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Thread: Trad. recurve nock point height?

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    Trad. recurve nock point height?

    I shoot a Bodnik Mohawk traditional recurve (37.5# @ 30.5") split finger with a glove - and I'm trying to set up some new arrows...

    I've been using Easton power flight 400s, with 125gr points and 5" feathers (that I was previously using at 45# on hybrid limbs, same bow, with 80gr points in), and I find them heavy and a bit stiff for the lighter bow. So...

    I'm moving to Bearpaw Penthalon Slimline 500s with slimline break-off 125gr (nothing broken off) points, slimline nocks, 3" feathers and cut half an inch shorter than the power flights, in an effort to regain some of the speed I had at 45# - and that's working out great.

    I think the spine of the arrow is okay - they're going right where I point them around the 3D course at a good range of distances, and the bow is much quieter with them too - but I was getting porpoising at the same nock point height of 5/16" as the power flights. Adjusting down (for the slimmer arrow..?) didn't make any difference, so I've gone up and it's only at a full 1/2" above square that the vertical movement is noticeably reduced, and they fly better again if I turn the index feather in rather than out. And it still could be a bit better really.

    As I say, there's no side to side movement that I can tell (maybe just because they are going up and down so much?), but that nock height seems very high to me, especially as I feel I could go another 1/16 and improve it further. Is it too high?

    Could spine be an issue? I've got some leeway with point weight and shaft length (I've only cut and fletched two so far), but I don't want to start messing with them if that isn't the problem.

    thanks in anticipation

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    It's an X KidCurry's Avatar
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    I think my first step would be to bare shaft test to see for certain what is happening and also look at the FOC to make sure you are not too far forward.
    An archers only opponent is his mind.

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    Thanks I'll check those things out Can you recommend a good distance for bare shaft - is 20 yards okay or should I bring it closer?

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    In the Black Lammas's Avatar
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    I would suggest at least two distances, like 10 and 20 yards.
    If the arrow is still fishtailing and you hit the zero-crossing point of that oscillation, you fool yourself.

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    It's an X I've taken part in an AIUK Ironman Shoot.The Fonz Award.AIUK subscriber. Timid Toad's Avatar
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    Yes, the further away you can get and still be confident of your accuracy - if you were a sighted recurver I'd recommend 30 yards. If you can manage that it would be perfect.
    "Time is an illusion. Lunchtime doubly so." Douglas Adams

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    Quote Originally Posted by Lammas View Post
    If the arrow is still fishtailing and you hit the zero-crossing point of that oscillation, you fool yourself.
    Don't understand what that means... but I can certainly try a couple of distances and see what happens. thanks

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