They shouldn't move. Once the string and the limbs are pressed up against them they should be set. It might make areas of tuning, such as tiller and brace height, different (I'm thinking tiller in this case) from what they were with the old bolts. I wouldn't write them off just yet.Maybe when you think about they should be, they are after all rigid with no moving parts. The floating ones obviously move and maybe create noise/vibration.
did you have to mod anything or is it a direct bolt on?I borrowed a pair and tried them out on an SF forged + riser. I had to improvise some locking bolts but limbs felt secure as there is always a flat surface pressing over a larger surface area rather than just the edge of a regular rigid bolt. Others at the club commented that the bow seemed a lot quieter than before. Unfortunately I had to return them but must get round to buying a set for myself.
Apologies for hi-jacking this, but would these Hoyt tiller bolts work on bows from other manufacturers? I like the idea of them (spreading the stress of the limb over the whole bolt head rather than just a particular edge), and wondered if they would work on my W&W Al1 for instance. Anyone tried this or should i forget it?