I have the tools to make tools. The "tailstock" is a 10mm bolt with the head rounded and drilled to 10mm, leaving a pointy recess, ideal for my XBusters and X 10's. Nocks, points, bare shafts and pins fit centred. It cuts really square, the arrow sits on the tape covered alloy angle, and you just rotate the shaft one revolution as the 60mm Diamond coated (thin) blade cuts through the arrow tube wall. I have trimmed 2 sets of X 10's and 15 X busters over the weekend. Now for some fletching!
Invest ?2.39 on ebay for a 60mm disc and mandrel. Thin cutting disc, no wear after 3 doz arrows, both ends cut on the X10's. It took 3 weeks to arrive from China, so I made the removable safety guard as I waited. I have had discs and even a wheel on a Best Arrow Saw blow up in my face. Wear goggles and a mask.
Plus 1 for the pipe cutter idea. Been using that on Ali arrows for years. Slow and steady is the trick, but you can do really accurate length cutting with a little practice. No good on carbon, or carbon wrapped, as they tend to splinter I've found. If your cutting X7's, XX75's, Jazz's etc, spot on!
I found that the pipe cutter pinched and rounded over the cut end a little. I am presently cutting carbon and carbon alloys so the saw works better, but it really is a case of use what you have. I made a block of wood with exact holes to the diameter of the arrow shaft and used a very fine flat not wavy junior hacksaw to cut my arrows a while ago. Held in the vice, this did a good job, but an arrow saw is faster and gives a better, finer square ended cut, and 36 shafts end up the same length with no measurements.
Would it help, to plug the end of the shaft so the cutter doesn't change the shape of the tube as it cuts? It would support the shaft on the inside ,too. Reduces the risk of internal splinters. I would mean cutting the shaft by going all round, not sawing straight across the end. That way the plug remains in one piece so it can be removed.
Only problem I have with Dremel cut off disks is they are so fragile! I broke one just by very gently brushing against it with my finger. Somewhere in this mess called house I have a Foredom tool which I'll start using when I find it.
That looks very nice. I've got a Dremel 3000 (with a flex shaft), which I have had the idea to do something similar...I just need a way to clamp it, move it in/out of position and keep it straight. Any ideas?
This is the first stage in my set up. It requires a plate to be made with a hole cut out for the threaded end of the handle. I have removed the collet and the threaded end cover. Once the plate is on, the cover is screwed on to hold the plate to the drill handle. The plate is used to clamp the drill in a vice.
If you are OK with making that plate, the other parts are simple enough.
I'm building my own with a Dremel, and use the same type of plate as geoffretired, mine's just a lot thinner. I addition I have and exhaust clamp (48mm) to go around the housing to secure it to a base plate. Now if I only could find the time to finish the damn thing.
Maybe a daft question... Has anyone tried spinning the shafts up against an abrasive cutting edge?
Mount the shaft in a normal drill, and present it to a fixed cutting edge. It sounds so obvious (though I can think of some complications) that I'm kind of surprised I can't find anything mentioning it as an approach.