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Thread: vane hitting shelf

  1. #1
    In the White
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    vane hitting shelf

    I am seeing witness marks on the shelf of my riser where a vane is hitting it - marks pretty much full length on the shelf. This appears to be pretty much every arrow and I am assuming it isn't just bad form (although I could be proved wrong!).
    At the moment I am just getting used to the bow so not ready for proper tuning yet but it would be nice to understand the cause for when I get to that point.

    So, what is likely to be causing it? From reading around I get the impression nock point too low or perhaps a low brace height? Is this right?

    for info, the bow is basically untuned (just very basic setup at the shop), brace height is just over 22cm (70" bow, according to the manual that is at the bottom of the range) and nock point is about 3mm above horizontal). Rest is a hoyt superest, no pressure button yet.

  2. #2
    It's an X Del the Cat's Avatar
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    Raise your nocking point 4mm.
    This allows the arrow to leave the bow fractionally nock high, to give clearance and avoid feathers sticking in your hand if you are a longbow archer.
    Its flight will settle very quickly, if you see the arrow porpoising, then you've gone too high.
    Del
    Health Warning:- These posts may contain traces of nut.

  3. #3
    In the White
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    Quote Originally Posted by Del the Cat View Post
    Raise your nocking point 4mm.
    This allows the arrow to leave the bow fractionally nock high, to give clearance and avoid feathers sticking in your hand if you are a longbow archer.
    Its flight will settle very quickly, if you see the arrow porpoising, then you've gone too high.
    Del
    Thanks, I suspected that would be the answer. I have read that I should tune the brace height before the nocking point. Is that correct?

  4. #4
    It's an X Del the Cat's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by brman View Post
    Thanks, I suspected that would be the answer. I have read that I should tune the brace height before the nocking point. Is that correct?
    The trick is to expect to do everything more than once...
    I don't actually shoot modern type bows with rests. I make wooden bows, which often require some fiddling and fettling to match bow to arrow to archer.
    The key to all this stuff is to understand why and how it all works. Even the humble wooden longbow is a lot more complicated than people imagine.
    Experiment with small changes, become your own expert.
    Del
    Health Warning:- These posts may contain traces of nut.

  5. #5
    In the Black Lammas's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by brman View Post
    ... and I am assuming it isn't just bad form (although I could be proved wrong!).
    ...
    Albeit form could play a role.
    Inconsistent release (like index finger too early or too late) could cause similar problems.
    I would do an initial bareshaft tuning to figure out the optimal nocking point position, and shoot a bareshaft now and then.

  6. #6
    It's an X
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    Tuning brace height first or nocking point first??
    I would say nocking point first, for two reasons. 1) it is more than likely too low and needing to be adjusted. 2) when you get it right you will know, specially if you use a bareshaft to check.
    If you tune brace height it is not always obvious when that is in the best position. Trying to find a best position when the arrow is rubbing the shelf won't help. The brace height may not need to change anyway.

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