I have just done a quick search for compound
bow tuning methods.
Static center shot
Camera tuning (never heard of that one!)
Walk back tuning
Bare shaft tuning
Micro tune draw length
micro tune nock point
micro tune stabilisers
I am sure there must be plenty more.
At some point in every archers life they will look to "Tuning their bow" in order to improve their performance/scores, forgetting the fact
archery is 95% archer and 5% equipment. It is far easier to spend time/money/effort in the chasing the perfect bow setup than spending time and effort in "Tuning" the archer.
Most archers soon get to a point where they do not seem to improve or don't get the scores they think they should be getting.
Unfortunately they quickly forget the basics.
They turn to tuning methods they may not fully understand, so they can blame an "Untuned bow" for their ails.
So, ignore the fact they cannot shoot a consistant group at 90m/100y, they tune the hell out of the bow, jumping from one method to another and in most cases undoing what they have already done.
BEFORE you undertake ANY tuning method make sure you can group reasonably well at least at 60yds where NO shot should be outside Red(7 ring ), otherwise you are chasing rainbows.
Once, and if your shots are more consistant then I would recommend starting with the static center shot using whatever method/device you desire (discussions about this on another thread on this forum).
I would say my method has proved (to me) that it is reliable and accurate to a level before micro tuning using the French tune method and cost NOTHING (but then I would say that wouldn't I ).
All/most of the other methods of tuning may be more suited to the TOP LEVEL archer where they have the experience to spot any positive OR NEGATIVE issues from adapting that particular tuning method (on top of the basic tuning described).
If you have static center shot sorted and a nocking point at or just above 90 deg to the string so the arrow is either horizontal or pointing downwards slightly ( I would suggest no more than 2 to 3mm max). Then any further tuning should wait until you are at a level where you could be picked for team GB and you would then be able to take advantage of the top level archers and coaches to get the best out of your equipment.
You can fine tune the nocking point if you wish at a later stage although I doubt you would gain much unless it was way out to start with.
UNLESS you are capable of shooting reasonably well, there is not much point in doing any of the tuning methods.
Instead tune the archer, get someone (Who knows what they are talking about) to look over your form, take video if necessary to enphasise the point.
Unfortunately, this requires the archer to take notice of what has been told/shown and THAT can be a whole new ball game.
We ALL think we are doing everything right and do NOT like being told otherwise, bite your tongue, accept what people are telling you and try and change your technique to suit.
I have seen so many archers who make the most basic of errors (YES! Me too!) such as not listening to the clicker.
The clicker goes off but they do NOT release, the drawing hand oscillates back and forth half a dozen times before they then perform a dead release.
Tell most archers they have a dead release and they will probably think you are talking rubbish.
The dead release also applies to a lot of compound
archers as well!
Show them via video, they can't hide from that.
Now I am sure there are archers on here who are saying what the **** do I know about anything?
Well, all the above is my opinion, take it how you will, frankly I don't care, you may have your own established method, if so, good for you.
If you are new to tuning you can take what I have said at face value or ignore it completely, thats up to you.
Get the static center shot somewhere near and leave the rest for later, while you get the archer tuned.
The problem with having so many different methods of tuning is that some will undo what you have already done and to me that can't be a good thing necessarily.
However you do it, whatever method/methods you choose, I wish you all well in your endeavours.
Good shooting and if someone who knows what they are talking about offers you advice at the field, at least have the curtesy to listen to them, especially if they can shoot better than you.