Bow query

Simon27

New member
Apologies for the long post I am long winded and love bullet points

I have completed the usual archery course and have joined the local club. At this point I am aware of my own skill level and that I need to improve my technique somewhat but as the club bows are not the best and are used multiple times a week it ends up sights are changed etc so it isn't the same setup each week which isn't the best way of practicing in my opinion. In the long run I want to do longbow but I know that this is probably not going to be the best starter bow as it might hide any improvements I make or prevent me making them. I would also like to get a second bow of either a flatbow or field bow so that may be a better option. my reasoning for this is
  • I dont like all the accessories that olympic recurve has and I feel more comfortable with a more simple and natural shooting style
  • longbows can be less reliable so I would prefer a second bow I could pick up and shoot more easily e.g. you need to warm up a longbow before you shoot it
  • I dont want to buy a bow for a few months of practice and end up selling it for a loss which I believe would be the case if I got a starter recurve with stabilizer etc

My question is, what is the best option to buy? a flatbow or fieldbow or something else? I would love a https://www.merlinarchery.co.uk/win-win-black-rcx-wolf-recurve-bow.html but that is a big purchase to make at the moment and I dont know if a simple 1 piece recurve which would be much cheaper is just a better option

other things to note
  • I have been shooting various pistols and rifles for years so know better than most what my strengths and weaknesses are
  • I am above average height and strength so am not concerned about needing to work my way up the bow strengths
  • I will be doing target archery, bare bow I guess although there is an option to shoot field target as well
 


KidCurry

Active member
Apologies for the long post I am long winded and love bullet points
I have completed the usual archery course and have joined the local club. At this point I am aware of my own skill level and that I need to improve my technique somewhat but as the club bows are not the best and are used multiple times a week it ends up sights are changed etc
I would say the best route, as you will not bother with sights etc for barebow, is that of a club bow taking you up through the initial limb weights if possible is your best option. You will go up relatively quickly so if you go out and buy a flat bow you can shoot now, with relatively good form, you will out grow it in a few months. Wait until your draw weight levels out if you can.
If the club are limited on limb weights, as many are, you could get a cheap riser and buy the odd limb set as you go through the weights. Second hand ILF riser is usually a good bet. I just bought a Hoyt Nexus riser in immaculate condition for ?150.
The Win&Win bow you linked to is quite specialist for a beginner and I would wait for a while, especially as your preference seems to be longbow.
 


Corax67

Active member
Hello and welcome,

Although you are not comfortable shooting a full Olympic recurve setup, a recurve is by far the most flexible bow to begin with due to the interchangeability of the limbs.

If you want to shoot without a sight then use a recurve as a barebow, I do it a fair bit indoor during the winter and outdoor for club fun days and it works really well.

The issue with a flatbow is that there is no individual classification category for them so they get lumped in with barebow. Changing draw weights on such a bow means changing the bow so is less financially viable initially than the recurve option.

Not sure why you think longbows are less reliable - modern longbows from good bowyers will hold their own against any other unsighted bow in the hands of a competent archer. As for warming up then most of us string the bow and go through half a dozen draws gradually increasing from 1/4 to full stretch, not really a major bind as we are still set up & ready to go on the shooting line long before the recurve or compound shooters put an arrow in their quiver.

Don’t be fooled into thinking that physical strength is a magic pass to shooting heavy bows - it’s not. Yes you will probably be able to draw the bow but as countless archers will attest being overbowed will simply lead to poor groups and low scores as you struggle to achieve a consistent form. The key to all archery, whatever the bow style or discipline, is good form.

Start low poundage
Practice, practice, practice
Build draw weight steadily
Practice, practice, practice
Buy a longbow
Practice - have lots of fun - practice

:)



Karl
 


jonUK76

Member
Barebow target archery would normally lead you down the path of a full size ILF riser and limbs which is the most common type used for this discipline, as opposed to a field bow. So basically an "Olympic" bow less most of the accessories, although barebow specific risers (for example from Gillo, Spigarelli etc.) which have extra options for adding weight to the riser, are becoming more common. Certainly in any competitive target shooting, that is what everyone seems to use. Having said that if you particularly want to use a field bow or a flat bow, it's perfectly fine, and they are allowed in the barebow class, but a recurve will give you more flexibility - options to upgrade limbs as you improve etc.

