Clicker covering sight at 70 meters

PLEASE HELP TO FUND ARCHERY INTERCHANGE

MrSadowski

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Hi everyone, I'm from Italy and I'm tuning my bow for 70m for the first time. I use a TFT-G with 70-30 limbs at 30.5 (real poundage 35) and ACE 620 (with 120grains points).
I'm pretty confident with my indoor setup, with several <550 points during tournament and <560 during my practice at 18 meters. For the 70 meters tuning I started from my original setup with the walkback from 15 meters to 40 meters, bareshafts etc etc.
All good, but when I started shooting at 60 and then 70 meters, the sight was so low on the bar, that the clicker was just covering entirely my sight. We tried to adjust the plunger to move to the left the sight, I've tried stiffer arrows (ACE 570 with 100 grains points), but the problem was still there. Is this just my problem or anyone else had such a problem? How can I resolve it?
 

Timid Toad

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Hi. You don't say which sight you are using, but have you brought your sight in towards the bow? This will enable you to raise it up a little.
 

MrSadowski

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Hi! I use a Shibuya Ultima II. Yes of course: the bar normally at 18 meters is on the zero spot on the bar, and now for the 70 meters at the 9th spot on the bar
 

MrSadowski

New member
Yes, surely it's a possibility. But other people in my company shoot with the same poundage as me, and don't have the same problem with the clicker. Maybe I thought that could be a difference in aiming, or head position, or I don't know, because the central spot on the sight it's so close to the internal side of the riser
 

Timid Toad

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Where do you anchor, and what tab do you use? A platform tab can give better sightmarks because it increases the vertical distance between eye and arrow.
 

MrSadowski

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I anchor under the chin, with the string touching the center of my nose and the right tip of my chin. The tab is an Axcel Countour
 

Timid Toad

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Without seeing you shoot I've been through all my basic suggestions other than check the tiller, nocking point and tune of your bow. A careful bare shaft tune at 30m may show something that might make all the difference.
 

MrSadowski

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Yeah I understand it, thank you for the help, I will try to reverse my sight at first and then recheck the tuning at 30 meters to verify if something changed
 

inthemiddle

Active member
In an ideal tune the sight pin should be over the arrows centre shot. If this is not the case it's a bow tuning issue. Put the sight pin over the arrow and adjust the button pressure to get the arrows to hit where you aim.( if the button is really soft you have stiff arrows) If this fails either wind the bow up or wind it down. All of this assumes you have arrows that will tune within the poundage variation you have with your limbs. do all of this at a short distance before going to 70m
 
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MrSadowski

New member
The sight pin is right on the center shot, maybe a little bit on the right. for this reason when I shoot normally at 18 meters there is no problem, because the visual is free, but when shooting at 70 meters, the pin sight is much lower and the clicker enters in the angle of view.
 
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MrSadowski

New member
In an ideal tune the sight pin should be over the arrows centre shot. If this is not the case it's a bow tuning issue. Put the sight pin over the arrow and adjust the button pressure to get the arrows to hit where you aim.( if the button is really soft you have stiff arrows) If this fails either wind the bow up or wind it down. All of this assumes you have arrows that will tune within the poundage variation you have with your limbs. do all of this at a short distance before going to 70m
 

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MrSadowski

New member
In an ideal tune the sight pin should be over the arrows centre shot. If this is not the case it's a bow tuning issue. Put the sight pin over the arrow and adjust the button pressure to get the arrows to hit where you aim.( if the button is really soft you have stiff arrows) If this fails either wind the bow up or wind it down. All of this assumes you have arrows that will tune within the poundage variation you have with your limbs. do all of this at a short distance before going to 70m
The tuning at 18 meters was right: the bareshaft was perfect in the middle of other arrows, so the only problem is that lowering the pin sight at 70 meters the clicker gets in the way. How ccan I get rid of this problem? Is it a position problem or a tuning problem? (I shoot ACE 620, cut at 30", 120 points and 35 pounds on my limbs)
 

KidCurry

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If you use a metal bladed clicker could you not bend a dog leg in the part that contacts the arrow? 5mm dog leg may be enough.
 

bimble

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one way around this would be to use one of those clickers that attached to the sightblock and have a wire (they're usually magnetic, Cartel, Avalon, AAE all make them) that you can shape so it only comes into your view just above the arrow.
 

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geoffretired

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Kid Curry's suggestion would make the clicker look like the one in BImble's picture. It should work without needing to change to a sight mounted one.
 

Stretch

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Some people do struggle with sight marks and others do not but looking at this setup I struggle to see how 60m should be a problem even if your eye to anchor distance is short.

In my opinion you have far too much weight in the point. It will improve wind drift but if your sight position is that low it is not a good idea. In the good old days (1990s) recommended point weight for a 620 was about 80grains.

120gr to 80gr will stiffen the shaft - maybe too much - but might tell you what direction you need to go. Reducing brace height a little may also help keep the 80gr in tunable zone. Either a shorter 670 or longer 620 for example. But 40 gr of arrow weight is worth losing.

Have you tried something as simple as moving your centreshot out a little? Sometimes you can move centreshot position quite a lot without it changing tune.

I’ll assume that as the arrows stay in line there is no clearance problem.

Another option would be to retune around a different tiller setting. Limb tiller affects the way the bow sits at full draw which can also effect the launch height of the arrow - but it can be unpredictable so you may need to try more tiller or less tiller to see what works (and retune for each) - I’d probably try Even tiller (0mm) first and work from there. The downside of this route are that it affects your aiming so may need changes to stabilizer weights/config AND may have no benefit after all the testing.

After that you‘re looking at form changes to move string picture, correct hand position, correct bow cant or more technical solutions like adjust bow alignment - those are hard to recommend on the provided info.

Stretch
 
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