Ok then, this an explanation of how stringwalking works for me.
I use three slightly different techniques, dependant on the distance I'm shooting.
At this point I should say I'm shooting a Gillo GT, Uukha UX100 38# limbs,
Easton ACE arrows (Easton X7's for 20 yard/18m), Zinper rest and it's weighted to around 3kg all in.
This setup has been tailored to give me point on at 80 yards with three under, as not everyone can can get this sort of distance three under it should be used as a guide only.
18 meters
with a crawl of around 40mm from bottom of knocking points and using X7's cut to 28.5" and 4" feathers, I sight so the top crest of the arrow lines up with the bottom crest of the gold (lolypoping), I look down the barrel of the shaft ignoring string blur.
My anchor is thumb under jaw, index finger on cheek bone, bass of thumb just touching my ear.
30 meters
with a crawl of around 25mm from bottom of knocking points and using ACE's cut to 28.5" and with standard plastisflech, I sight covering the gold (80cm target), I look down the barrel of the shaft ignoring string blur.
Same anchor as before.
50 meters
with a crawl of around 7mm from bottom of knocking points and using ACE's cut to 28.5" and with standard plastisflech, I sight covering the gold (122cm target. WA50), I now don't look down the barrel of the shaft, but just use the arrow point and string blur.
Same anchor as before.
80 yards
using three under touching the underside of the arrow knock and using ACE's cut to 28.5" and with standard plastisflech, I sight covering the gold (122cm target), using the arrow point and string blur.
Same anchor as before. But push to full extend of my bow arm to gain an extra 1" or so of draw.
100 yards
using Mediterranean grip (split finger) and using ACE's cut to 28.5" and with standard plastisflech, I sight covering the gold (122cm target), using the arrow point and string blur.
Same anchor as before. but
not pushing to full extend of my bow arm to gain an extra 1" or so of draw.
So when you hear OR shooters saying BB is easy, it may be for the beginners, but once you start pushing the distance and finding a way of getting point on is not straightforward.
little-else I hope you find this useful, or at least interesting.
Edit, the tiller is set dynamically using a protractor and a photo of me at full draw with a 50m crawl, it's retuned for indoors using the same method.
To do this you place the 90° line on the protractor along the line of the arrow, then adjust your tiller until both limb tips are on the baseline of the protractor.
There was a good writeup on this in the AGB magazine a couple of years ago (it can also help setup OR, or at least a baseline from where to start fine tuning).