Helix - Stick on arrow rest position

rusty

New member
....first hole or second (counting from the face of the bow (nearest you)

Daft question, but picked up my new Helix today with plans to use a W&W stick on magnetic and found that in the usual first hole positioin, the back end of the rest protruded beyond the edge of the riser. This would occur on several other risers too.
However, in the second hole position, the front of the rest covers the clicker plate screw (not a problem, but not expected)
Which hole do you use ?
Thanks for your advice

R
 

buzz lite beer

Well-known member
Most commonly used is the one directly above the throat of the handle, perhaps you could trim the protruding metal plate if it's in the way. The further away hole is used to aid the tuning of over stiff arrows.
 

rusty

New member
Thanks - just what I thought, hence the question to fellow board members !
Maybe I might drop this keep it simple approach and go wrap around...
 

Stretch

Well-known member
Hole 1 as you measure it is the default hole. This is deliberately set back from the throat of the grip and is more inline with the actual pressure point for most archers. If you set your bow up around the second hole it should be OK but will weaken the shafts.

I'm using an ARE stick on with the plunger hole of the rest filed out a small amount so that it fits better on the riser (still hangs off .5mm!). I was initially a bit concerned about this but it doesn't seem to cause any probs.This also gives the arrow support point inline with the throat - which, according to the bow designer, is where you want it but YMMV.

The Beiter and Hoyt Super rest both fit fine - but they'll also kill you if you have any tuning issues. My arrows are about 1/2 spine stiff and I can't get good results with the Beiter. :thumbsdow

HTH

Stretch
 

emdrum

Member
I tried the Beiter rest only to discover that you need the Beiter button too. The Shibuya DX is too big for the hole in the rest to go through.

I returned it, rather than plash out on a button or start drilling holes.

Cheers,

Mike
 

Stretch

Well-known member
Thanks Stretch

Whiuch ARE do you use (and from where ?)
Thanks
The ARE I have was given to me as a sample many moons ago (1996 maybe) and is not quite the same as any of the currently made rests. The arm is a bit thinner.

I think it is closest to this one:

http://www.lancasterarchery.com/sho...=1987&osCsid=184dfa7415cf56f1bb7fc21bdb8db127

If replacing I'd want the stiffest arm I could get (1.05 or 1.10 pref) and as I shoot X10 all year I wouldn't bother with the adjustment:

http://www.lancasterarchery.com/sho...=1985&osCsid=184dfa7415cf56f1bb7fc21bdb8db127

Can also be ordered from Alt Services and Clickers seem to have them in stock:

http://www.clickersarchery.co.uk/online/shop/shop.php?cat1=Rests&cat2=Recurve&determin=1

They are a touch expensive but about the same price as a Beiter and in the overall scheme of things not too bad :cheerful: Also in use with the likes of Frangili etc

(Hope that doesn't look like advertising!)

HTH

Stretch
 

Whitehart

Well-known member
Hmmm, thought about that but even that might stick out a bit !
Why is that a problem with the generous cut way past centre you should have no problems with arrow clearance.

Why not consider a magnetic rest like the spigarelli it fits securely on the riser and you can adjust it for fat and thin arrows.
 

Rik

Supporter
Supporter
I tried the Beiter rest only to discover that you need the Beiter button too. The Shibuya DX is too big for the hole in the rest to go through.

I returned it, rather than plash out on a button or start drilling holes.
Well... The hole is the right size for a Shibuya (or any other button, for that matter. It's just there is a thin lip of plastic at one end of it, sized to the Beiter button. No problem to remove. Just a single turn of the right sized drill bit, by hand, and it's clear. Not even any danger of getting it wrong, as the hole acts as a guide...
 
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