EASTON X7 1816`s

Ian

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I have acquired a set of 6 X7 1816`s and they must be old cos Easton do not show them on their spine chart.
They taper in at the nock end just before the swage unlike the modern X7`s that are the same diameter the whole length.
I don`t use swaged shafts normally as I prefer the Easton G nocks so not sure what size of tapered nocks to buy for them.
Anyone out their know the correct size of nock to buy, 5/16 or 1/4 are the nearest at a guess just by measuring the shaft?
I won`t be using them myself cos at 27.5" they are just a little too short for me but someone may need them in the future.
 

Stretch

Active member
I think it should be 1/4 and I think 9/32 will also be a good fit. If you can’t find an old Easton technical bulletin in PDF I can probably find one in my basement. They are likely the same as the Easton Jazz 1816. 5/16” will be too big I think.

Another option is to cut the swage off completely and use the correct size Beiter nock.... but do check Beiter still make them before cutting. Or do the same an use an 1816 size insert (if such a thing still exists) to use g nocks.

Good arrow the 1816 X7. Great at short distance and not bad further out either.

Stretch
 

Ian

Member
AIUK Saviour
Thanks Stretch,I have ordered some 1/4" from Merlin and will let you know if they fit.
I did think about cutting the swaged end off but was unsure of the internal diameter due to the reduction in circumference of the shaft just before the swage.
 

Stretch

Active member
Thanks Stretch,I have ordered some 1/4" from Merlin and will let you know if they fit.
I did think about cutting the swaged end off but was unsure of the internal diameter due to the reduction in circumference of the shaft just before the swage.
If cutting the swage off you remove the whole of the end including the taper so you end up with a parallel walled tube.

Stretch
 

Ian

Member
AIUK Saviour
That would have taken about an inch off of the shaft length so I went for the tapered nocks.
 

Ian

Member
AIUK Saviour
The 1/4" tapered nocks arrived this morning and seem to fit well.
They do not completely cover the silver of the swage,leaving a thin line of silver.
Also they seem to grip the swage tightly without being glued,is this ok or do they have to be glued?
 

dvd8n

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I always glue them.

Clean the swage but don't scrape at it. I just use my platinum plus fletching glue.
 
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dvd8n

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Just fyi, strictly you should do an embrittlement test by putting a dod of glue on a nock, letting it dry and then pressing it on a flat surface at 45 degrees to see if the nock has softened or embrittled.
 

dvd8n

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Oh, and don't forget to get the orientation right - you can't fix it later if it's glued...
 

Stretch

Active member
If you use a fletching glue that is not fast set/super glue/ cyanoacrylate it will be fine. So anything that is gloopy and takes a while to dry :oops: or that says “suitable for nocks/polycarbonates”.

Stretch
 
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dvd8n

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It's all a bit late now but I found this when looking for something else; it's from the 2018 Easton shaft selector and it suggests that you ought to have 9/32" nocks:

Screenshot from 2021-03-23 20-29-33.png

I imagine that the 1/4" nocks will be fine though.
 

Ian

Member
AIUK Saviour
Thanks for that,it`s probably right cos the 1/4`s don`t completely cover the silver of the swage.
 

Chil

Member
Do the larger nock sizes have a wider sting groove than the smaller nocks, or is the string groove a constant size.
 

Ian

Member
AIUK Saviour
The 1/4`s are too tight on my string that happily takes small groove Easton G nocks.
 

Stretch

Active member
Apologies for the bum steer, should have been 9/32”. Bum steer from a shop site that will not be named.

Easton catalogue has 9/32” for all 1816 Jazz, Tribute xx75 that take ye olde nock system.

Stretch
 
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