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Thread: New bow

  1. #1
    In the Gold WillS's Avatar
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    New bow

    I'm posting this as it was a really strange and interesting little bow to make.

    It came from a very dodgy stave - natural deflex, lots of knots, VERY low rpi count (5 or 6 rings to the inch for most of it) and some spalting / rot in the middle. As I reduced the very thick sapwood to a sensible thickness, I was pretty annoyed to suddenly find a load of heartwood showing through the back - occasionally yew does this, and you get areas much thinner/thicker than you expect. There's not much you can do, but I did think of laying a thin slice of sapwood over the area, a la Del!

    There was also a big deflex dip in the upper limb on the natural stave. I used heat to pull this out and straighten the bow, but I obviously didn't get the heat deep enough, as it pulled out pretty quickly. It shows in the tiller a bit, and gives the bow a slightly unrealistic amount of set - the actual bow hardly took any at all (I think around .5") but that deflex limb looks kinda ugly.

    It was supposed to be around 50# for my partner, who needed to practice her 32" draw for future warbow shoots, so I roughed it out to what I predicted would give me something around 60lbs, to allow for tweaking on the tiller and finishing etc.

    Once I'd got the limbs bending evenly on the bench vice, and got it braced, it felt quite a bit heavier than 50-60lbs...

    So here it is. English yew. 105lbs at 32". Makes no sense, but it does show the variability of yew, and how you can never assume things when working with wood! The area where the sapwood back was so violated that heartwood was showing through is sound, and solid and shows no sign of lifting a splinter or breaking. There are also plenty of knots and pins all over the back and sides but these are good and sound as well. It really is a bizarre little bow that breaks just about every rule of bow making there is.

    Here's some pics of the stave before I got it down to bow dimensions, and the finished bow. It has Tudor sidenocks as well, as I've finally worked these out properly and will be using them on all my bows from now on. I think they're much cleaner and smarter than Victorian nocks, and they're miles easier to use as well.












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  3. #2
    It's an X blakey's Avatar
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    Great job Will. Looks really good. I'm interested in the side nocks. Are they on opposite sides at each end of the bow? I've been meaning to try some, but have run out of staves. I'll give them a go soon I hope.

  4. #3
    In the Gold WillS's Avatar
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    Thanks mate!

    Yep, they're both on the right hand side, if you're looking at the nock from the bows back. When holding the bow, the top side nock is on your left, and the bottom on the right. The string tracks very slightly diagonally but it's not noticeable. It allows you to push/pull some much heavier weights without a stringer, and of course is far more historically accurate.

    Remember to cut them at an angle, not straight in, and go right into the wood inside the nock.

    Good luck! It took me a couple of tries but worked eventually. Post some pics of yours, would love to see them!

  5. #4
    It's an X Del the Cat's Avatar
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    Nice one from a challenging stave .
    Maybe now you'll stop droning on about high ring count, high altitude Italian Yew? (gasp!)
    Del
    Health Warning:- These posts may contain traces of nut.

  6. #5
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    Nice hat and beard you got there

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jackroberts94 View Post
    Nice hat and beard you got there

    What at did you glueon the back of the bow there, was it some red Oak or something? And your "partner" shoots heavy bows at 32 inch draw lengths aswell. You both must be strong dudes and done a lot of shooting.

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