Fitting nocking points

Pablete

New member
Thanks for your time.
I’ve always thought that nocking points should barely touch the arrow’s nock, without pinching. It may be in theory or I am just wrong.
Here is my problem. If I adjust both nocking points gently embracing the nock, when I load the bow the arrow disengages from string and fall to the ground. At full draw the string‘s angel brings closer the nocks and displace the arrow out a little bit but it should’t be enough to completely disengage it.
If I move the top nocking points 2mm away I solve the problem so I think it is the actual nocking point the responsable for the disengaging. But then... well bye bye theory, the nocking points are not so close as they are supposed to be.
The other solution I came up to is lowering the profile of the nocking points using a thinner thread should help (use a BCY -3D with 0.017 instead the BCY nock point tying thread of 0.020 I do) I am shooting with large limbs at 28.5” draw length so the string’s angle is not a acute one.
What my mistake is?
How have you dealed with this?
I will appreciate your suggestions.

I attach a couple of photos to illustrate my problem. One at full draw, with the theoretically right nocking points, pinching and displacing the arrow. The second pictureis with the extra slack of 2 mm that solve the problem without loading the bow.
 

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Berny

Active member
i assume from your pic & description this is a problem specific to stringwalking on a short bow where the angle
can be extreme - perhaps you can tell us more about the bow's specification e.g. type, length; style of shooting;
max distance of hook (fingers, thumbs, device?) from nock point?

Don't stringwalkers often/usually use a single nock point? (to avoid this issue?)
 

KidCurry

Well-known member
AIUK Saviour
I found some nocks are worse than others. The best I have found so far are Beiter asymmetric pin nocks and Fivics pin nocks. Not keen on the Beiter because of the price but they never come off the string. Bohning smooth release always fell off. Easton were quite good but fell off if I came down and back up again. The Fivics seem to work well at almost half the Beiter price.
The best nocks seem to have a deeper grove and a clear and precise pinch point. I shoot the Fivics indoors, 20 yds, and string walk at least 2 inches.
I did try a smaller serving 0.014 to tie the nock points with but the nock tended to ride up over the serving after a while with the Beiters. Of course I may just have used too thin a serving. I still have a small gap between nock and serving as well, about 1mm.
The other interesting thing (well some might think) about the Beiter asymmetric nock is it needs a higher nocking point than straight nocks. Still looking at this.
One other thing, I do like to have a clean snap of the nock on the string. A gentle tap on the string with your finger will not disengage the arrow but a firm tap on the string will.
 
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geoffretired

Supporter
Supporter
When the thread is wrapped around the bow string, to produce the nocking point, the higher the profile on the string, the worse the problem of pinching off the nock becomes.
The wraps, around the bow string, only need to be sufficient to prevent the arrow nock from sliding past them.
 

Stretch

Active member
Right... but... surely the big gap is fine. Especially with string walking as the nock will always slide upwards to rest fairly consistently on the top nocking point?

It‘s different if using split finger because then tab and fingers can interfere (shouldn’t but can). Rick McKinney shot with just a top nocking point and he wasn’t bad.

Beiter say even for split finger there should be a bit of a gap (hence there is a bit of a gap in their nocking point). Personally I never needed to as my hook is very deep and there is not much angle in the string because of the hook and it’s easier not to.

2p

Stretch
 

Pablete

New member
Thanks you all. Appreciated.
It’s a Samick discovery 17” riser, with 30# Large Limbs, (62” bow) and 28” draw length. Nothing extreme.
I string walk so I don’t even touch the pin nocks.

Thanks for your suggestions.
It seems I have to deal with a gap. (The top nock is sort of useless)
I gonna try a lower nock’s profile with a thinner tread (0.016) in order to find the smaller gap needed.
Also give a shot to the Fivics pin nocks ( thanks Kidcurry for so many nuaces).
 
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