Arrow falling from rest shibuya



New member
Hi all,

Hope you're doing very well. i have been seeing post of this forum for many years now, and now im in the position of needing help from all of you. Sorry in advance for the extension of my explanation,but i want to be as specific asI can to be clear

I have been shooting recurve for many years now. The last setup im using, i have been using it for almost 1 year. This is my setup

right handed
limbs winex 40# long

riser gmx 25

Rest shibuya magnetic

plunger shibuya

arrows ace 470 29.5 vanes spin wing 1 3/4 and points tophat 140 (used normal break off 120)

string 8125

As i mentioned, i have been using this setup for almost a year, and before that i was using 520 and maybe less poundage. The problem started a few weeks ago, after shooting a weekend with no issues at all (with everything calibrated as i shooted the previous week a 600 points at 70 meters), I returned the next weekend, and just to check, shooted at 30 mts (32 yards) to check calibration. Then i figured out that my unfletched arrows were landing as stiff, and also figured out that one of the vanes was getting ripped off (a picture of my vanes position, the one broken was the upper one)


I ripped off many arrows that time and started to desperate. Nothing was changed in the bow, and the unfletched arrows landed about 30cm to the left of the fletched ones. a friend recorded me in slowmotion and we figured out that the arror was pussing the rest to the inside (in half of the arrow after the release) so the vane was getting in the way of the magnetic piece of the rest). below a footage of the slowmotion video (please note that i have to add a tape in the riser to prevent damage to the bow and the vanes)

Screenshot_20220612-230215~2.png Screenshot_20220612-230224~2.png

as can be seen in the fourth picture, the arrow falls below the plunger lvl, because the arrow is "pushing" down and the rest goes inside, and then the magnetiv piece gets opened far before the vane passes, so it get ripped off by that piece. After that, i tried to correct the button and everything yo get the arrows group again (fletched and unfletched) but the arrows keep doing the same.

So far, i have tried this:

-get the nocking point higher (up to 1/2 inch)

-change the rest arm and also move it

-change limbs

-change tiller to neutral and even negative

-try anoher person shooting my bow (same result)

-changed plunger spring to the softer

-tried differents arrows with different spines (same result with anyone)

-changed rest to hoyt super rest (this was worse, because the arm of this rest is softer and the arrow went lower than before)

I also moved the nock. As the arrow goes down, i found out that the vane pointing below started to ripped off, as it touches the lowest part of the bow window.

any suggestions of what could be happening? i have never had something like this happening before, i have been using ACE and spin wing from many years now, and never have a problem like this. I wouldn't want to change my riser, is the last thing im thinking of, but realy dont want to.


Timid Toad

Staff member
Fonz Awardee
If you'd just started using those arrows my first reaction would be that they are too stiff. Rear end coming in and dropping low is usually an overly stiff shaft and 40lbs (you don't say what the poundage is on your fingers guessing 42-44) that might be the case. There's a lot else that could have changed - alignment, bolt adjustment positions, tiller, your tab facing wearing out, your form changing slightly, that could cause this too.
It's possible the rest arm has suffered some damage, so I would consider changing that first.


Well-known member
Hard to give blind advice on something like this - from the pictures it is impossible to see where in The power stroke the arrow is coming off the rest. My mind was straying to the rest… until you said it does the same with a Hoyt Pro rest. And you say you shot 600 at 70m with this bow/these arrows/this setup. So…

Most likely culprit is the archer. Finger or tab contact on the nock or shaft? Is it every arrow or just some? With finger contact it is most likely to get worse because you get annoyed/angry/confused. (Been there myself…) Does it happen if you shoot without the clicker? Does it happen with a different tab?

If it is not that… If the rest is collapsing through the shot (with now finger/tab contact) then you surely want to try a lower nocking point as well as the higher one?

Nock tension on the string could also cause erratic behaviour (too tight or too slack) but that doesn’t seem likely to have worn out that quickly (from the 600) Or be this dramatic.



Well-known member
AIUK Saviour
If I was seeing that result, I've seen a lot worse from very good archers, I would go back to the beginning. Strip everything down and start setup from the beginning. Set limb tiller to 1/4 inch positive, 1/4 inch high nock, top end brace height about 9 1/4 inches, arrow centre shot. Good serving/nock fit. Balanced stab setup, not overly front/back heavy. Basically a complete setup process from scratch.
French tune for better setup then tune bow to arrows for nock height and spine at 30m.
Now check for button/rest clearance and the sound of the bow. I have found with good tune the back of the arrow should be no where near the rest, but you can get good tune with virtually no clearance, just not ideal when something changes.
I would then French tune and repeat a couple of times adjusting tiller up to 1/2 inch high and down to zero. This linear process would take me a week shooting each day and I don't think there are any real short cuts.
My gut says stiff arrow and incorrect tiller combination but I would still start from the beginning. I'm probably telling you how to suck eggs but I think it sometimes needs a truly methodical approach with no short cuts.
Oh... and relaxed bow hand and relaxed bow follow through. I can see the same chap through the riser in the pictures so the riser seems very static during the release.
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