pressure button is set up in such a way that it makes the arrow fly to the left (or right) of center, it will progressively fly further and further left (or right) as the distance increases, but many of the proponents of walkback tuning talk of achieving a curve in the pattern of arrows on the boss. I admit i've never seen this, I've unsuccessfully tried to achieve it by untuning/detuning a bow. I can't grasp bow an arrow can possibly fly significantly left, then suddenly, over some predetermined distance, return to center. The arrow must change direction mid flight. How can that happen?

    I have a camera which is capable of 1000 fps video and have spent some time trying to observe how an arrow flies as it leaves the bow, because, to me, that is the essence of bow tuning. Whatever happens after that is a result of what happened before and/or as the arrow left the bow.

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