If you want accuracy you should draw to your correct draw length, and adjust the equipment to suit you. As Fernbank Archer says short drawing is not good technique, and if you are planning on drawing to your ear to get more distance, that can work, but your accuracy will suffer.
So to answer your question better we need a bit more info.
When you say that you are shooting for distance, does that mean you're going for flight and just wanting to see how far you can get an arrow to fly, or that you're shooting clout and need to be reasonably accurate at 180 yards, or that you're increasing your target shooting distance and want to be accurate at a further distance than you're used to? (And if it's the last what sort of distance are you talking about?0
What technique are you using? Where do you anchor for instance, and how do you aim?
What equipment are you using? What bow, what string material, what arrows?
All of these things will have a big impact on the answer you get, and what is recommended.
For example when shooting field archery I use a 65lbs bow with 11/32" arrows bob tailed to 9/32" and 5" feathers with a 145grn pile. When shooting target I use a 45lbs bow with 5/16" arrows, also bob tailed but with a lighter pile and 4" feathers.
Both set ups give the same speed through a chronograph
For field I use a side of face anchor and get point on at 40m, with the point on the top of the boss at 50m.
For target I use an under chin anchor and aim with the point just below the boss at 100yds.
Both set ups shoot the same if I swap, so I can shoot my field set up in a target style and aim in the same place and vice versa, but I find that the heavier arrows with the big fletchings more forgiving, however the heavier bow is too much for a full 144 arrow round. I can get away with it for field because I'm shooting less arrows with more time between shots. For target I'll shoot the lighter set up, it's not as forgiving, but because there's less draw weight I can shoot a full 12 dozen without fatigue at the end of the shoot.