I hadn't thought to do that so I've just had a go and it's a slightly high right tear back at 1m.tell me, did you then go back to 1m and see if you still got that bullet hole? Because if you set your bow up to get a bullet hole AND THEN DO SOMETHING ELSE you'll stop getting that bullet hole because you've changed something. All you did was set your bow up to shoot them at 1m, and then set it up again to shoot them at 5m, and then set it up again to shoot them at longer distances. And as we're scored on how the fletched arrows group (a bareshaft isn't even allowed to be shot in a tournament, an arrow has to include fletchings) there is no need to worry about what a bareshaft does.
As someone else once wrote, "the ONLY paper tuning I'm worried about is the size of the group at 50m"... after all, it is the only thing you'll be scored on.
The point for me is that if I'm getting good arrow flight with a bareshaft at a reasonably long distance it follows that the fletched ones will be good too or better because they have steerage. Thus I know that it is the arrow flight that is good and not corrected arrow flight produced by a fletched arrow. It also means that my bareshafts and fletched are now landing together which is as it should be.
The times I've spent following the mantra of setting centre shot, setting the scope to be centred at close range then going back and adjusting the rest to compensate for left/right, back to the target to set scope again, back again to set rest to compensate etc etc etc ad infinitum and never getting my bare and fletched to land together, almost always suggesting too stiff a spine when I know it's right led me to try something else. It works for me and if it helps someone else so much the better.