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Thread: Bow query

  1. #7
    It's an X Corax67's Avatar
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    Nov 2014
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    Heat and humidity - yes

    You don’t leave a longbow in the car in warm weather and most of us unstrung between distances at comps. I choose not to shoot mine at temperatures below 5 degrees but others in our club do.


    Not as precise - hmmm.... compared to a compound you won’t get as many golds at 100yds but I’ve duffed up many a barebow and recurve archers scores with my trusty stick & string over the last few years.


    40# is a lot of recurve - I’ve been shooting a fair few years and normally use only 36# limbs that comfortably get me to 100yds. My longbow is a 50# draw @ 28” to achieve the same distance but the draw cycle on both is very different.



    Karl
    I meant to do that - honest ! !

  2. #8
    In the Green
    Join Date
    May 2019
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    8
    Being naturally strong will not help you much in drawing a bow well. Many people stay in the mid thirties recurve as a compromise between good form and getting the arrow down the field. I would guess you are drawing more with your arms rather than your back particularly if you try a higher weight bow. A few months or more in the mid to high twenties really is a good idea, and after that try drawing wrong handed and you will see how difficult it is (which would not be the case if natural strength could do it for you).

  3. #9
    A few of my clubmates bought Samick Sages for a bit of barebow fun. Cheap and the limbs are available in lots of poundages. Only downside is that it's not ILF so you'd have to stick to the specific limbs.

  4. #10
    In the Green
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    Jun 2019
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    Weirdly I found drawing from my back the natural way to do it but I suspect until I push it more it wont be obvious if I am doing it correctly. I definitely fancy something like a Sage but maybe it might be best to get a 2nd hand ilf bow with a site and sell that off at a later date.

  5. #11
    In the Blue
    LionOfNarnia's Avatar
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    Aug 2016
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    LOL if you sell off bows you're not a real archer - judging by the collections some people around here have

    I'm a big strong guy, former semi-pro sportsman & I started at 30lbs. Currently shooting 36lbs (after about a year) but have 40lb Core Hit (screw-on) limbs on my first bow just for strength/endurance training. When I'm totally comfortable with that weight, I'll get 44 or 46lb limbs for my ILF riser. Then use them for training. I won't be shooting with them until next spring. I doubt I'll ever go much higher than that!

    Also bear in mind that indoors, at 20yds, a heavy bow will make arrows hard to get out of the targets.

    There are NO extra points for the weight you can draw!

    The only thing that counts is how well you shoot - that means good coaching, targeted training & lots & lots & lots of practice.
    "Cavete ira Leonis"

  6. #12
    In the Green
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    Jun 2019
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    That is true for indoor lower poundage makes more sense. As for selling it depends more on what I can find to buy, if I can get something like a nice Hoyt (not sure why but I like the look of them more than anything) then it will probably stay for life but if I get something not as nice or that I dont get on with it makes sense to trade it for something else like a field bow etc that I would use more. My theory was to try and get a recurve of a similar power to a long bow (40 -50 pounds seems like the right amount for on e of those) so it was less of a change shooting the different bows at the different times of year etc but perhaps that was one of those idea s you have before you learn how little you actually know.

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