arrows going left?

indegold

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My arrows want to go left increasingly with distance. Would I be right in thinking that this is a spine issue (spec. arrows to stiff?) I have checked: sight picture; ensured sight bat is parallel to riser; not canting bow; arrow slightly left of string, button soft 70" GMX RH with UUkha limbs 36", ACE arrows 30.52 ~40/41 OTF I am considering going down a spine to ACE 570 and I did read that this is common with UUKha limbs. Just wanting to know if there could be other reasons before I fork out on a new set of ACEs.
 


geoffretired

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When you set up your sight at short distance, if it is slightly wrong, then as you move back, the mistake shows up more and more. If you shoot at longer distance and then adjust the sight to bring arrows to centre, you can shoot shorter and shorter distances to see what happens.
Bareshaft testing is the best way to judge whether arrows are stiff, weak or a good match.
 


Timid Toad

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Have you bare shaft tuned at 30m? That's the starting point. Don't spend a penny until you've done that!
Then check you don't cant the bow or torque it (twist the riser right or left in your hand at full draw).
 


JamesP

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Have you bare shaft tuned at 30m? That's the starting point. Don't spend a penny until you've done that! Then check you don't cant the bow or torque it (twist the riser right or left in your hand at full draw).
I agree with Timid Toad. It sounds like it may be just a minor tuning issue to me. Shoot a group at 30m, and shoot some bareshafts as well. If the bareshafts land to the left of the group, turn your pressure button maybe 1/8 to 1/4 turns and try again. Fine tune until they group.
If the 30m bareshaft tune is fine, walk back to ~50m and try again, because there may just be a very minor tuning issue.
If both are fine, and the problem persists, then you can look at whether there is a more serious equipment or form issue that needs solving. Getting a friend or coach to watch (or even film) your form as you shoot will often help pick up any inconsistencies or issues like canting or torquing. If they spot something, then you won't need to spend anything but time practicing.
 


AndyS

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Supporter
arrow slightly left of string
How far is "arrow slightly left of string"? You could maybe have a little too much centre-shot - I think ACEs generally need setting closer to in-line because they are barreled and so are sitting on a slightly smaller diameter at brace height than they are at full draw.
 


AJBrady

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<p>
How far is "arrow slightly left of string"? You could maybe have a little too much centre-shot - I think ACEs generally need setting closer to in-line because they are barreled and so are sitting on a slightly smaller diameter at brace height than they are at full draw.
The reverse surely? They are fatter in the middle than at the ends.</p>
 


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AndyS

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The reverse surely? They are fatter in the middle than at the ends.[/FONT]
But not symmetrical -I've just put a micrometer on one of my wife's ACE 670s (cut to 28 inches) and diameters are (approx) Front 5.25mm, Centre 5.33mm, 8inches from nock (approx position at brace height) 5.20mm, nock end 5.15mm So at brace height the diameter is approx 5.2, but for the first few inches of release (the only time that centreshot affects the arrow flight) the diameter is somewhere between 5.25 & 5.33 - so the arrow is pointing slightly further left than a parallel shaft would be for the same initial adjustment - I believe that on stiffer spines the effect is more pronounced. Whatever the reasoning, I've seen this suggestion (reduced centre shot for X10 / ACE) from much more knowledgeable sources than me, such as "Online Archery Academy"
 


Timid Toad

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Suggestions for centreshot are just that: suggestions. Only a starting point and where it ends up for a good tune is right. No matter what the shaft. I shoot X10s with a wholes shaft's worth of gap between the string and the shaft for clout - ie the arrow points waaaay outside the bow - and they tune beautifully. Other X10s for other purposes, virtually dead centre.
 


AJBrady

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Thanks for that explanation Andy. I'm sure I'd never be able to see .05mm (or even 0.5!!) difference in centre shot. But it does explain the problems a colleague had when a retailer trimmed some replacement X10s to length from the front rather than the back.
 


Timid Toad

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X10s would usually be trimmed from the front. Trimming from the back gives extreme stiffness results.
 


AJBrady

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I don't use them so it probably was the other way round. It was certainly the opposite way round to his original 12.
 


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