Epoxy glue points 2nd hand shafts.

snowman

Member
I have recently bought a couple of sets of 2nd hand Skyart arrows from a charity shop. Couldn't refuse at £10 for each set of 12. Believe these were targeted at ACG/ACE level when they were marketed. The shafts are in good condition but in need of refurbishing. Both sets are carbon wrapped aluminium core. There are no visible cracks at the points or splintering when flexed. One set was stripped down completely and rebuilt but the 2nd set seems to have the points stuck in with epoxy. I have noticed that they are a little variable (understatement) in quality in regards to fit of components such as nocks and points so can understand why the points were epoxied in. Lots of PTFE used for holding nocks in. I have seen a few threads on various forums and component fit seemed to be a big issue. If glued points are like the 1st set possibly looking at 50mm of epoxy. Can't cut them off as only 10mm longer than my usual arrow length. Looking for any suggestions how to remove the points. Tried gentle heat but no use.
 

dvd8n

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Advice always used to be to open up the back (remove the nock or whatever) then put a weight in of the right diameter (eg a drill bit) to fill the arrow shaft. Then swing the arrow to flick the weight from the back to the front, the idea being to hit the point at the back with the weight and hammer it out. But I've never tried this so I can't vouch for it working. And I can't vouch for the safety of your ornaments.
 

modernlongbow

Active member
Until it died, my antique draughtsman's alcohol burner was my favorite tool for removing epoxied in points. If you can't find one, then a butane torch ( not propane), set on low flame will do the job. Apply the flame to the point, not the flammable carbon shaft. Hold the shaft just behind the part of the point that's inserted in the shaft, that way your fingers will tell you you're applying too much heat.
 

malbro

Instinctive Archer
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What about using a heat gun instead of a naked flame?
I tried a heat gun but the glue was still firm when I decided the arrow was getting too hot, I have heard vinegar has an effect on epoxy but undecided if they mean epoxy that has set hard in situ. Might be worth removing the nock and pouring some down the inside of the shaft
 

garethochse

New member
I use epoxy to secure my points. Removing them takes longer (obviously) that if one uses hotmelt or superglue, but it's the same process: I turn on the gas stove and hold the arrow so that the point (not the carbon) gets heated by the flame. Do this for about a minute, then pull tip out with pliers. If it doesn't come out, you haven't heated it enough. I've had no problem with carbon damage, but I do this very carefully.
 

snowman

Member
Thanks for the different ideas. To keep everyone updated I have managed to get 4 points out up to now. Best method so far seems to be add small quantity acetone down the inside of shaft and leave to soak. Empty and allow to dry. Wrap arrow near the point with wet cloth. Heat point using induction hob then push out point with steel rod down inside of shaft. Induction hob only heats the steel point not aluminium shaft and gives even heat on whole length of point rather than localised heat at the end. Tried vinegar in an old alloy arrow but corrodes quickly due to electrolytic reaction between steel and aluminium.
 

KidCurry

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Wrap arrow near the point with wet cloth. Heat point using induction hob...
Wrapping the arrow is about the only way to stop the heat that breaks down the epoxy bond from breaking down the carbon epoxy bond for the carbon. Induction hob is a new I have not come across before but sounds a really useful tool :)
 

dvd8n

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Wrapping the arrow is about the only way to stop the heat that breaks down the epoxy bond from breaking down the carbon epoxy bond for the carbon. Induction hob is a new I have not come across before but sounds a really useful tool :)
Yeah. the epoxy glue is pretty much the same stuff that is holding the carbon strands in the shaft together, so weakening the glue without compromising the shaft is always going to be a challenge.
 

dvd8n

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Oh and I'm wishing that I had an induction hob to play with now...
 

albatross

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I don't know for certain but I don't imagine that the heat is directable precisely enough to not fry the carbon.
I use a heat gun on a low setting to remove and or insert points into carbon arrows without any ill effects.
 

snowman

Member
The final chapter in the saga is complete. I stopped after managing to remove 9 points out of 1 set of shafts. I cleaned the shafts, stuck on new wraps, re-fletched the arrows hot melt glued in the best fitting points I had. They had their 1st outing this morning. During the assembly the variation in dry fit of the points and nocks was the worst I have seen in a set of shafts. In the 1st four ends I had lost 4 points in the target. Looks like I am going to go round full circle and get out the Araldite. Think I should have used the same title of this thread as dvd8n and called this a pointless exercise. Can understand why they shafts didn't make a big impact on the market.
 

dvd8n

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Worst set of arrows that I ever had were Mybo Cadet allys (long story, needed cheap arrows, got what I paid for). The component fit was appalling. Some of the points rattled, some wouldn't fit into the shafts at all. Same with the nocks.

I mixed and matched components for best fit but still in the end had to chuck some of the points up in a hand drill and sand them to get them to fit in the shafts.

Then when they were finished they bent if you looked at them sternly.

I notice that Merlin doesn't sell them any more.
 

Rabid Hamster

Well-known member
Ironman
merlin went through a series of gaffs both kit and customer service based spread over several years. it was when they were expanding rapidly and I think they abandoned quality chasing volume. After they literally broke the sale of goods act then lied to me in the face of evidence on their own website, I swore I'd never use them again. (managed 4 years boycott and never recommended them to anyone) THEN HAD to use them for a spare part - the service was initially awful and then extremely good. gave them the benefit of doubt and seem to have been better recently
 
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