[English Longbow] Longbow: height of nocking point

Anglian Archer

New member
Hi,

I was browsing the FITA intermediate coaching manual for longbow (does anyone know who wrote this, btw?) and it said that a high nocking point could result in erratic arrow releases. Any tips on judging the best height for a nocking point?

Also, I understand that some archers prefer to nock their arrow below the nocking point rather than above it (assuming you have a single point and not a pair). Are there advantages to this?

Thanks
 

Berny

Active member
Nock point should be high enough so arrow clears your bow hand on loose so don't get feather burn or feather-in-the-finger-knuckle.
Handle wrap &/or arrow pass if present should indicate correct place for hand & hence arrow on hand & nock on string should be higher.
Exact height is part of your "bow tuning" along with brace-height & may 1/8" - to 1/4" or poss. higher depending on tiller of bow, style of bow,
presence of handle/wrap/arrow pass.

Single nocking point & nock under is simple gravity & rotational theory to stop arrow nock slipping up the string as it potentially
pivots about your knuckle under the weight of the pile. Tight nocks may prevent this at the expense of clean loose/departure of arrow
from string.

Hi,

I was browsing the FITA intermediate coaching manual for longbow (does anyone know who wrote this, btw?) and it said that a high nocking point could result in erratic arrow releases. Any tips on judging the best height for a nocking point?

Also, I understand that some archers prefer to nock their arrow below the nocking point rather than above it (assuming you have a single point and not a pair). Are there advantages to this?

Thanks
 

Simon Banks

Active member
Having just shot in a new longbow I just used a single dental floss nock until it settled in..
Through trail and error I got the right height that worked for me.. I don't get and feather burns or cuts now..

If heard using medical or PVC tape as a temporary nock is a good way of finding the right spot works well.. Personally I quite enjoy putting nocking points on and need the practice ;-)
 
D

Deleted member 7654

Guest
Of course, with a longbow a high bow hand can cause the same problem as a low nocking point.
The arrow flight isn't much of a problem unless the nocking point is absolutely miles out. the weight of the point and the flights are there to sort get the arrow flying straight. The archers paradox (The arrow having to flex round to get past the bow) is far more significant than a few mm up or down on the nocking point.
Del
 

Anglian Archer

New member
I was mooching round the Internet and came across some advice from Pip Bickerstaff on the subject. His opinion is that the nocking point should be at least 1/4" above horizontal, but no more than 1/2". He advises changing the nocking point at the first thing to try when faced with erratic arrows.

In contrast, Toxophilus advises a horizontal nocking.
 

Simon Banks

Active member
I was mooching round the Internet and came across some advice from Pip Bickerstaff on the subject. His opinion is that the nocking point should be at least 1/4" above horizontal, but no more than 1/2". He advises changing the nocking point at the first thing to try when faced with erratic arrows.

In contrast, Toxophilus advises a horizontal nocking.
Depends if your wearing a bow glove ;-)
 

BillM

Member
I have found that the nocking point on my longbow needs to be about 10mm above horizontal to get clearance and stop feathers hitting my hand - and yes, I wear a glove. In comparison, the nocking point on my recurve is 7mm.

BillM
 

Anglian Archer

New member
I've now repositioned the nocking point to 10mm above horizontal. It had been a little over 20mm.

Hopefully it will make a difference. I'm getting a bit tired of watching my arrows twirl about like shuttlecocks.
 

albatross

Supporter
Supporter
AIUK Saviour
I often read about the height of the nocking point and usually the author fails to state whether they are talking about the top of the bottom nock or the bottom of the top nock! I usually assume (which I should not do really) it is the top of the bottom nock.
 

Raven's_Eye

Active member
Ironman
I have my nocking point (top of the bottom nock) at about 1/8" (just over 4mm) above the horizontal.
 

Tech-50

New member
Old thread, but my tuppence-worth observation from a few years ago : when I shot with some new blue-dyed fletchings - after a while I noticed two dye witness-marks on the bow stave. When I lifted my (c. 3/8" above square) nocked arrow so that the shaft was equi-distant between the two witness marks, the arrow sat at 90° to the string. So....... I thought "aha! The pointy end of the arrow lifts on release and is perpendicular to the string as the arrow leaves and the fletchings pass the bow".

That 3/8" was a tad too high, and so I now position my nocking points so that - with the nocked-arrow at 90° to the string- the tip of my fletchings are level with, or perhaps 1mm clear of my bow hand knuckle. I don't use a glove and I never feel the arrow brush my hand ever. There will be an upper limit to how high that knock-point can be though - and it will be different for various arrow weight and bow-poundage/draw-length combinations - if it is placed too high then the arrow may not be able to lift sufficiently before it leaves the string, resulting in it being point-low on-release and perhaps a noticeable degree of 'porpoising' as it travels down-range.

In case I do cock something up though (perhaps by mis-nocking the arrow below my lower tied nocking thread?), I also put a small glob of PVA wood glue on the leading edge of all my fletchings. (It will clarify and shrink down as it dries so don't worry about it appearing to be 'too much'). That serves to smooth that leading edge and prevent any prospect of the fletching slicing into your hand. If you need to replace any of those fletchings then moisten the PVA glob (it will become misty again) and be soft enough to easily remove from the arrow shaft.

I use flo-green indexed arrow nocks & hot-melt glue to attach them (currently £2 for 32x sticks @Poundland in the UK, in case that link ever fails).
I also drill a 0.5mm hole between the pins into the nock-taper (using a precision 'Dremmel'-type tool) to allow air & glue to escape so that there is no pressurised air bubble under the nock throat and max wood-to-nock contact is made). If you smack one with a subsequent arrow, then they just shatter and ping off. When you come to replace those, if any bits are left adhering, then just stick the broken nock in a steaming kettle spout to soften the glue and pull them off.

The glues on many commercially made arrows (or if you use Cyano-Acrylate Ester 'superglues') bond the nock to the wood, and if you hit those, then you are likely to split the arrow as well.
 
I often read about the height of the nocking point and usually the author fails to state whether they are talking about the top of the bottom nock or the bottom of the top nock! I usually assume (which I should not do really) it is the top of the bottom nock.

I have one nock only, and nock the arrow below that.
 
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