I agree entirely with Corax67's comments about physical strength. Do not go too high on draw weight to start with - the chances are it will hinder your ability to learn good shooting form and ultimately your enjoyment of the sport.
 


Simon27

New member
Fantastic answers guys. I had no idea that flatbed would put you against anything bare bow that certainly makes a recurve a sensible option as if I can shoot it long term in competitions.Poundage wise I was thinking around 40 as that seems to be the advise I have seen so far.

I have been told by long bowers that they are more effected by the heat and humidity and that they are not as precise but personally I am not so sure especially by the last one of those
 


Corax67

Active member
Heat and humidity - yes

You don’t leave a longbow in the car in warm weather and most of us unstrung between distances at comps. I choose not to shoot mine at temperatures below 5 degrees but others in our club do.


Not as precise - hmmm.... compared to a compound you won’t get as many golds at 100yds but I’ve duffed up many a barebow and recurve archers scores with my trusty stick & string over the last few years.


40# is a lot of recurve - I’ve been shooting a fair few years and normally use only 36# limbs that comfortably get me to 100yds. My longbow is a 50# draw @ 28” to achieve the same distance but the draw cycle on both is very different.



Karl
 


olis

New member
Being naturally strong will not help you much in drawing a bow well. Many people stay in the mid thirties recurve as a compromise between good form and getting the arrow down the field. I would guess you are drawing more with your arms rather than your back particularly if you try a higher weight bow. A few months or more in the mid to high twenties really is a good idea, and after that try drawing wrong handed and you will see how difficult it is (which would not be the case if natural strength could do it for you).
 


chuffalump

Member
A few of my clubmates bought Samick Sages for a bit of barebow fun. Cheap and the limbs are available in lots of poundages. Only downside is that it's not ILF so you'd have to stick to the specific limbs.
 


Simon27

New member
Weirdly I found drawing from my back the natural way to do it but I suspect until I push it more it wont be obvious if I am doing it correctly. I definitely fancy something like a Sage but maybe it might be best to get a 2nd hand ilf bow with a site and sell that off at a later date.
 


LionOfNarnia

Supporter
Supporter
LOL if you sell off bows you're not a real archer - judging by the collections some people around here have ;)

I'm a big strong guy, former semi-pro sportsman & I started at 30lbs. Currently shooting 36lbs (after about a year) but have 40lb Core Hit (screw-on) limbs on my first bow just for strength/endurance training. When I'm totally comfortable with that weight, I'll get 44 or 46lb limbs for my ILF riser. Then use them for training. I won't be shooting with them until next spring. I doubt I'll ever go much higher than that!

Also bear in mind that indoors, at 20yds, a heavy bow will make arrows hard to get out of the targets.

There are NO extra points for the weight you can draw!

The only thing that counts is how well you shoot - that means good coaching, targeted training & lots & lots & lots of practice.
 


Simon27

New member
That is true for indoor lower poundage makes more sense. As for selling it depends more on what I can find to buy, if I can get something like a nice Hoyt (not sure why but I like the look of them more than anything) then it will probably stay for life but if I get something not as nice or that I dont get on with it makes sense to trade it for something else like a field bow etc that I would use more. My theory was to try and get a recurve of a similar power to a long bow (40 -50 pounds seems like the right amount for on e of those) so it was less of a change shooting the different bows at the different times of year etc but perhaps that was one of those idea s you have before you learn how little you actually know.
 


LionOfNarnia

Supporter
Supporter
Makes sense? With archers?

- Dude, you have a lot to learn ;)

Sounds like a good theory but as I'm sure more experienced guys will confirm, there's a huge difference between how recurves & field bows 'handle'.
 


chuffalump

Member
A recurve will throw an arrow more efficiently than an equivalent longbow. Equivalence can be a bit complicated though. Equal quality? length? Poundage?
 


Simon27

New member
Equal or similar draw weight I guess but that is probably not that relevant as I don’t think it is directly relatable
 


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