Horizontal sight adjustment for disyance

Chopper46

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Hi Guys I have been shooting Olympic recurve for a couple of years. Lately when I change from indoor 18m to outdoor 70m I have had to do 7 full turns of my sight pin to get the shots centred. Assuming the sight is fitted and set up correctly and my form is consistant what else could be causing this? I have asked more experienced Archers at my club and was told it was the tune. But nothing more specific than that. Any and all help much appreciated, thanks in advance.
 

Timid Toad

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Yes, it sounds like you need to tune. Best done at 30m with a couple of bare shafts and probably the eye of a couple of club mates. Check the arrow's position over centre before you start, and make sure your brace height is consistent.
 

Chopper46

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Yes, it sounds like you need to tune. Best done at 30m with a couple of bare shafts and probably the eye of a couple of club mates. Check the arrow's position over centre before you start, and make sure your brace height is consistent.
Yes, it sounds like you need to tune. Best done at 30m with a couple of bare shafts and probably the eye of a couple of club mates. Check the arrow's position over centre before you start, and make sure your brace height is consistent.
Hi Timid Toad, thanks for the reply. I have bareshaft tuned and fletched and unfletched are grouping well. Brace height is checked and adjusted if needed before each session. When you say to "Check the arrow's position over centre" is that the same as centre shot? I have checked it but am not 100% happy it is correct as there seems to be two schools of thought on the required position. A lot of people say to have 3/4 of the point to the left of the string and Jake Kaminsky says to have it further out and have the right edge of the point touching the string. Any further thought would be appreciated. Thanks
 

bimble

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A lot of people say to have 3/4 of the point to the left of the string and Jake Kaminsky says to have it further out and have the right edge of the point touching the string. Any further thought would be appreciated. Thanks
For different people it will be different, there's isn't a "one-size-fits-all" setting that'll work. It all becomes the trial & error part of tuning in working out what is needed for you to shoot your best.
 

geoffretired

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Setting the arrow ( over centre)in relation to the string is also connected to the button stiffness. The two settings work together in a way to affect which direction the arrow follows in relation to the plane of the bow( or the direction you feel the bow is facing) compared to the gold.
 

Timid Toad

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It sounds like you may need to tweak over-centre a little in one direction or the other to see if you can reduce the left-right over distance changes.
 

dvd8n

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When I'm tuning I always get things as good as I can with bareshaft tuning then finish up with a walkback test and do final tweaks based on that, to avoid this sort of thing. With correctly spined arrows I've always been able to dial it out.
 

AndyS

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I'd second the walkback test for this sort of thing.
As part of your "sight setup correctly" have you checked that the vertical part of your sight (elevation bar?) is parallel to the string? if not, then the pin will be moving sideways as you move from your 18m mark to your 70m mark. I'd be surprised if that could account for 7 turns, but it might be contributing to the problem.
 

Chopper46

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I'd second the walkback test for this sort of thing.
As part of your "sight setup correctly" have you checked that the vertical part of your sight (elevation bar?) is parallel to the string? if not, then the pin will be moving sideways as you move from your 18m mark to your 70m mark. I'd be surprised if that could account for 7 turns, but it might be contributing to the problem.
Hi Andy yes that was my first thought. Checked it again this morning and it is perfect.
 

Rik

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One thing. Before you start your re-tuning...
Move the sight pin so it's more less in line. Then adjust button tension so that at 30m, or other short distance, the fletched shafts are hitting where you aim. Then go do your tuning, without moving the windage. The initial state can have an effect on which "tuned" combination you reach, so it's probably best to start as close to where you want to be as possible.
 
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