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Thread: Arrow Saw Warning

  1. #13
    In the Blue
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Thanked 21 Times in 21 Posts
    After having heaps of the thin disks break in the club arrow saw, one of the guys went and got a regular metal cut off thin blade at the local hardware shop. It was way too big to fit, so we elected to wear it down somewhat. Eventually, we discovered that a besser block got it hot enough to wear it down pretty quickly, which makes sense when you consider that there are steel and masonry disks for a reason.
    I didn't bother to look too closely as to why disks were breaking, but I noticed that the vacuum was plugged directly into the end of the saw cover.
    What happens is that this makes the cut off arrow shaft get sucked into the guard which then breaks the disks.


  3. #14
    In the Red
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Thanked 52 Times in 43 Posts
    there are 3 common types of blade that you gan get, aluminium oxide with a resin bond, aluminium oxide with a rubber bond and silicon carbide with a resin bond. They are all prone to this sort of shattering, the rubber ones being slightly more forgiving but wear out quicker. The flanges holding the blade should be as large as possible and only grip on the outer edge, not across their entire diameter. The other alternative is to buy a diamond coated blade, these can be cheap electrobonded on to steel or go for the ones that are sintered rim which have a bigger kerf. They like being cooled with water or other fluid, if you are worried about your electrics paraffin is brilliant for cooling when cutting aluminium as it eliminates the binding and snatching but you can use a light vegetable oil or clock oil or evebn a dash of WD40.

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